Barry Kieselstein Cord

Awards Hollywood Radio and Television Society Award, 1965 Art Directors Club of New York Award, 1967 Illustrators Society of New York Award, 1969 Coty American Fashion Critics Award, Jewelry Design, 1979 Council of Fashion Designers of America, Excellence in Design, 1981 Coty American Fashion Critics Award, Excellence in Women's Wear Design, New York, 1984 I am not influenced by fashion, preferring to be an influencer, stated Barry Kieselstein-Cord, son of an architect and an illustrator, who...

Max Factor

Max Factor's career began in Russia, where he owned a hair-goods shop, served as a cosmetician to the royal court in Saint Petersburg, and worked as chief makeup artist for the Moscow Theatre. He came to the United States in 1904 and operated a beauty products concession at the Saint Louis World's Fair. Intrigued by the emerging motion picture industry, he moved to Los Angeles in 1908 and opened a store that sold theater cosmetics to stage actors. At that same time he founded Max Factor and...

Nolan Miller

Nolan Miller first became interested in fashion while watching his idols act in Saturday matinees as a boy in Texas. Miller's fascination with fash ion led him to Los Angeles, California, to attend the Choinard Art Institute. While in school, Miller worked in a Beverly Hills flower shop waiting to be discovered. Fortunately for Miller, the flower shop he worked in was patronized by television producer Aaron Spelling. Miller is most noted for the fashions he created for Spelling's 1980s...

Calvin Klein

November 19, 1942 Birthplace Bronx, New York Awards Coty American Fashion Critics Award, 1973, 1975, 1984 Bath Museum of Costume Dress of the Year, 1980 Council of Fashion Designers of America Award, 1993, 1999 Sex sells, and Calvin Klein knows it. Throughout his career he has created functional, mainstream clothing, but his true contribution to fashion has been his ability to capitalize on sensuality and sexuality in his marketing. By creating an image of provocative sexuality, he has been...

Hermes

Hermes Scarf Mexico

It is a legendary name among family businesses and is currently overseen with the same love and eye for impeccable quality by its fifth-generation chairman, Jean-Louis Dumas-Hermes. The saga began with beautifully handcrafted harnesses and saddles, made by founder Thierry and his son Emile-Charles, who catered to the wealthy carriage trade. When grandson Emile-Maurice saw that the invention of the automobile could mean extinction for the company, he expanded into travel accessories, silk...

Jean Charles de Castelbajac

November 28, 1949 Birthplace Casablanca, Morocco Awards Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris, 1978 Forum Design, Linz, Austria, 1980 Laforet Museum, Belgium, 1984 Castelbajac began designing for his mother's apparel manufacturing company, Ko and Co., when he was only eighteen. He introduced his first line for the company in 1968. Soon thereafter, he worked as a design assistant at Pierre d'Alby. After starting his own label in 1970, Castelbajac quickly became known for taking everyday materials,...

Benetton

The Benetton siblings, Luciano, Giuliana, Gilberto, and Carlo, grew up in a small town in postwar Italy with bombers flying overhead. While working at a fabric store in the 1960s, Luciano Benetton delivered, by bicycle, colorful sweaters hand knit by his sister, Giuliana, to local patrons. The unusual patterns and bright colors of Giuliana's designs were diametrically opposed to the traditional, muted English sweaters that were typically worn. The popularity of Giuliana's sweaters inspired...

Skechers

After graduating from beauty school, Robert Greenberg owned and operated several wig stores in the Boston area. Tired of the cold Boston winters, Greenberg left Boston for Los Angeles in 1978 where he opened a roller-skate rental shop. Sunny, warm California was the birthplace of the fitness craze that swept the United States in the late 1970s and early 1980s. People everywhere were becoming more health conscious, working out to Jane Fonda's tapes, jogging, and joining gyms, and Greenberg saw...

Adidas

The origins of Adidas date back to 1920 when Adolph (Adi) Dassler began a footwear business which specialized in manufacturing slippers. In 1924 his brother, Rudolph, joined the company then called Gebruder Das-sler Schufabrik. Soon the company expanded to produce football boots and track shoes. The brothers achieved recognition during the 1936 Berlin Olympic Games when Jesse Owens won four gold medals while wearing their shoes. The company weathered World War II but could not withstand a...

Jeanne Lanvin

Awards Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur, 1926 Officier de la Legion d'Honneur, 1938 De d'Or Award (Golden Thimble), 1990, 1991 Jeanne Lanvin entered the fashion business in 1890 by opening a millinery house. However, it would not be her headwear designs that would launch her career. In addition to designing headwear, Lanvin was designing charming, youthful garments for her daughter. These creations were noticed by other women, and in 1909 she converted her millinery business to a custom-made...

Marc Jacobs

Awards Perry Ellis Golden Thimble Award, 1984 Chester Weinberg Gold Thimble Award, 1984 Best Student of the Year, Parsons, 1984 Council of Fashion Designers of America, Perry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent, 1987 Council of Fashion Designers of America, Womenswear Designer of the Year, 1993 Council of Fashion Designers of America, Womenswear Designer of the Year, 1997 Women's Designer of the Year, VH1, 1998 Council of Fashion Designers of America, Accessory Designer of the Year, 1999 Marc...

Harold Fox With Jimmy Dale Orchestra

July 28, 1996 Birthplace Unknown The zoot suit is the most innovative men's garment of the twentieth century. Its knee-length jacket featured exaggerated padded shoulders, and the voluminous, high-waisted pants narrowed to a pegged ankle. When the zoot suit emerged during the 1940s, it was a radical departure from typical men's suits which had changed little in nearly a century. Although the origins of the zoot suit are unclear, several sources attribute the suit's invention to Harold C....

