The Female Costume

British Female Costume

Of this reign was as splendid and fantastic the male. The parti-coloured dresses of the previous reigns were still in vogue, with numerous varieties of the cote-hardie, the waistcoat or spencerlike vest described in the last chapter, some of them probably Bohemian fashions introduced by 14 History of Chivalry, 2 vols. 8vo. London, 1825. Queen Anne.15 Gower, in his ' Confessio Amantis,' particularly alludes to the new guise of Berae, and describes, in the same poem, a route of ladies mounted on...

The Female Habit

Seems to have resembled to a very late period the dress in which Boadicea has been described by Dion Cassius a tunic or robe gathered and girdled round the waist, and a large mantle fastened by a brooch upon the breast. The former, called by Martin the arisad, appears from the poems of Alexander MacDonald to have been worn as late as 1740. Martin says it is a white plaid, having a few small stripes of black, blue, and red plaited all round, and fastened beneath the breast with a belt of leather...

Introduction To The First Edition

The true spirit of the times is in nothing more perceptible than in the tone given to our most trifling amusements. Information of some description must be blended with every recreation, to render it truly acceptable to the public. The most beautiful fictions are disregarded unless in some measure founded upon fact. Pure invention has been de-clared by Byron to be but the talent of a liar, and the novels of Sir Walter Scott owe their popularity as much to the learning as to the genius displayed...

Chapter L

Ancient British weapons of bone and flint. Fig. a, arrow-head of flint, in the Meyrick collection 5, another, engraved in Archseologia, vol. xt. pi. 2 c. d, lance-heads of bone, from a barrow on Upton Lovel Downs, Wiltshire, engraved in same plate e, spear-head of stone, in the Meyrick collection , battle-axe head of black stone, in ditto g, another, found in a barrow in Devonshire, and new in the same collection. Respecting the original colonists of Britain the more adventurous members of the...

The Military Costume

Was nearly that of the Civil Wars and the Commonwealth but armour was gradually falling into disuse. Vambraces were abandoned by harquebussiers in the first year of the Restoration and the helmet and corslet or cuirass, or the gorget alone, worn over a buff coat, formed the total defence of steel at this period worn by the officers. The arms, offensive and defensive, says the statute of the thirteenth and fourteenth of Charles II., are to be as follows the defensive arms of the cavalry a back,...

National Costume Of Scotland

Logan's work. No rational doubt can exist of the great antiquity of the national costume of Scotland that the chequered stuff which still forms it is the variously-coloured garment of the Gauls described by Diodorus, at one time the common habit of every Celtic tribe, but now abandoned by all their descendants except the hardy unsophisticated Gaelic mountaineer, is admitted, we believe, by every antiquary who has made public his opinion on the subject. But to...

Chapter

Different Seal Knights

Reigns of henrt ii., 1154-89 richard i., 1189-99 5 and john, 1199-1216. We have now arrived at a period when a new and most valuable source of information is opened for our assistance. The monumental effigies of the illustrious dead, sculptured in their habits as they lived, and in a style of art remarkable for so dark an age, many elaborately coloured and gilt, and all of the full size of the figure, take precedence of every other authority, until the paintings of Holbein and Vandyck appear to...

Ecclesiastical Costume

The figure of a bishop of this period represents him in a bonnet, slightly sinking in the centre, with the pendent ornaments of the mitre vittae or infulae attached to the side of it. The chasuble retains its original shape the dalmatica appears to be arched at the sides the pastoral staff is exceedingly plain, and reminds us strongly of the Roman lituus, which is said by some writers to have been its prototype. A Bishop of the close of the 11th century, Cotton MS. Nero, C. 4. A Bishop of the...

The Weapon8

Irish Glibbe

Used by the Irish in the bloody combats to which this unprovoked insult and aggression gave birth are thus described by Giraldus The Irish use three kinds of arms short lances and two darts, as also broad axes excellently well steeled, the use of which they borrowed from Norwegians and Ostmen. They make use of but one hand to the axe when they strike, and extend their thumb along the handle to guide the blow, from which neither the crested helmet can defend the head, nor the iron folds of the...

The Uniform Of The British Army

Dates from the commencement of the eighteenth century. Scarlet and blue had long been the two principal colours of the cloth ordered for the array of the king's troops, in accordance with the blazon of the royal standard the guide from the commencement of heraldry for the liveries of retainers and domestics having been the armorial bearings of their lord or leader. But the men-at-arms were, during the early periods of our history, covered with mail or plate, and of the lighter armed troops the...

Arms And Armour

Of the knights of the reign of Henry IV. we have no novelty to remark, except that the soleret or steel shoe was sometimes supplied by footed stirrups, and the jambs or leg-pieces in such cases terminated at the instep. Increase of splendour is however visible in the military equipment. A rich wreath or band surrounds the bascinet of the 5 Rymer's Feeders, vol. ix. Ibid., page 299. knight, and the border of the jupon is still cut into elegant foliage, notwithstanding the strict prohibition of...

The Military Equipment

Warwick Harness 15th Century Effigy

Of this period is remarkable for the introduction of Ashmole's Hist of the Order. the panache w the graceful decoration of feathers having been hitherto confined to heraldic crests upon helmets, and never appearing as a mere ornament in England till the reign of Henry V.lx its a, Tilting helmet of the commencement of the 15th centnry. with heraldic crest, from the Tomb of Sir Edward de Thorpe, Ashwelthorpe Church, Norfolk 6, Tilting helmet and shield from the tomb of Henry V., Westminster...

Chapter Viii

Balandrana Cloak

Effigy of Henry III. in Westminster Abbey. The long reign of Henry III. embraces the greater portion of the thirteenth century but its costume is more remarkable for increase of splendour than Effigy of Henry III. in Westminster Abbey. The long reign of Henry III. embraces the greater portion of the thirteenth century but its costume is more remarkable for increase of splendour than for alteration of form. Matthew Paris, the monk of St. Albatn's, a faithful...

Armour And Weapons

Henry With Pike Poly Olbion

James I. is stated to have remarked of armour, that it was an excellent invention, for it not only, saved the life of the wearer, but hindered him from doing hurt to any body else. The increasing use and improvements in fire-arms combined with other causes to bring it into disrepute and before the close of this reign the armour of the heaviest cavalry terminated at the knees. Henry, Prince of Wales, appears only armed to the waist in the following engraving, copied from Drayton's Polyol-bion....

Twelfth Century

The Irish wear thin woollen clothes, mostly black, because the sheep of Ireland are in general of that colour the dress itself is of a barbarous fashion. They wear moderate close-cowled or hooded mantles caputiis , which spread over their shoulders and reach down to the elbow, composed of small pieces of cloths of different kinds and colours, for the most part sewed together 8 beneath unsuspicious documents relative to the early history of Ireland. The book of Glen Daloch, popularly attributed...

Civil Costume

He was perhaps the greatest fop of the day. He had a coat estimated at thirty thousand marks, the value of which must have arisen chiefly from the quantity of precious stones with which it was embroidered 1 Chaucer's Canterbury Tales, however, furnishes us with some characteristic dresses, which we shall notice in regular rotation. this fashion obtaining greatly during the fourteenth century, as did that also of working letters and mottoes on the dress, and...

Go1 jgle

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