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Eric Stemp (attr.), Advertisement for Simpson's, c.1975. Courtesy Daks/Simpson's Archive.

Smart sportswear for the golf course, utilizing both synthetic and natural fabrics. Stemp drew men equally as well as women.

Bl Simpson (Piccadilly) Ltd London Wl A 2AS 01-734 2002

Eric Stemp (attr.), Advertisement for Simpson's, c.1975. Courtesy Daks/Simpson's Archive.

The 'peacock revolution' was well under way by now. Although the clothes illustrated here are fairly conventional, they show the acceptance of coloured shirts and patterned ties for smart casual wear.

Color Tie Wear Blue Shirt

36. Fine quality batiste cotton shirt, block-striped in gold, navy, ultra pink, pale blue or lilac. £4.15.0.

37. Moire silk tic. Colour toned for each shirt. £2.15.0.

38. Sand coloured suede shoe, trimmed with metal. Micro-cellular soles. £7.10.0.

39. Simpson shirt in xoo",', superfine poplin. Bristol blue or melon. £4.15.0.

40. New larger shape silk tie. Black/red, navy/red, navy/sky. £3.5.0. 41. Strctch belt in black kangaroo leather. £3.15.0. 42. Black patent shoe with metal chain. £8.10.0.

Elisabeth Suter Illustrator

Elizabeth Suter, Paris collections, 1978. Ink and marker. Artist's Collection.

Elizabeth Suter was a freelance illustrator who covered the Paris collections four times a year and illustrated for numerous newspapers and magazines. She also taught at Central Saint Martins, London. Having received a formal art training, she always emphasized to her students the importance of drawing from a life model, clothed or unclothed.

Elizabeth Suter, Paris collections, 1978. Ink and marker. Artist's Collection.

As drawing was forbidden at the shows, Suter developed an extraordinary ability to remember detail and record it later.

Marker Art Techniques

Elizabeth Suter, Fashion Forecast, 1979. Mixed media. Artist's Collection.

Fabric trends and colours interpreted in Suter's customary dynamic style forecast winter fashion.

Eric Stemp, Clothes by Simpson's, Autumn 1978. Courtesy Museum of Costume, Both.

Pleated or cut on the bias, fuller skirts with lower hemlines are worn with blouson jackets.

Beryl Hartland, Illustration for the Daily Telegraph, mid-late 1970s. Artist's Collection.

Hartland had a long career as a fashion illustrator, mostly with the Telegraph newspaper group.

Steven Stipelman 1970s

Steven Stipelman, Original illustration tor Women's Wear Daily, 1978. Artist's Collection.

Stipelman, who worked at WWD for many years, was one of the illustrators given a byline, endorsing them as artists. Required not only to record actual garments, but also to interpret the mood of a moment, he explores here 'the seduction of a black dress', a fashion classic since Chanel's 'little black dress' of 1926.

Colin Barnes Illustrator

Colin Barnes, Pirelli Calendar Girl, late 1970s. Mixed media. Private Collection.

Colin Barnes illustrated for many top magazines, including Vogue, Elle, Cosmopolitan and GAP, until his untimely death in 1994. Like many Central Saint Martins' graduates, he returned there to teach.

Brocklehurst Colin Barnes Izzy

Colin Barnes, Izzy in Bruce Oldfield, 1980. Pencil and watercolour. CSM Archive.

Oldfield specializes in intricately cut glamorous dressing for the stars. Colin Barnes' forceful style always imbues his subjects with energy and dynamism.

1970s Catalogue Bloomingdales

Antonio Lopez, Original drawing for the Russia campaign for Bloomingdale's and the New York Times, 1980. Pencil on paper. Courtesy Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, Munich.

Utilizing a different style from his other work, Antonio packs his pencil drawing full of intense detail. Cossack costume has been an inspiration for a number of designers. In the 1970s Saint Laurent, for example, launched a collection based on Russian dress, as well as others that drew from Spanish, Moroccan, Chinese and gypsy dress. In addition to his Mondrian collection, he has also paid homage to Picasso, Braque and Cocteau, among others.

