Chapter Xxxiii

Fashion Figures Proportion Template

FASHIONS OF THE PRESENT DAY (CONTINUED). The International Exhibition of 1878 Foreign countries Japanese fans The little lace-makers of Peniche Retrospective Exhibition of costume in France Considerations sur le vetement des femmes, by M. Charles Blanc Historical Exhibition at the Trocadero Comprehensive glance at the curiosities of that Exhibition The movement in 1879 Merveilleuse, Niniciie, and other bonnets Plush Gown-stuff at 100 francs the yard Scarfs, casaques, and various bodices Madras...

Chapter Xxvii

Sea-bathing and watering-places Special costumes Travelling-bags Hoods and woollen shawls Convenient style of dress Kid and satin boots high heels Introduction of the several and the Ristori w Expensive pocket-handkerchiefs Waists are worn shorter Zouave, Turkish, and Greek jackets Bonnet-fronts Gold trimmings universally used Tarlatane, tulle, and lace. Fashion does not assert itself only in the ordinary round of life. It frequently enlarges its domain in consequence of some new custom, or, at...

1

Clothes English Empire 1500

REIGNS OF LOUIS XI., CHARLES VIII., AND LOUIS XII. Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XI. La grand'gorre, or sumptuosity The troussoire Allegorical and moral costumes Trains Head-dresses Collets rebrass s Wigs and false hair Some results of the war in Italy Italian fashions Sollerets and slippers Gargets Garters Jean Marot writes against novelties-Anne of Brittany Pins Menot the golden-tongued A Parisian in the time of Louis XII. Coat l'Italienne Manufacture of stuffs. The Empire of Fashion...

I270 To 1350

Steven Stipelman Drawings

Severity of feminine costume Long gowns and guimjbes Marguerite of Provenee Fermaux Reappearance of splendour in dress Eastern customs The priests of fashion Haberdashery and peacoelc-feathers Female embroiderers Taste for embroidery Continual temptations Earliest sumptuary laws Furs St. Louis's opinion on dress Prohibitions by Philippe le Bel speech made by his wife Crepine. Owing to the influence of the Crusades and the predilections of St. Louis, the dress of women assumed much of that...

Reign Of Francis I

Fashion Illustration Egyptian

A speech of Charles V. The king's liberality Order of the Cordeliere Word-paintings of the fashions of the day, Ly Rabelais Costumes of the hoche-plis or vertugadin Mme. de Tressan saves her cousin's life Satires and songs Mdlle. de Lacepede Conte-nances Silk shoes with slashes Head-dress called a passe-filon Increase of love of dress The bean-flower Artistic head-dresses Twists of hair called ratraprenades Ferronieres Coaches in Paris their influence on the fashions....

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Byzantine Clothing

The art of flower-making has made some progress since 1738 and 1802, and it may be said that artificial flowers are indispensable to an elegant costume. The Empire was the period of toquets in embroidered tulle. Horace Vernet, the great painter, although very young in 1813, has portrayed Les Dames de Paris in the reign of the first Napoleon. Nothing seems to us more hideous than their hats and feathers, their sleeves tight to the wrist, and the embroidery on their gowns. Mme. de Stael's Corinne...

Chapter Ii

Byzantine Clothes For Women

Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the Franks Customs of the latter The Merovingians Costumes of skins and felt cloaks and camlets The coif, the veil, the skull-cap, the guimpe, the cape Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn themselves with flowers Various articles of dress The suint Young girls dress their hair without ornaments St. Rad gonde The hair of married women. The influence of political events on costume is more decisive than is generally supposed. Caesar's conquest of...

Reign Of Francis Ii

Byzantine Clothes For Women

The earliest queens of fashion Mary Stuart's costumes her jewels Description of bodices and sleeves of that period Crosses The loup or small mask Coiffure en raquette An anecdote concerning high heels Regulations respecting fashion Remark of a lady of our own day on distinctions in dress Exordium of the Edict of July 12,1549 Maximum of marriage portions The first knitted silk stockings. Women of celebrity exercise a great influence on dress in general and certain historical personages of the...

Fashions Of The Present

Byzantine Model Figures

Dinner, casino, and ball dresses in 1875 Importation of false hair Manufacture in France Modification of waterproofs Estelle bonnets Tunic aprons Cuirass bodices Montespan sleeves 1 'Saut-du-lit Shoes of past times Bonnes-femmes pockets Henri III. plumes Inez veils Ribbons and flowers Heavy style of dress Pouf petticoats Composite fashions of 1876 Armenian toques Ophelia bonnets Danichef bonnets Mdlle. Bettina Rothschild's wedding trousseau A splendid parasol Gondolier hair-nets 41 Baby sashes...

