Mariahilfer Strasse

This is a very busy shopping street, especially during the sales period. People are rushing up and down, hunting for bargains. We start our walk in a shopping centre < A young woman is staring at us. She has her arms behind her head. Her blonde hair is cut to the length of her chin and is slightly dishevelled. She is naked and is standing close to the show window, inside a boutique for young fashion. Her breasts are covered with a yellow poster saying -50 SALE. Two white bird's wings cover...

Favoriten Strasse

Customers who do not have much money to spend on their shopping frequent this street. When speaking of fashion design today, this is not the place we think about first. This street is not really a model for excellent retail design even during the year. Although similar shops exist in every city, we have never seen such an environment in books about retail design. But they probably make 323 Sch nberger (no year 17)*. This course book for window dressers was published before 1929 more money than...

Fifth Avenue

Whatever has been portrayed onstage is now seen as not the real thing at all but only a representation, one made benignly to provide vicarious involvement for the onlooker. (Indeed at curtain calls actors routinely maintain the costume they wore when the curtain came down, but now the costumes are worn by individuals who do not fill them characterologically but slackly severe as mere hangers, a hat off or a scarf missing, as though to make a point that nothing real is to be attributed to...

West 50th Street

There is a connection between the show window and art (theatre, painting, performance art ), fashion, design (shop design, window dressing, graphics ), architecture, and marketing (consumer research, merchandising ).438 In literal terms, our chapter is set in New York, because we associate a lot of our reading material with this place. We will, however, not enter into an art historic or design theoretic discussion here. We have not undertaken any visual research in New York, but we will use a...

Boulevard Haussmann

In his analysis of the fashion system, Roland Barthes did not take into account the visual representation of fashion -neither in the fashion magazine, nor in its spectacular representation in the show windows of fashion stores. The main body of his analysis only addresses fashion.270 But this is exactly the reason why the transition from one fashion to another and the transitional phase is not within his field of vision. The seasonal sale stages the not fashionable, in fact it confronts us with...

Mythology

A s a season, spring is both pure and mythical at once mythical, by virtue of the awakening of nature Fashion takes this awakening for its own, thus giving the readers, if not its buyers, the opportunity to participate annually in a myth that has come from the beginning of time spring Fashion, for the modern woman, is like what the Great Dyonysia or the Anthesteria were for the ancient Greeks.549 Roland Barthes related the advent of the spring collection to the myth of the awakening of nature....

Hamburg

For this reason fashion, which represents the variable and contrasting forms of life, has since then become much broader and more animated, and also because of the transformation in the immediate political life, for man requires an ephemeral tyrant the moment he has rid himself of the absolute and permanent one. The frequent change of fashion represents a tremendous subjugation of the individual and in that respect forms one of the essential complements of the increased social and political...

Fashion Cycle

The production of garments is linked to the seasons of nature. The change in seasons provide us with a natural explanation for the transition of special categories of clothing, which are adapted according to the weather conditions. Warmer or lighter fabrics are used for creating such garments. Even our language refers to the seasons, as we do not simply call a given piece of garment a jacket but mostly add the season for which the jacket has been designed. We say, for example, that we will wear...

My Magic Fashion

Thus religious or magical behaviour or thinking must not be set apart from the range of everyday purposive conduct, particularly since even the ends of the religious and magical actions are predominantly economic.617 Here, Max Weber gives us a preliminary idea about how magic action is rationally involved in contemporary life. So, the conclusion we draw from this quote is that both the production side as well as the consumption side probably use magic action for economic reasons. It is hard to...

East 2nd Street

Looking through the glass into the show window is really like looking at the stage - with this difference the actors, in art terms, are speaking plastics in motion, whereas the merchandise is a silent, static object.461 The show window is related to art, but also to theatre. Frederic Kiesler provides some examples in which he shows images of avantgarde stage settings of his day so that their artistic principles can be applied to the creation of backgrounds for the retail theatre.462 We will...

The Death of Fashion

In the beginning of this book, we asked how fashion dies. And we decided to choose the fashion show window in the moment of the death of fashion the seasonal sale of the past collection as our object of research in order to find it. This choice represents an emphasis on the aesthetic aspects of dramatisation, rather than on social or economic reasons for the death of a fashion collection. When we say death, we use the term in a metaphorical way in order to emphasise that the garments are no...

Avenue Montaigne

Traditional fashion labels have their boutiques in this street. There are not many shoppers walking around because most potential clients are either driven over by their chauffeurs or come by taxi. A famous hairdresser in this street employs an attendant who parks the cars for his clients. It is the peak of the retail pyramid, but even high fashion boutiques need as much traffic as the shopping streets. This is why some traditional couture houses changed their location to such streets. It will...

Paris

For fashion was never anything other than the parody of the motley cadaver, provocation of death through the woman, and bitter colloquy with decay whispered between shrill bursts of mechanical laughter. That is fashion. And that is why she changes so quickly she titillates death and is already something different, something new, as he casts about to crush her.234 We start our walk down Avenue des Champs Elysees from Place Charles De Gaulle, and cross over to the left side of the road because...

Bibliography

Aicher, Otl Die Welt als Entwurf Berlin Ernst amp Sohn, 1992 . Albus, Volker Borngr ber, Christian Design Bilanz. Neues deutsches Design der 80er Jahre in Objekten, Bildern, Daten undTexten Cologne DuMont, 1992 . Almhofer, Edith, Performance Art. Die Kunst zu leben Vienna Cologne Graz B hlau, 1986 . Anonymus Modische Enth llungen in Das Schaufenster, vol. 20, no. 7, July 1970 Passau Passavia, 1970 , pp. 10-11. Anonymus Restein Das Schaufenster. Monatshefte f r moderne Werbung, vol. 7, January...

Ritualisation

Ritualisation is now frequently the preferred term particularly for studies focusing on ritual in technologically advanced societies52 We will analyse the basic principles of ritualisation in the following subchapter. This is necessary to understand the performative dimension in the staging of the seasonal sales better. We will see that ritual theory provides fundamental insights into the 50 Example taken from Karmasin 1998 398-303 . This commercial is presented like a storyboard with text,...