Illustrator Vogue

Antonio Lopez, 'Beouty'. Original illustration for American Vogue, 1980. Pencil, gouache and colour overlay film on paper. Courtesy Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, Munich.

Modelled by Leslie Lopez, now a well-known makeup artist, Antonio's illustration reflects the androgynous look typified by pop star Marilyn.

Pater Sato

Pater Sato, Drawing, c.1980. Private Collection.

Sato, a graduate of the Sensu Mode Seminar in Japan, was a successful Japanese illustrator in the 1980s and 1990s. In 1985 he coordinated Fashion Illustration in New York. Here, a Westernized model wears a fitted suit with a low decolletage filled with roses.

Drawings Traditional Dresses

Pater Sato, Drawing, c.1980. Private Collection.

In an unusual image, Sato combines traditional Japanese dress with a short, modern hairstyle.

Steven Stipelman Illustrator

Steven Stipelman, Cover for New York Collections issue of Women's Wear Daily, 1981. Artist's Collection.

Stipelman contrasts 'luxe' eveningwear with sporty day looks. The narrow silhouette of the skirt is balanced by widening shoulders.

Pater Sato

René Gruau, Yves Saint Laurent, Original drawing for French Vogue, September 1981. Gouache. Courtesy The Zahm Collection, Germany.

The 'pouf dress epitomized extravagant 1980s eveningwear. Gruau uses light and shade to great effect, demonstrating that in his seventies he is still a master of impact.

Brocklehurst

Jo Brocklehurst, Min and Val, 1982. Mixed media. Artist's Collection.

Jo Brocklehurst, who has been called 'the unofficial chronicler of club culture', found a rich source of models in the clubs she frequented. Provocative slogans, ripped clothing and dyed hair epitomize the 'in your face' look of the punk movement in her powerful drawing.

Brocklehurst

Jo Brocklehurst, Tony, 1982. Mixed media. Artist's Collection.

A group of squatters who lived opposite Jo Brocklehurst also became her models. Here, Tony wears a customized leather jacket and pink leopard-print leggings.

Men Knitwear Editorials

Beryl Hartland, Men's knitwear editorial for the Daily Telegraph, mid-1980s. Artist's Collection.

From the 1970s knitwear enjoyed a surge in popularity due to the interest in authentic handmade goods by individual craftsmen. The boom lasted until cheap Third World labour undercut costs in the late 1980s.

Womens Labour Wear Casual

Robert Melendez, Original illustration for Women's Wear Daily, 1980s. Charcoal on charcoal paper. Artist's Collection.

A chunky charm necklace and upswept hairstyle by Melendez. This drawing was used for the cover of a Bumble & Bumble exhibition catalogue in New York in 2006. Melendez was one of WWD's long-term staff illustrators.

Vivienne Westwood Punkature Collection

Shari Peacock, Vivienne Westwood Punkature collection, 1983. Watercolour. Private Collection.

Shari Peacock trained as an architect and went on to teach illustration at Central Saint Martins, London. Her semi-autobiographical novel, English as a Foreign Language, was published in Bulgaria in 1998, a year before her early death. Her loose, relaxed style complements Westwood's unstructured garments.

Shari Peacock

Shari Peacock, Vivienne Westwood Punkature collection, 1983. Watercolour. Private Collection.

From Spring 1983 Westwood began to show in Paris. One of the major conduits of street fashion to the catwalk, she fused many styles, including multilayered ethnic and historical influences, underwear as outerwear, workwear and subversive street style. Her approach remains influential.

Pater Sato

Antonio Lopez, Original illustration for cover of Vanity, No. 9,1983. Pencil, watercolour and gouache on paper. Courtesy Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, Munich.

A monumental head overwhelms two barely visible figures in Antonio's homage to Cubism. Maria Snyder, a jewellery designer, models a Cynzia Ruggieri design.