Ellen Tracy

Awards Dallas Fashion Award, 1986, 1987 There is no Ellen Tracy. The company, was founded in 1949 by Herbert Gallen to manufacture blouses for the junior market. Gallen, a veteran of the garment trade, invented the name Ellen Tracy, believing a woman's blouse manufacturer should be named after a woman. However, in 1962, Gallen hired the woman who would come to personify Ellen Tracy Linda Allard, a Kent State University fine arts graduate who came to New York City with 200 in her pocket to...

Sears Roebuck and Company

Richard Warren Sears, one of the pioneers of mail order, contributed to the fashion industry by introducing new strategies for marketing apparel. He entered into the mail order business in 1886 when he founded the R.W. Sears Watch Company in North Redwood, Minnesota. As the middleman between watchmakers and the railroad station managers who sold the watches, Sears concentrated on low profit margins, rapid turnover, and high volume. This strategy was successful because he supported it with...

GH Bass and Company

Bass is the largest seller of men's and women's casual shoes in the United States. When George Henry Bass started the company in 1876, he created a reputation which endured for more than a century. He constructed durable footwear in the finest shoemaking tradition. Among the devotees of craftsmanship was Charles Lindbergh, who wore Bass aviation boots on his first trans-Atlantic flight in 1927. The company had existed for sixty years before it introduced its signature style, the...

Gottex

Award Dallas Fashion Award for Swimwear, 1994 Gottex was created in 1956 by Armin and Leah Gottilieb, a family-owned business, originally based in Tel Aviv, Israel. The owners' daughters, Miriam and Judith, were involved in the business Miriam selected fabrics and acted as head designer, and her husband, Stephen Ruzow, was vice chairman. The Gottiliebs' other daughter, Judith, managed the company's operations. In the 1990s 80 percent of the company was purchased by Africa Israel, making them a...

Ralph Lauren Lifschitz

October 14, 1939 Birthplace Bronx, New York Awards Coty Award, 1970, 1973, 1974, 1976, 1977, 1981, 1984 Neiman Marcus Distinguished Service Award, 1971 American Printed Fabrics Council Tommy Award, 1971 Council of Fashion Designers of America Award, 1981 Coty Hall of Fame Award, 1981 Gentlemen's Quarterly Manstyle Award, 1982 Neckwear Association Special Achievement Award, 1985 Retailer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, 1987, 1992 Council of Fashion Designers of...

The Limited

The Limited was the biggest success story in the history of retailing. Throughout the 1980s, The Limited grew at an unprecedented rate. Sales rates and stockholder equity climbed at a rate of 46 percent per year, with earnings increasing 63 percent annually. In 1984 The Limited sold over 200 million garments, which averages out to three for every woman between the ages of fifteen and fifty-five. By 1985 The Limited controlled 5 percent of the 50 billion per year women's clothing business. So...

Cartier

Almost from the moment Louis-Francois Cartier took over the shop of his former employer in 1847, he attracted prosperous clients by selling jewelry and art objects which he purchased from numerous manufacturers. He opened several more locations over the years, but the Cartier name became even better known when, in 1899, son Alfred and grandson Louis opened a new shop at 13 Rue de la Paix in Paris, which was, at that time, the heart of the haute couture and jewelry district. Louis, in fact,...

Edith Head

Birthplace San Bernardino, California Awards Academy Award for Costume Design The Heiress 1949 , All About Eve 1950 , Samson and Delilah 1950 , A Place in the Sun 1951 , Roman Holiday 1953 , Sabrtna 1954 , The Facts of Life 1960 The Sting, 1973 Motion Picture and Television Fund, Tribute to Edith Head, 1998 From 1938 to 1967, Edith Head ruled at Paramount Studios, working on more than 1,000 movies, winning eight Academy Awards, and being nominated thirty-five times. She is Hollywood's most...

Nina Mari Nielli Ricci

November 29, 1970 Birthplace Turin, Italy Awards Fragrance Foundation Hall of Fame Award, 1982 De d'Or Award Golden Thimble , 1987 Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur, Bijorca d'Or Award, 1987, 1988 Fragrance Foundation Perennial Success Award, 1988 Venus de la Beaute, 1990 Trophee International Pardum Couture, 1991 Prix d'Excellence Creativitie, 1992 Trophee de la Beaut de D pische Mode, 1992 Prix Europeen de la P.L.V., 1992 L'Oscar du Mecenat d'Entreprises, 1993 Nina Ricci, born Maria Nielli...

Jantzen

Awards Woolknit Award for Men's Sweater Design six times Jantzen, Inc. evolved from the Portland Knitting Mills, located in Portland, Oregon, a company owned by John A. Zehntbauer, Roy C. Zehntbauer, and Carl C. Jantzen. The mill produced knit items such as sweaters, socks, and gloves which were retailed out of the factory. In 1913 Jantzen, the mills knitwear designer, experimented with a sweater cuff machine and invented the first rib-stitched swimsuit. Jantzen's new invention provided...

Thierry Mugler

Birthplace Strasbourg, Alsace, France Thierry Mugler's early training was in the fine arts he was a member of the Rhine Opera Ballet from 1965 to 1966, and he attended the Strasbourg School of Fine Arts from 1966 to 1967. At the age of twenty, Mugler moved to Paris to pursue a career in the fashion industry. He worked as an assistant designer for the Gudule boutique in 1968, as a designer for Andre Peters in London in 1969, and freelanced for several houses in Paris and Milan between 1970 and...

Michael Kors Karl Anderson

Awards Dupont's American Original Award, 1981 Council of Fashion Designers of America Womenswear Designer of the Year, 1999 Michael Kors designs great American sportswear. He began his professional career in 1978 as a salesperson designer at Lothar's, a once famous New York boutique. Recognizing the value of the hands-on training he was enjoying there, he left Fashion Institute of Technology after one semester, preferring to spend more time at Lothar's, sketching outfits and having samples made...