The Carlovingian Period

Reign of Charlemagne The women of the tenth eentury wear two tunics Judith's belt -A veil is obligatory Miniatures in the Mazarin Library Charles the Bald's Bible Shoes Dress of Queen Lutgarde Dress of Rotrude and Bertha Gisla and other kinswomen of the Emperor The successors of Charlemagne Cannes Adelaide of Vermandois The dress of widows. The reign of Charlemagne, and the passing away of the first race of our kings, to be succeeded by the second, made no essential difference as to dress. We...

Reign Of Henri Il

Goffered Headdress

The ruff A satirical print of the time Catherine de M dicis eats soup The Italian taste Regulations for dress Crimson Who shall wear silk Lines on velvet, by Ronsard Rotonde Collet mont Spring-water Style of gowns and head-dresses Wired sleeves Girdles Caps, bonnets, and hoods The touret de nez The coffin roupies Shoes A quotation from Rabelais. Th e taste for display had received an irresistible impulse dress was a fascinating pursuit, and one well adapted to our...

Introduction

Various definitions of fashion The grave side of its history Quotations from the poets-Character of Frenchwomen The refinement of their tastes and fancies Paris the temple of fashion The provinces Mile. Mars' yellow gown The causes of fashion A saying of Mine, de Girardin's A remark of Mrs. Trollope's The dress of actresses Earliest theories of fashion The Gynseceum of Amman First appearance of the Journal des Dames et des Modes Latnesangere Other publications An anecdote concerning dolls Plan...

La Poule D Inde En Falbala

Mesopotamia Clothing Palaces

Painted faces Reply of a Turkish ambassador Ineffectual criticism Mme. Turcaret's pretintailles Mme. Bonnet's law-suit Brocaded materials Andriennes Criardes Return of hoops arid paniers A sailor's leap Actresses'paniers, and the Greek head-dress Mme. de L tori res D'H le arrives frozen at the Caf Procope Waterproofs Finishing touches Fans and fan-makers in the seventeenth century What Mme. de Sta l-Holstein thought of fans Transition. The women of this district Versailles ' writes La Bruy re,...

Reigns Of Henri Iv And Louis Xiii

Destined Reign Images

Universal mourning on the death of the Guises intolerance of showy dress Vertugadins, espoitrement, corps espagnole Diversity of colours The pearls, jewels, and diamonds belonging to Gabrielle d'Estrees and to the queen Dress of Marguerite de France Low-cut bodices Head-dresses of hair Various styles -Venetian slippers Edicts of Louis XII. Caricatures Pompe funebre de la Mode Words and fashions Ribbons or galants Dress of widows Demi-ceint girdles Gloves of all sorts Patches Masks their use...

The Gallic And Galloroman Period

Unsupported Hypothesis

Gallic period Woad, or the pastel Tunics and boulgetes 1 Mavors and Palla- Cleanliness of the Gallic women The froth of beer or kourou The women of Marseilles their marriage-portions Gallo-Roman period 1The Roman garment The stola -Refinement of elegance Extravagant luxury of women Artificial aids A vestiaire or wardrobe-room of the period Shoes Jewels and ornaments The amber and crystal ball Influence of the barbarians. We learn with horror from ancient writers that certain women of Gaul were...

The Third Republic

Catogan Bow

The years 1870 and 1871 The siege of Paris General mourning Simplicity and economy Parisian velvet and pekin A concert costume A cloth costume Alsatian bows and costumes Soirees at the Presidency Marie Stuart and Michael Angelo bonnets Hunting stockings Rabagas hats The years 1872 and 1873 Fan parasols Leopold Robert bonnets The year 1873 Return of luxury -Regent belts and sovereign costumes The burning of the Opera House Sale on behalf of those maae orphans by the war -The ball for the Lyorki...

Reigns Of Louis Xviii And Charles X

Importation of foreign fashions in 1815 White dresses, white feathers, and fleurs de lys Emigrant ladies -Russian toques Male and female dressmakers Ruchings Short sleeves and long gloves Herbault's bonnets Chefs Anglomania in 1815 Green gauze veils spencers The canezou Lacroix, the stay-maker Dr. Pelletan and Charles X. -Wasps The Ourika fashions The famous leg-of-mutton sleeves Fashions a i'Ipsibo , au Trocadero, and la Dame Blanche Blonde caps and turbans Head-dresses Fashions la giraffe the...

