Jean Enos Fashion Colletion Vogue Style Wear

Page numbers in italics refer to illustrations of the subject or, in the case of designers and photographers, of their designs or photographs. Arden, Elizabeth cosmetics, 129,135 art and design courses, 142,167, 223, 251,260 Art Deco influence, 70,84, 86 Augustabernard, 107 Austin Reed clothes, 117 Balenciaga, Cristobal, 121,147,191, 218,220 Central Saint Martins, London, 223, 251, 260, 264, 268, 280, 298 Chadwick, Luie M 80 Chanel, Gabrielle 'Coco 1900-24,11,27, 40-1 1925-49, 70, 73,89,122...

Picture credits

The publishers wish to thank the institutions and individuals who have kindly provided photographic materials for use in this book. In all cases, every effort has been made to contact the copyright holders, but should there be any errors or omissions the publishers would be pleased to insert the appropriate acknowledgement in any subsequent edition of this book. ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2006 pp. 18 right, 19, 20, 21,22 left, 30 left, 30 right, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 41, bottom, 45, 48,...

Further reading

Backmeyer, S ed ., Picture This The Artist as Illustrator, Central Saint Martins in association with The Herbert Press, London, 2005 Barnes, C., Fashion Illustration, Little, Brown, London, 1994 Borrelli, L., Fashion Illustration Next, Thames amp Hudson, London, 2004 Borrelli, L., Fashion Illustration Now, Thames amp Hudson, London, 2000 Braithwaite, B., Women's Magazines The First 300 Years, Peter Owen, London, 1995 Breward, C., Fashion, Oxford University Press, Oxford, 2003 Bryant, M W., WWD...

Steven Stipelman

Ilustrador Jason Brooks

'We were a generation of British youth who had lived our entire lives in the glow of pop culture, and had been through every teenage sartorial twist from the twist onward. We were innately versed in every nuance of every look and trend The past was a dressing-up box.' The story of fashion in the latter part of the twentieth century is hard to trace. It is characterized by the breakdown of the traditional couture industry by the immediacy of the response of the world's clothes manufacturing...

H A R Rods

Ernst Dryden

A Design in Four Colours for Cover of Catalogue Kees van Dongen, Poster for 'Les Arcades des Champs Elysees', 1927. Courtesy V amp A Images Victoria and Albert Museum. Kees van Dongen, a Dutch artist, became a French citizen in 1929. His work successively embraced several styles - Impressionism, Fauvism and Expressionism. His images of fashionable Parisian life capture le style moderne perfectly. George Wolfe Plank, Cover of American Vogue, February 1927. Colour lithograph. Courtesy The...

Top Hat Illustration

Leyendecker Kuppenheimer Ads

Marjac, 'Tennis Doubles', Monsieur, August 1921. Colour lithograph. Courtesy The Stapleton Collection. Rodier, a long-established textile manufacturer, teams white flannels with casual knitwear for tennis. Sportswear, much of which was made from knitted fabrics, was fast becoming part of mainstream fashion. Marjac, 'Pour Voyager', Monsieur, October 1921. Pochoir print. Courtesy The Stapleton Collection. A marvellously eclectic range of dandyish travelling clothes in tweeds and plaids by Rodier....

Dior Eric Illustration

Derniere Lettre Persane Fourrures Max

'Sandwiched between two world wars, between Poiret's harem and Dior's New Look, two women dominated the field of haute couture -Schiaparelli and Chanel.' Cecil Beaton, The Glass of Fashion, 1954 Ernst Dryden, Cycling couple, 1930. Courtesy Mary Evans Picture Library Dryden Collection. Ernst Dryden, Cycling couple, 1930. Courtesy Mary Evans Picture Library Dryden Collection. Cycling and hiking were among the sporting activities popular at this time - an open-necked, short-sleeved shirt is teamed...

Kuppenheimer

Helen Dryden

True style good fit splendid -wool quality expert craftsmanship the kind of clothes that help a man be as good looking as he ought to be, Easter or any other time. The HOUSE of KUPPENHEIMER. - Chicago J. C. Leyendecker, Advertisement for Kuppenheimer, Chicago, 1920s. Courtesy The Advertising Archives. A crisp, double-breasted, wool overcoat worn with a pale homburg hat and walking cane epitomize the dapper man about town. Helen Dryden, Original illustration for cover of American Vogue, 1922....

The Sunairevthe Speedaire

Christian Berard Mode

Combining them all in a fashion ruggedly masculine. Typically Jantzen in its permanent perfect fit, its seasonal style and color leadership, and in the truly marvelous elasticity of the JaRtzen-stitch. It really is easier to swim in a Jantzen. addition to the Sunaire and the Speedaire, both illustrated , there are many other smart models for men, women and children including the popular Shouldaire, men's and boys' Diving and Speed Suits, and Twosomes for men and women. You'll find the famous...