Paquin

Birthplace Unknown Award Legion d'Honneur, 1913 Madame Paquin was the first important female couturier, but very little is known about her personal life. Even her first name has been lost to history. After training at Maison Rouff, she founded her house in Paris in 1891. Her husband served as administrator, financier, and supporter to Madame Paquin. This arrangement was unusual, because at the time men usually did the designing and their wives served as inspiration and models. Since men...

Joan and David

Awards American Fashion Critics Coty Award, 1978 Footwear New Designer of the Year Award, 1986 Cutty Sark Award, 1986 Fashion Footwear Association of New York Award, 1990 Michelangelo Award, 1993 Women's Achievement Award Girl Scout Council of Greater New York, 1995 Financial Women's Association Entrepreneurial Award, 1996 The Michael Awards for the Fashion Industry First Award for Footwear Design, 1996 The Athena Award, Hunter College, New York, 1997 The Shattered Ceiling Award, Atlanta...

Nicole Miller

Girl Scouts of America Award, New York, 1994 Nicole Miller's practical yet fun design philosophy has made her remarkably successful. Some of Miller's inspirations stem from her childhood. Her father, an engineer, fascinated Miller with his interesting gadgets, while her mother sparked her interest with French fashion magazines. After high school, Miller attended the Rhode Island School of Design in Providence. During her sophomore year, she had the opportunity to travel abroad to Paris where...

Charles Wilson Brega James

September 23, 1978 Birthplace Sandhurst, England Awards Coty American Fashion Critics Award, 1950, 1954 Neiman Marcus Award, Dallas, 1953 Woolens and Worsteds of America Industry Award, 1962 The Genius of Charles James, Brooklyn Museum and Art Institute of Chicago, 1982-1983 Charles James, Architect of Fashion, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, 1993 Charles James's designs can be described as a seamless union of art, architecture, engineering, and fashion. Although...

Christian Lacroix

May 16, 1951 Birthplace Arles, France Awards De d'Or Award Golden Thimble , 1986, 1988 Council of Fashion Designers of America Award, 1987 Christian Marie Marc Lacroix never intended to be a fashion designer. He studied art history at Paul Valery University, in Montpellier, and museum studies at the Sorbonne, in Paris, from 1973 to 1976 where he wrote his dissertation on seventeenth-century costume. However, his love of costume drew Lacroix into the world of fashion instead of museum...

Karl Lagerfeld

Awards Second Prize, International Wool Secretariat Design, 1954 Neiman Marcus Award, 1980 Bath Costume Dress of the Year Award, 1981 Golden Thimble Award De d'Or , 1986 Council of Fashion Designers of America Award, 1991 Fashion Footwear of America Award, 1991 He has been referred to as Kaiser Karl, the Don Corleone of the fashion industry. He seldom appears without a fan in one hand and a Diet Coke in the other, always with his dark glasses, signature pony tail, and white powdered hair. He...

Norman Norell

October 25, 1972 Awards Neiman Marcus Award, Dallas, Texas, 1942 Coty American Fashion Critics Award, 1943, 1951, 1956, 1958, 1966 Parsons Medal for Distinguished Achievement, 1956 Honorary Doctor of Fine Arts, Pratt Institute, 1962 Sunday Times International Fashion Award, London, 1966 City of New York Bronze Medallion, 1972 Norman Norell, known in his earlier years as Norman David Levinson, was raised by his parents, Harry and Nettie Levinson, who owned a men's hat store....

Zandra Rhodes

September 19, 1940 Birthplace Chatham, Kent, England Awards Designer of the Year, English Trade Fashion, 1972 Royal Designer Industry, Royal Society of Arts, 1977 Fellow of the Society of Industrial Arts, 1978 Moore College of Art Award, Philadelphia, 1978 Emmy Award, Best Costumes, Romeo and Juliet on Ice, 1979 British Designer, Clothing and Export Council and National Economic Development Committee, 1983 Women of Distinction Award, Northwood Institute, Dallas, 1986 Number One Textile...

Jean Paul Gaultier

Even in his forties Jean-Paul Gaultier was described as an enfant terrible, a moniker he earned when his began his fashion career in the 1970s. As a designer he embraced an unconventional sense of gender and sensuality. He revised the feminine ideal to include the qualities of strength, power, and authority. To the stereotype of masculinity he added the ideas of sensuality, femininity, and narcissism. This gender redefinition in his designs has become the most enduring characteristic of his...

Pauline Trigere

Suits Silhouettes

November 4, 1912 Birthplace Paris, France Awards Coty American Fashion Critics Award, 1949, 1951, 1959 Neiman Marcus Award, Dallas, 1950 National Cotton Council of America Award, 1951 Filene Award, Boston, 1959 Silver Medal, City of Paris, 1972 Trigere was born in Paris, France, to Julles Ferry, a dressmaker, and Victor Hugo, a skilled technician and wholesale clothing contractor. Her mother introduced Trigere to the world of marketing and design. Her first official training took place at...

Kenneth Cole Productions

Kenneth Cole was born and raised in Brooklyn, New York, where he was exposed to shoemaking by his father whose El Greco ladies shoe manufacturing business produced Candies shoes. At twenty-two Cole realized he wanted to venture in the world of law rather than shoes and planned to attend New York University of Law but decided to delay his decision when an important employee of his father's company left. The vacant position in his father's business gave Cole the opportunity to sketch his own shoe...

Elsa Schiaparelli

November 14, 1973 Awards Neiman Marcus Award, 1940 Hommage a Elsa Schiaparelli, Pavillion des Arts, Paris, 1984 Fashion and Surrealism, Fashion Institute of Technology, and Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 1987-1988 Schiapperelli experimented with art and wit to create outrageously fun clothes which captured the fascination with fantasy of the 1930s. This adventurous designer revised the idea of chic for the modern woman. To her, designing was not a job, it was an...