What Is A Gros D Afrique Dress

Tricoloured stuffs of 1848 Girondin mantles Open gowns Summer dresses Kasawecks and their derivatives Beaver bonnets velvet bonnets, and satin or crape drawn bonnets Cloches, Cornelia, Moldavian, and Josephine cloaks mantles Isly green Opera cloaks Numerous styles of dressing the hair a la Marie Stuart, a la Valois, Leda, Proserpine, and Ceres Marquise parasols Jewellery Straw bonnets Orleans'' and armure Work reticule or bag Chines Pagoda sleeves Waistcoats basque bodices New and economical...

Reign Of Henri

Grotesque Medievil Costumes

Opposition to the laws of King Henri III. on dress The wife of President N-. How both sexes evaded the edicts -Gowns from Milan Mixture of masculine and feminine fashions Rage for perfumes Recognition of rank is demanded Costumes worn at Cognac by Marguerite de Valois in presence of the Polish ambassadors, and her costume at Blois Brantome's opinion Pointed bodices, puffed out sleeves, and bour-relets Remarks on hair Ridicutous dress of men- Poucet, the preacher Satiricat lines on Joyeuse Witty...

1848 Revolutions Fancy Dress

The Revolution of July, 1830 Fasnions in Louis Philippe's reign Microscopical bonnets, called bibis, cabriolets Variety of caps Fashions of the Middle Ages and of the Renaissance The stage Historic costumes Influence of Rachel, the actress Greek and Roman fashions Colours Various designations of materials Bedouin sleeves Bonnets and head-dresses Pamela bonnets Novel eccentricities Taglioni gowns, gathered k la Vierge, laced lt h la Niobe, amp c. 'The Sylvestrine Costumes to be worn on occasions...

Reign Of Louis

The Influence of Marie Antoinette on fashion Letter from Maila Theresa Leonard and Mdlle. Bei in Various styles of head-dresses 'Pouf The Journal de Paris Reign of Louis XVI Male and female hair-dressers Plumes Hair worn low The queen's puce -coloured gown shades of colour in dresses- -Oberkampf and the Jouy prints Expensive satins Trimmings, their great number and importance Gauze, blond, tulle, and ribbons Some kinds of shoes Venez-y-voir The Archduchess ribbons A dress worn at the opera. We...

Reigns Of Charles Vi And Charles

Costume Designer Ancient Egypt

Taste in dress becomes purer Heart-shaped head-coverings, the cornette, and the hennin in the reign of Charles VI. Husbands complain Preachers denounce Thomas Connecte declaims against the diabolic invention Brother Richard tries to reform it The hennin gains the victory Costume of Jeanne de Bourbon EscofTion An absurd figure Gravou re Isabeau de Bavi re Gorg aset s Tripes Splendour of the court Agnes Sorel Coiffe adourn e diamonds the carcan Walking-sticks. It is a curious fact, of more...

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Native American Loincloth

Crinolines, were ready to wear starched and flounced petticoats, less ungraceful indeed than horsehair, but extremely inconvenient. The essential point was to increase the size of the figure, to conceal thinness, and, above all, to go with the stream. Some very fashionable women invented a whaleboned skirt, not unlike a bee-hive. The largest circumference was round the hips, whence the rest of the dress fell in perpendicular lines. Others preferred hoops arranged like those on a barrel. The...

The French Republic

The year 1789 Masculine style of dress The double dress vanishes Caps la grande pr tresse, la pierrot, and la laiti re The pouf n bonnet - Paint and powder disappear Prediction by the Cabinet des Modes Anonymous caps Cap lt c la Charlotte Corday Trinkets la Bastille Mme. de Genlis' locket Cap la Bastille Federal uniforms Claims to equality in dress Reaction under the Directory Incroyables and merveilleuses Coiffures la victime and la Titus Blond wigs and black wigs The H tel Th lusson Which is...

Reign Of Louis Xv

Costume Louis

The Regency War is declared against paniers The Oratorian Duguet Opinion of the Journal de Verdun Various publications against paniers Lines by Voltaire Whale-fishery company Paragraph from the Journal de Barbier Mmes. Jaucourt, De Seine, Del isle, Clairon, and Hus Lines in praise of corsets New bodices Coloured prints are forbidden Perses or Persiennes Bagnolette Adjuncts of dress necklaces, ridicules, and poupottes Contents of a patch-box A sermon by Massillon Les mouches de Mas sillon, or...

Reign Of Napoleon

Louis Xvi Era Poor

Ready-made mantles Talmas, mousquetaires, and rotondes The Second Empire j reminiscences of the reign of Napoleon I. Marriage of Napoleon III. dress of the new empress her hair dressed by F lix Escalier court mantle and train Four kinds of dress Opera dress in 1853-4 Bodices la Vierge, Pompadour bodices, and Watteau bodices Skirt trimmings A new colour, Th ba Light tints Social and theatrical celebrities The Eugenie head-dress and Mainnier bands End of the first period of Imperial fashions....