Burberrys

Collection New Look 1947 Willy Maywald

Anonymous, Advertisement for Burberrys, 1945. Courtesy The Advertising Archives. At the end of the war, the Government-issue 'demob suit had to suffice for many men, white those who could afford it returned to tailoring firms like Burberrys. Little has changed in terms of style between this example and suits worn before the war. Pcrfect complement for your suit or odd skirt full-sleeved shirt in soft wool. Note the new right-hand flap pocket. Black, blue, C A yellow, brown, royal, red. 6...

Kayser Bondor

Sir Magazine Rene Gruau

LINGERIE STOCKINGS BRASSIERES Andy Warhol, Bra and girdle, c.1958. Ink on Strathmore paper. Courtesy CORBIS. An early fashion illustration by Andy Warhol, demonstrating the importance of detail in lingerie advertisements. Despite the absence of a figure, the currently fashionable silhouette is indicated by the cone-shaped breasts of the bra and the stomach-flattening panty girdle. Ink and Dr Martin's aniline dye on Strathmore paper. Since the early 1900s, the car had been used in fashion...

L Pcrvc Motc

Egyptian Loin Skirt

Llano-Florenz, 'La Pervenche', Les Feuillets d'art, 1919 22. Pochoir print. Courtesy The Stapleton Collection. Les Feuillets d'art, a joint project between Lucien Vogel and Cond Nast, appeared intermittently between 1919 and 1922. Published in English and French, it covered literature and art, though many of its illustrators, such as Barbier, Lepape, Benito, and Benito's fellow Spaniard Llano-Florenz, worked in the fashion idiom. ABENDKLEIDER VON HERRMANN GERSON ZEICHNUNG VON A. OFFTERDINGER...

Breakfast At Tiffany S Classic Film Painting

Cristobal Balenciaga Officiel

'The kids looked really great, glittering and reflecting in vinyl, suede and feathers, in skirts and boots and bright-coloured mesh tights, and patent leather shoes, and silver and gold hip-riding mini skirts ' Andy Warhol, Popism The Warhol Sixties, 1980 Constance Wibaut, 'Mondrian' dress by Yves Saint Laurent, International Textiles, 1965 6. Private Collection. Constance Wibaut, 'Mondrian' dress by Yves Saint Laurent, International Textiles, 1965 6. Private Collection. Constance Wibaut...

Kenneth P

Robert Passantino Tarzan

JUNE 2 - 26 1999 SOCIETY of ILLUSTRATORS MUSEUM of AMERICAN ILLUSTRATION Kenneth Paul Block, Cover of catalogue for exhibition, 1999. Private Collection. Trained at Parsons School of Art and Design, New York, Kenneth Paul Block was the best known of the illustrators at WWD. His career spanned the period when fashion illustration was under threat and he is considered to be pivotal in its eventual survival. Michael Roberts, Azzedine AlaVa, 'Sphinx dress', for The Sunday Times, March 1990. Paper...

Claire Smalley Fashion Illustration

Rene Gruau Fashion Illustration

Ren Gruau, Original illustration, Capeline Yves Saint Laurent for Madame Figaro, 1986. Ink and watercolour. Courtesy Galerie Bartsch amp Chariau, Munich. The trend for glamorous dressing-up during the 1980s invested accessories, especially hats, with a new importance. Saint Laurent frames the head with a black halo. Ren Gruau, Original illustration of Christian Lacroix for cover of Madame Figaro, 1990. Ink and watercolour. Courtesy Galerie Bartsch amp Chariau, Munich. With only a few...

New Service Weatherproof

Burberry Service Safeguards

Combines to perfection the most distinctive qualities of a Burberry Safeguard double protection over vital areas, resistance to wet And cold, light-weight, self-ventilation, and durability. Collar can be worn open, closed to the throat, or turned up. The 1918 Burberry is made in proofed materials, which need uo rubber, oilcd-silk, or other non-Ventilating agent as an aid to their efficiency. Whilst allowing free circulation of air through the texture, it...

Bed jace

Women Wartime Working Shops

To look lovely while you 'look lively a a hip help lo good morale, forgowl looks and a high heart go together. Iteinemher, though Yardley beauty-things usually appear in wartime packing nowadays, they Hill have all the qualities you know anil trust. O r Lllft ift J. R'yf l.-J Rifill gt HOUCif rftwnn Laicaja ,r.J Ar.l violrt, U Xiini'.t to oWlil. U.I W T gt ' lt WMth To look lovely while you 'look lively a a hip help lo good morale, forgowl looks and a high heart go together. Iteinemher, though...

Dutch Illustrators

Jason Brooks Art

Tanya Ling, Original illustration of Boudicca, Spring Summer 2001 for Paper, December 2000. Mixed media on coloured paper. Artist's Collection. Boudicca, a label launched in 1997, has become known for its conceptual approach to precision tailoring. This illustration was featured on the back cover of a booklet for Paper magazine called 'A Fashion Odyssey'. Graham Rounthwaite, Advertisement for Off-Centre, 2000. Adobe Photoshop. Artist's Collection. Graham Rounthwaite, who studied graphics at...