Willi Smith

April 17, 1987 Birthplace Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Awards iInternational Mannequins Designer of the Year, 1978 Coty American Fashion Critics Award, 1983 When Willi Donnell Smith died, at age thirty-nine, a New York Daily News fashion writer called him the most successful black designer in fashion history Martin, p. 383 . However, as Richard Martin pointed out in a biographical sketch of Smith, there were countless fans of his sportswear style who may never have known...

Bugle

Mow Chao Wei came to the United States in 1949 when he was thirteen. His family fled Shanghai just before the city fell to Communist rule. They settled in New York City, and he became William C. Mow. In 1967 Mow completed his doctorate in electrical engineering at Purdue University, and two years later he founded Macrodata, a company which developed and tested computer microchip technologies. Mow's successful venture captured the attention of investors, and Mow sold control of his company to a...

Body Glove International

Award Diving Hall of Fame and the Pioneers of Surfing, 1990 Body Glove was founded by identical twins Bob and Bill Miestrell. The brothers were born in Missouri, two of seven children. Both boys loved the water and were taught to swim by their older brother, Joe, a local lifeguard. By the time the boys were fourteen, they had become avid swimmers and explorers and soon became interested in deep-sea diving. They were obsessed with creating a diving helmet to be used for exploring the local...

Jockey International

Jockey International is one of the leading men's underwear brands in the United States, the United Kingdom, Australia, Germany, the Phillippines, and South Africa. The company's products are sold in more than 120 countries throughout the world. Jockey, which originated as S.T. Cooper and Sons, a hosiery company in Saint Joseph, Michigan, was founded in 1876 by Samuel T. Cooper who wanted to improve the comfort of the socks worn by lumberjacks. Shortly after Cooper's death in 1893, his sons...

Glossary

Bridge A price category that bridges the price point gap between designer collections and better fashions in men's and women's apparel. Designer The price category for high-fashion collections with limited production and distribution. These collections are often referred to as signature collections. Direct Mail A form of retail sales where materials such as catalogues or letters are mailed directly to individual customers. Fad A short-lived fashion which is rapidly adopted and then quickly...

Alexander Julian

Birthplace Chapel Hill, North Carolina Awards Coty American Fashion Critics Award, 1977, 1979, 1980, 1983, 1984 Cutty Sark Award 1980, 1985, 1988 Cutty Sark Achievement Award, 1988 Men's Woolknit Design Award, 1981 Council of Fashion Designers of America Award, 1982 Major Collection, Pinnacle Design Achievement Award, 1998 Forrest L. Dimmick Award for Excellence in Color Marketing, Color Marketing Group, 1998 Alexander Julian's interest in fashion peaked at any early age. As a child he was...

Donna Karan

Awards Coty American Fashion Critics Winnie, 1977, 1981, 1984, 1985 CFDA, Best Designer, 1985, 1986, 1990, 1992, 1997 Fashion Footwear Association of New York Award, 1988 CFDA, Best Men's Designer, 1991 Woolmark Award, 1992 Donna Karan grew up Donna Faske in Forest Hills, New York, and seemed destined from the beginning to be in the fashion industry her father was a tailor and her mother was a sales representative and showroom model. After high school Karan moved to New York City to attend...

Mary Quant

Mary Quant Cosmetic

Awards Woman of the Year, London, 1963 Sunday Times International Fashion Award, London, 1963 O.B.E. Order of the British Empire, 1966 British Fashion Council Hall of Fame Award, 1990 Booby traps and bacon savers . . . bras and panty hose, that is, for those who were not around when the designer of the 1960s, Mary Quant, started a fashion revolution. Quant opened her first Bazaar store on London's King's Road in 1955 with her husband partner Alexander Plunkett Greene, and before long she was...

Yohji Yamamoto

Awards Fashion Editors Club Award, 1982, 1991, 1997 Mainichi Grand Prize, 1984 Chevalier de l'Ordre des Art et des Lettres, French Ministry of Culture, 1994 Fashion Group Night of Stars Honoree, 1998 Art e Moda Award, Florence, Italy, 1998 Fashion watchers are always claiming to understand the essence of Yohji Yamamoto's designs. He has been called visionary, avant-garde, antifash-ion, nondirectional, and so on. Many have said he subscribes to the Japanese belief that beauty does not come...

Geoffrey Beene

Geoffrey Beene Fashion Images

Awards National Cotton Council Award, 1964, 1969 Coty American Fashion Critics Award, 1964, 1966, 1968, 1974, 1975, 1977, 1981, 1982 Neiman Marcus Award, 1965 Ethel Traphagen Award, 1966 Council of Fashion Designers of America Award, 1986, 1987, 1989 Council of Fashion Designers of America, Lifetime Achievement Award, 1988 Geoffrey Beene graduated from high school in Haynesville, Louisiana, when he was sixteen. In 1943 he enrolled in Tulane University to study medicine but soon found himself...

Claude Montana

Awards Best Women's Collection, Paris Opera, 1985 Best European Designer, Munich, 1987 Balenciaga Prize Best Designer, Madrid, 1989 Prix Medicis, 1989 Fragrance Foundation Award, 1990 De d'Or Award Golden Thimble for Lanvin , 1990, 1991 Claude Montana grew up in a well-to-do family, but he did not want to pursue the professional career his family would have preferred. After leaving home in his late teens and getting by on odd jobs, including one as an extra at the Paris Opera, he went to London...