Illustration Antonio Lopez

Antonio Lopez, Capucci. Original illustration for Vanity, No. 7, 1983. Pencil and watercolour on paper. Courtesy Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, Munich.

Antonio brings his customary fresh approach to this illustration of Capucci's floating, serrated scarves in deep, vibrant colours.

Maria Snyder Jewellery Designer

"I'M or THE OP]JsnOJVT THAT WE SHOULD HAVE TAHEN THE SECOND LEFT OUT OF CASTLE DOUGLAS" GROWLED ¡JOYCE

Glen Baxter, 'Onward into Winter'. Original illustration tor British Vogue, December 1984. Pen and crayon. Artist's Collection.

Glen Baxter is well known for his humorous drawings with incongruous, witty captions. Fashion has always provided a rich source of material for caricature in publications such as Punch.

Glen Baxter Cartoon Images

AS RUNNER-UP JN THE ICE QUEEN CONTEST,EDNA WAS ABOUT TO ENSURE THAT THE WJJMJNJER RECEIVED HER PRIZE WJTWOUT DELAY

Glen Baxter, 'Onward into Winter'. Original illustration for British Vogue, December 1984. Pen and crayon. Artist's Collection.

Knitwear, tweeds and corduroy separates are given a nostalgic interpretation by Baxter, who exhibits internationally and has published numerous books of his cartoons, including such titles as The Impending Gleam and Loomings over the Suet.

Rapidograph Marker

Robert Passantino, Original illustration of sportswear for Women's Wear Daily, 1984. Rapidograph and marker on vellum. Artist's Collection.

The craze for aerobics and exercise increased in the 1980s, accelerating the absorption of sportswear into the fashionable wardrobe that had started in the late 19th century.

Robert Passantino

Robert Passantino, Original illustration of accessories for Women's Wear Daily, 1984. Rapidograph, airbrush and crayon on vellum. Artist's Collection.

A scarf, wide belt and hat are worn with a loose top in Passantino's illustration for a special accessories issue of WWD.

Pierre Tan Illustrations

Pierre Le Tan, Original illustration of hat by Stephen Jones for Madame Figaro, 1985. Ink and watercolour. Courtesy Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, Munich.

Pierre Le Tan has illustrated for most of the major fashion magazines, as well as for The New Yorker and the New York Times. He now concentrates on writing and illustrating books. The milliner Stephen Jones is closely associated with John Galliano at Dior.

Pierre Tan

Pierre Le Tan, Original illustration of hat by Chloé for

La Mode en peinture, 1982. Ink and watercolour. Courtesy Galerie

Bartsch & Chariau, Munich.

Producing luxury ready-to-wear, the House of Chloé has employed a succession of head designers, including Karl Lagerfeld, Martine Sitbon, Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo.

François Berthoud, Original illustration of Jean-Paul Gaultier for Vanity, 1986. Linocut and watercolour. Courtesy Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, Munich.

The angular pose and flat rendition of the figure, animal and floral motifs express the values of Gaultier's 1986 collection, inspired by Russian Constructivism.

Gaultier 1986

François Berthoud, Original illustration of Jean-Paul Gaultier for Vanity, 1986. Linocut and watercolour. Courtesy Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, Munich.

Gaultier, often described as the enfant terrible of Parisian couture, launched his first collection in 1976 and has gone on to explore a multitude of sources in his work.

Claire Smalley
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Responses

  • Ian Mercier
    Hi ... my name is Ian Mercier.<br /><br />I had no idea that Shari Peacock had passed away.<br /><br />I modelled for her for a number of years during the eighties.<br /><br />Please let me know where I can see her phenomenal illustrations.<br /><br />Regards,<br /><br />Ian
    5 years ago
  • Miles
    When i draw pater sato?
    6 years ago
  • kedija
    How to wear a striped blue shirt?
    5 years ago
  • Thomas
    What color tie to wear with a white shirt?
    5 years ago
  • Bruna
    Is steven stipelman still teaching?
    5 years ago

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