List of illustrators

Page numbers in italics refer to illustrations. Alterio, Ruben, b.1949 Argentinian , 260,304-5 Arlet, Patrick, b.1947 French , 320-1 Ayton, Sylvia, b.1937 British , 229 Bakst, L on, 1866-1924 Russian , 9,9,18 Barbier, George, 1882-1932 French , 10,22,28,32, 60, 76 Barnes, Colin, 1934-1994 British , 260,268-9 Baxter, Glen, b.1944 British , 284-5 Beaton, Cecil, 1904-1980 British , 70,112-13 Benito, Eduardo, 1891-1961 Spanish , 46, 60, 71, 74-5 B rard, Christian, 1902-1949 French , 70, 71,122,152...

Les INES

The Shouldaire Bathing Suit

Leon Benigni, Plate from l emina, October 1930. CSM Archive. Grey and silver fox, and ermine, are featured in this illustration, softening the hard lines of the geometric background which utilizes typical Art Deco ziggurat motifs. Manteaux sont aussi Longs que vos Robes. Adroite, une merveilleuse cope d'hermine travaill e en long et dont le bns est l g rement en formo. Deux renards argent s sont plac s Poncolure avoc une somptueuse originalit . Le manteau de tissu, lui aussi, atteint la terre....

Coiffure pour le soir

Shoes Poiret

Charles Martin, 'Le Madras Jaune', Gazette du bon ton, January 1920. Pochoir print. CSM Archive. Martin combines the romantic appeal of distant shores with a totally modern interpretation. A silk turban for evening wear is inspired by those worn in Martinique. SOIERIES DE BlANCHINI-F RIER amp CIE Raoul Duty, Title page, 'Croquis de Modes', Gazette du bon ton, February 1920. CSM Archive. Duty's early career as an illustrator and textile designer began with Poiret in 1911. Shortly after, he...

Il A Ete Prime

Mesopotamia Clothing

Javier Goj , 'Il a Et Prim ', Gazette du bon ton, March 1914. Pochoir print. CSM Archive. A satin evening ensemble consisting of a tunic over a skirt pinned into place with a large cabochon. Goj was a Spanish artist who worked in Paris from 1900 and was a regular contributor to the Gazette. Robes de D uillefc, Beer, Martial et Armand, Beer, Gli ruifc Valentine Gross, 'Sa Lettre', Gazette du bon ton, 1915. CSM Archive. Valentine Gross Madame Jean Hugo was also known for her depictions of the...

Bouquet Tricolore

Costumes Jersey

Etienne Drian, 'Bouquet tricolore', Gazette du bon ton, 1915. Pochoir print. CSM Archive. Drian also illustrated for Femina, Les Feuillets d'art and Harper's Bazaar, and for Printemps department store, as well as designing interiors, stage sets and costumes. Modll . a. G.kn.U Ciimi j. Ijl W ,lt Anonymous, 'Costumes de Jersey' by Chanel, Les El gances Parisiennes, July 1916. Private Collection. Belted jumper-blouses pulled on over the head and worn over a blouse and skirt typify Chanel's...

Burberrys Haymarket London sw

Peignoirs 1920

Boulevard Maleiherbes, PARIS al o Provincial Agents Anonymous, Advertisement for Burberrys, London, c. 1918. Courtesy The Advertising Archives. As this advertisement stresses, the breathable qualities of Burberrys' products made them suitable for all climates. The polar explorers Amundsen, Scott and Shackieton all wore Burberrys' garments during their expeditions. Anonymous, Advertisement for Burberrys, London, 1918. Courtesy The Advertising Archives. Thomas Burberry developed the breathable...

Kuppenh ci mer

Paul Poiret Wife

Leyendecker, Advertisement for Kuppenheimer, 1910 20. Courtesy The Advertising Archives. J. C. Leyendecker, Advertisement for Kuppenheimer, 1910 20. Courtesy The Advertising Archives. Firms such as Kuppenheimer, a Chicago-based men's clothing manufacturer, recognized that an artist as gifted as Leyendecker could transform the fortunes of its business, as he had done for the Arrow Company. L on Bakst, Modem Dress, 'Dione', 1910. Pencil and watercolour. Courtesy The Bridgeman Art Library....

Illustration

Mode Illustree 1892

Dedicated to my Mother Jean Stuart-Williams 1920-2006 Copyright 2007 Centroi Scint Martins College of Art amp Design, University of the Arts, London. Published in 2007 by Laurence King Publishing in association with Central Saint Martins College of Art amp Design. This book has been produced by Central Saint Martins Book Creation, Southampton Row, London WC1B4AP, UK. Email enquiries laurenceking.co.Lik All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form...