Bill Blass

Awards Coty American Fashion Critics Winnie Award, 1961, 1963, 1970 Gold Coast Award, Chicago, 1965 National Cotton Council Award, New York, 1966 Coty American Fashion Critics, Menswear Award, 1968 Neiman Marcus Award, Dallas, 1969 Coty American Fashion Critics, Hall of Fame Award, 1970 Coty American Fashion Critics, Special Citations, 1971, 1982, 1983 Point Council Award, 1971 Martha Award, New York, 1974 Honorary Doctorate, Rhode Island School of Design, 1977 Ayres Look Award, 1978...

Doc Martens R Griggs Co

Klaus Maertens of Munich, Germany, who created an air-cushioned, soled boot from a truck tire in 1945 after breaking his foot skiing, could never have imagined the fashion statement his boots would one day make. Dr. Herbert Funck, an engineer, helped Maertens perfect his boot in 1947 for commercial production in Germany. The hard-wearing utility boot with a Goodyear welted sole, which resists oil, fat, acid, petrol, and alkali, was transformed in 1960 into Doc Martens or DM's through a...

Anna

Birthplace Dearborn Heights, Michigan Award Perry Ellis Award, 1993 Anna Sui, the daughter of Chinese immigrants, grew up in a small suburb of Detroit, Michigan, where she spent her time designing evening wear for her dolls. After high school, Sui convinced her parents to send her to New York to study fashion at the Parsons School of Design. Sui left Parsons in 1975, after two years of study. Over the next several years, Sui worked for a series of design firms, including Bobbie Brooks and...

Theadora Van Runkle

Awards Academy Award Nominations, Costume Design, Bonnie and Clyde 1967 , Godfather, Part II 1974 and Peggy Sue Got Married 1986 When we look back at the reemergence of certain trends in women's fashions during the twentieth century, it becomes clear that the Depression era look of the 1930s had a tremendous influence on the styles of the 1960s and 1970s. American filmmakers played a major role in fostering this trend, bringing the 1930s to the moviegoing masses in such films as They Shoot...

Roger Vivier

Awards Neiman Marcus Award, 1961 Knighted, France, 1988 Daniel and Fischer Award Riberio d'Oro Roger Vivier enrolled at the Ecole des Beaux Arts at the age of nineteen to study sculpture. After working briefly in a shoe factory, Vivier, the Fa-berge of Footwear, launched his footwear design career in 1937 designing for Pinet and Bally in France, Delman in the United States, and Rayne and Turner in the United Kingdom. He designed a cork-soled platform shoe for Elsa Schiaperelli in 1939, and in...

Brioni

Brioni, and there never has been. In 1945 two partners, Gaetane Savini and Nazareno Fonticoli, opened a tailor shop in Rome and named it after a resort island in the Adriatic Sea, where the wealthy frolicked. The two craftsmen became known for creating handmade suits of exceptional quality at a time when nothing similar was available anywhere but on London's Savile Row. In the early 1950s, Brioni Roman Style, the full name of the salon, began to make a name for itself by...

Norma Kamali

Award Coty American Fashion Critics Award, 1981, 1982, 1983 Council of Fashion Designers of America Award, 1982, 1985 Ernie Award, 1983 Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising Award, 1984 CFDA Award, Innovative Use of Video in Presentation and Promotion of Fashion, 1984 6th Annual Interiors Award, 1985 Fashion Group Award, 1986 American Success Award, Fashion Institute of Technology, 1989 Fashion Outreach Style Award, 1995 Norma Kamali grew up on the upper east-side of Manhattan, New...

What Was The Impact Of Emergence Of Women Right Activists On Womensware During That Period

The word fashion conjures many ideas in people's minds trendy styles, a person's external appearance, or the work of an elite group of designers. But fashion does not exist in a vacuum its context is the society around it. Fashion is a style . . . that is temporarily adopted by a social group . . . because that chosen style is perceived to be socially appropriate for the time and situation Sproles and Burns, 1994 . Fashion and social development have a dynamic relationship each one influences...

Isaac Mizrahi

Awards Council of Fashion Designers of America Award, 1988, 1989 Fashion Industry Foundation Award, 1990 Michaelangelo Shoe Award, 1993 Sundance Film Festival Audience Award for Unzipped, 1995 He refers to his witty film, Unzipped, about one stressful season in the life of a fashion designer himself, of course , as a frockumentary. His comic book, Sandee the Supermodel, parodies the lifestyles of divas in demand. And his admitted love affair with Technicolor has given birth to such surprising...

Anne Klein Hannah Golofsky

Awards Mademoiselle Merit Award, 1954 Coty American Fashion Critics Award, 1955, 1969 Neiman Marcus Award, 1959, 1969 Lord and Taylor Award, 1964 National Cotton Council Award, 1965 In 1948 Anne Klein and first husband, Ben Klein, formed Junior Sophisticates, which completely transformed the clothing styles, choices, and attitudes of young American women. Anne Klein will forever be remembered as the designer who revolutionized the junior market, doing away with the traditional little-girl...

Jean Patou

March 8, 1936 Birthplace Normandy Today, the House of Jean Patou is known primarily for producing Joy, the most expensive perfume in the world, first introduced in 1930. But Patou's contributions to modern fashion were not restricted to perfumes, although there were many, each with a cleverly seductive name, from Moment Supreme, 1929, and Divine Folie, 1933, to l'Heure Attendue, first offered in 1946, after his death. The couturier's talents included more than...

Gianni Versace

July 25, 1997 Birthplace Calabria, Italy Awards Occhio d' Oro Award, Milan, 1982, 1984, 1990, 1991 Cutty Sark Award, 1983, 1988 Council of Fashion Designer of America International Award, 1993 Gianni Versace did not receive a formal education in fashion design. He did, however, study architecture in Calabria from 1964 to 1967. Versace's preparation for fashion design came informally, through his mother. As a child, Versace spent time in his mother's dress shop where he...

Tommy Hilfiger

Awards Menswear Designer of the Year, CFDA, 1995 From Catwalk to Sidewalk, VH1 Fashion and Music Awards, 1995 Designer of the Year, Parsons School of Design, 1998 Normally when we talk about the big three, we are referring to Ford, General Motors, and Chrysler. There is, however, another big three Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and Tommy Hilfiger. Together, they form the triumvirate that dominates the menswear industry. Tommy Hilfiger was one of nine siblings born into a middle-class family in...

Azzedine Alaia

Awards Designer of the Year, French Ministry of Culture, 1985 To those familiar with his work, it is not surprising that Azzedine Ala'ia originally planned to become a sculptor. His garments are known for their sensuous tension, their voluptuization of the female form, and their accentuation of womanly curves. In other words, the King of Cling, as he is called, is renowned for creating the sexiest clothing in the world. Raised by his grandmother, Ala'ia attended L'Ecole des Beaux Arts in Tunis...

Herve Leger Herve Peugnet

Leger's bender dresses are designed to perfect the female body, and that they do. Made of bands that stretch and mold, the creations of Herve Leger are often compared with those of Azzedine Alai'a, the well-known King of Cling. Leger's sensual creations are body conscious, sophisticated, and carefully designed for each client from narrow fabric bands of Lycra and spandex, which are hand cut, sewn, and made especially for the woman who is not shy about her femininity. Having started his design...

Tiffany and Company

Awards Paris Exposition Universelle, 1889, 1900 World's Columbian Exposition, Chicago, 1893 Pan-American Exposition, Buffalo, 1901 Turin International Exposition, 1902 Lousiana Purchase Exposition, Saint Louis, 1904 Panama Pacific World Exposition, San Francisco, 1915 New York World's Fair, 1939 On its first day of business, in 1837, Tiffany and Young took in 4.98. By the beginning of the twentieth century, Tiffany and Company had more than 1,000 employees and branches in Paris, London, and...

Rifat Ozbek

Awards Woman Magazine, Designer Award, 1986 British Fashion Council, Designer of the Year Award, London, 1988, 1992 Rifat Ozbek is inspired by adornment. He is an observer of culture and subculture, from Tibetan to American Indian, and his interest in decoration is evident in his ornamental clothing. Born in Istanbul, Ozbek left to study architecture at Liverpool University but soon recognized that his interest in constructing buildings was not as compelling as his desire to decorate them....

Elio Fiorucci

Award La Jolla Museum of Art, Italian Re-Evolution, 1982 Elio Fiorucci was the very first designer entrepreneur to recognize and implement what is today the driving force behind so many of the fashion world's greatest successes the total retail concept. In the late 1960s, however, his ideas were considered outrageous and even subversive by many adults, who cringed at the very mention of his name. For teenagers, however, he was pure inspiration. Shopping for clothes at a Fiorucci boutique in...

Todd Oldham

Awards Council of Fashion Designers of America Perry Ellis Award, 1991 Crystal Apple Award, AIDS Project Los Angeles Fund-raiser, 1996 As a child, Todd Oldham had the opportunity to express his creativity through sewing and painting. Oldham's desire for sewing clothing came from his grandmother, Mildred Jasper, who taught Oldham how to sew at the age of nine. By the time he was fifteen, Oldham was creating clothes for his sister, Robin. In 1980, after high school, Oldham took an alterations...

Zoran Ladicorbic Zoran

His devotees, called Zoranians, are a group of socialites, celebrities, and high-powered businesswomen who have given up their jewelry, their couture gowns, and any other superfluous ornamentation to embrace his pure and consistent aesthetic. His clothes are sans buttons, bows, beads, cuffs, collars, snaps, zippers, ruffles, prints . . . anything that might be considered unnecessary. His fabrics are limited primarily to cashmere, silk, cashmere, linen, and, of course, cashmere. He is Zoran....

Pierre Cardin

Birthplace San Andrea da Barbara, Italy Awards Sunday Times International Fashion Award London , 1963 De d'Or Award, 1977, 1979, 1982 Chevalier de la Legion d' Honneur, 1983 Fashion Oscar, Paris, 1985 Golden Orchid Award for Maxim's, 1985 Foundation for Garment amp Apparel Advancement Award, Tokyo, 1988 Grand Officer, Order of Merit, Italy, 1988 Honorary Ambassador to UNESCO, 1991 Pierre Cardin was born in Italy but spent most of his childhood in France. The Cardins knew their son was destined...

Mainbocher Main Rousseau Bocher

December 27, 1976 Birthplace Chicago, Illinois Award Navy's Meritorious Public Service Citation, 1960 Mainbocher was born Main Rousseau Bocher on Chicago's west side. He studied at the Lewis Institute and the Chicago Academy of Fine Arts until 1909. After moving to New York, he studied at the Art Students' League and worked as a part-time lithographer. He returned to Chicago to attend the University of Chicago in 1911, but the death of his father forced him to leave...

Fernando Sanchez

Awards International Wool Secretariat Competition, 1954 Coty Special Award for Lingerie, 1974 Fashion Critics Award, 1975, 1981 Fashion Designers of America Award, 1981 Sanchez began his design training at the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, the school he attended from 1951 to 1953. Afterward, Maggy Rouff employed him as assistant designer until 1956, when he went to work for Christian Dior. At Dior, he spent two years designing for Dior Boutiques and then created...

Issey Miyake

Issey Mikey 1994

Awards Japan Fashion Editors Club Award, 1974 Mainichi Newspaper Fashion Award, 1976, 1984 Pratt Institute Design Excellence Award, 1979 Council of Fashion Designers of America Award, 1983 Neiman Marcus Award, 1984 Officier de l'Ordre des Arts et Lettres, France, 1989 Hiroshima Art Prize, 1991 Honorary Doctorate, Royal College of Art, London, 1993 Chevalier de l'Ordre National de la Legion d'Honneur, Paris, 1993 Kazumaru Issey Miyake, who was born in Hiroshima, was seven on August 6, 1945, the...

Jessica McClintock

June 19, 1930 Birthplace Frenchville, Maine Awards Ernie Award, 1981 Tommy Award, American Printed Fabric Council, 1986 DEBI Lifetime Achievement Award, 1999 Jessica Gagnon, whom is now known as Jessica McClintock, attended Boston University from 1947 to 1949. In 1949 Jessica Gagnon married Al Staples and settled into domestic life as Jessica Staples. In 1963 she obtained her bachelor of arts degree from San Jose State University in California. Shortly after completing her education,...

Edward H Molyneux

Pursuing his desire to become a painter, Molyneux studied art and initially made a living by sketching for advertisements and magazines. After his sketch of an evening dress won a design contest, he was hired by the contest's sponsor, Lucile Lady Duff Gordon . In 1911 he began by working as her sketch artist and was promoted to designer for her Paris operations. Molyneux's career took a brief detour beginning in 1914 when he served in World War I. He was wounded three times and earned the rank...

Hanae Mori

Medaille d'Argent, City of Paris, 1978 Symbol of Man Award, Minnesota Museum, 1978 Croix de Chevalier des Arts et Lettres, 1984 Avant-garde Japon, Centre Pompidou, Paris, 1986 Purple Ribbon Decoration, Japan, 1988 Asahi Prize as Pioneer of Japanese Fashion, 1988 Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur, 1989 Person of Cultural Merit, Japan, 1989 Hanae Mori 35 Years of Fashion, Tokyo, 1989, Monte Carlo, 1990, and Paris, 1990 Japonism in Fashion, Kyoto Costume Institute, 1994 Japanese Design A Survey...

Selected Bibliography

Costume Jewelers The Golden Age of Design. Atglen, PA Schiffer, 1997. Ginsburg, Madeleine. The Hat Trends and Traditions. Hauppauge, N.Y. Barrons Educational Series, 1990. McDowell, Colin. Hats Status, Style and Glamour. New York Thames and Hudson, 1997. O'Keefe, Linda, and Andreas Bleckmann photographer . Shoes A Celebration of Pumps, Sandals, Slippers amp More. New York Workman Publishing, 1996. Prat, Lucy, Linda Wooley, and Sara Hodges. Shoes. London Victoria and Albert...

Oleg Cassini

Oleg Cassini 1960s Pillbox Hats

Awards Mostra della Moda, Turin, 1934 Honorary Doctor of Fine Arts, International College of Fine Arts, Miami, Florida, 1989 Oleg Cassini-Loiewski grew up in Saint Petersburg, Russia. He was born into nobility his father held the title of count his grandfather served the czar as minister to China and later to the United States and his father was the secretary of the Russian Embassy. After the Russian Revolution, the Cassini family relocated in Florence, Italy. It was in Florence that Cassini...

Oscar de la Renta

Birthplace Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic Awards Coty American Fashion Critics Award, 1967, 1973 Coty Return Award, 1968 Neiman Marcus Award, 1968 Golden Tiberius Award, 1969 American Printed Fabric Council Tommy Award, 1971 Caballera of the Order of Juan Pablo Duarte, 1972 Gran Comandante of the Order of Cristobal Colon, Dominican Republic, 1972 Crystal Star Award for Design Excellence, 1990 Oscar de la Renta was raised in a middle class family with his mother, father, and seven sisters. At...

Hubert James Taffin de Givenchy

Jackie Onassis Silhouette

February 20, 1927 Birthplace Beauvais, France Awards Oscar, Wardrobe Design, Sabrina 1954 Oscar, Wardrobe Design, Breakfast at Tiffany's 1960 De d'Or Award Golden Thimble , 1982, 1978 Chicago Fashion Award, Chicago Historical Society, 1995 Hubert de Givenchy's imagination was inspired by his grandfather, a former director of the renowned Manufacture de Beauvais and the Manufacture des Gobelins tapestry works, and his grandmother's collection of fine textiles. Givenchy viewed his first...

Paul Smith

Awards Number One Men's Wear Designer, Journal du Textile 1992, 1993, 1994 It is rare for men's fashions to change direction significantly. Only three designers are noted for redirecting men's fashions Pierre Cardin in the 1960s with tapered jackets and flared pants, Giorgio Armani in the 1980s with broad-shouldered power suits, and Paul Smith in the 1990s with high buttoned suits. Smith executed a simple change in men's suit jackets he moved the top button from the navel to the chest and added...

Vera Wang

Vera Wang Line 1995

As a child, Vera Wang was interested in ice skating and art and she wanted to attend an art school, but her father wanted her to choose a more lucrative career. Following her father's advice, Wang attended Sarah Lawrence College, where she received her bachelor of arts in liberal arts. After college, Wang worked as an editor for Vogue magazine for seventeen years, and then as a design director for Ralph Lauren for two years. Wang's first exposure to the bridal and evening-wear market came...

Catalina

Award Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce Golden 44 Award, 1979 Catalina, a leading swimwear and active-wear company, originated as a manufacturer of underwear and sweaters under the name of Bentz Knitting Mills. As the company grew, it underwent several name changes. From Bentz Knitting Mills, the company became Pacific Knitting Mills in 1912 after that, they became Catalina Knitting Mills in 1928 and finally Catalina in 1955. Catalina launched its first wool knitted swimwear collection in 1912....

The Gap

Awards Advertising Age's Marketer of the Year, 1997 Gold Medal Winner, National Retail Federation, 1997 In the late 1960s, lifestyles in America were changing rapidly. Society was becoming more relaxed, people had more leisure time to spend on recreational activities, social roles for women were changing, and the hippy movement was questioning societal norms with open protest and blatant disregard for the establishment. It was an era marked by constant disagreement among the generations and the...

Christian Dior

Christian Dior Hourglass Figure 1947

Awards Neiman Marcus Award, Dallas, 1947 Remise de la Legion d'Honneur, 1950 Parsons School of Design Distinguished Achievement Award, New York, 1956 Sports Illustrated Designer of the Year Award, 1963 Schiffi Lace and Embroidery Institute Award, 1963 Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur, 1979 De d'Or, 1983, 1989, 1990 Christian Dior et le Cin ma, Cinematheque, Paris, 1983 Dessins de Dior, Mus je des Arts de la Mode, Paris, 1987 Fashion Industry Foundation Award, 1990 Christian Dior, the Magic of...

Halston Roy Halston Frowick

Roy Halston Frowick

March 26, 1990 Birthplace Des Moines, Iowa Awards Coty American Fashion Critics Award, 1962, 1969, 1971, 1972, 1974 Halston Retrospective, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City, New York, 1991 Halston's presence seemed larger than life. From the time he left Evans-ville, Indiana, where he grew up, he radiated an aura of glamor. He became known for his millinery designs in the 1950s and 1960s, his elegant streamlined women's clothes in the 1970s, and an extensive...

Sonia Delaunay

December 5, 1979 Birthplace Gradzihsk, Ukraine Award Legion d'Honneur, 1975 Sonia Delaunay, born Sophie Stern, moved to Paris in 1905 to study art at the Academie de la Palette. At the turn of the twentieth century, Delau-nay, with her husband Robert, was at the forefront of a new artistic movement, Orphism, an early form of abstract painting. Delaunay's interest in collage inspired her to combine fine and applied arts and to experiment with color and texture...

Florence Eiseman

Awards Neiman Marcus Award, 1955 Gimbel's Fashion Award, 1971 I. Magnin's Great American Award, 1974 Florence Eisman never intended to be a designer, much less one of the most influential children's designers of the twentieth century. She studied stenography before she married Laurence Eiseman and settled into motherhood. After the birth of her sons, she taught herself to sew and began making clothes for her boys and other children in the neighborhood. In 1945, to supplement the family's...

Bob Mackie

Birthplace Monterey Park, California Awards Emmy Award, 1967, 1969, 1976, 1978, 1985 Costume Designers Guild, Fashion Award, 1975 Oscar Award, 1968, 1972, 1981 Bob Mackie, inspired by visits to the local movie theater, started fantasizing about clothing at an early age. Mackie attended college until the age of twenty-two, when he quit to focus on his dream, designing costumes. Mackie's first job was for Frank Thompson, a costume designer at Paramount Studios, where he sketched costume designs....

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo Retrospective, Florence, Italy, 1985 Footwear News Hall of Fame Award, 1988 The Art of the Shoe Retrospective, Los Angeles, 1992 In 1998 the Ferragamo family celebrated the 100th anniversary of its founder's birth, delighted at the fact that the Ferragamo company of today is a fully diversified luxury fashion house, producing everything from handsome ties and scarves to elegant coats and handbags. But as family members proudly admit, it was the shoemaking skill, amazing...

Betsey Johnson

Birthplace Wethersfield, Connecticut Awards Mademoiselle Merit Award, 1970 Coty American Fashion Critics' Winnie, 1971 American Printed Fabrics Council Tommy Award, 1971, 1990 As a girl, Betsey Johnson dreamed of becoming a dancer and began sewing dance costumes to pay for her lessons. She attended Syracuse University where she graduated magna cum laude and Phi Beta Kappa in 1964, with a major in illustration and a minor in drama. During her final year of college Johnson won a contest to become...

Valentino Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani

Grand'Ufficiale dell'ordine al Merito, 1985 Ufficiale di Gran Croce, 1986 National Italian American Foundation Award, 1989 In 1998 one of the world's most revered couturiers, Valentino, and his longtime business partner, Giancarlo Giammetti, sold 100 percent of their company to the Italian industrial giant Holding di Partecipaziono Industriali HdP . After almost forty years, their couture house became one of several purchased during the final decades of the twentieth century by a larger company...

Thomas Burberry

Birthplace Dorking, Surrey, England When Thomas Burberry opened his drapery business, T. Burberry and Sons, in 1856, he could not have fathomed the impact he would have on men's outerwear and clothing in general. In the 1870s he invented gabardine, a revolutionary fabric which rain could not penetrate, yet was cool and wrinkle resistant. This fabric became invaluable for sportswear as active leisure pursuits became popular in the 1890s. Burberry's gabardine trenchcoat, made for the British...

Vivienne Westwood

Mini Crini Vivienne Westwood 1983

Birthplace Glossop, Derbyshire, England Awards British Designer of the Year, 1990, 1991 Fashion Group International Award, 1996 Order of the British Empire, 1992 Queen's Export Award, 1998 Born Vivienne Isabel Swire, Westwood came of age in London during the birth of the punk rock movement. Westwood, who was a schoolteacher in the 1960s, never had any intention of working in fashion. However, this self-taught fashion designer came to define the look of two major youth movements punk rock in the...

Fubu

Fubu Shirts For Women

Daymond John entered the fashion industry by selling tie-top hats on the street corners of Queens, New York, in the early 1990s. The immediate popularity of his hats lead John to assemble a team of his neighborhood friends to form the company FUBU. The idea behind FUBU For Us by Us was simple The consumer is making clothes for the consumer. With this philosophy guiding the FUBU team, Daymond John, Keith Perrin, Carl Brown, J. Alexander Martin, and designer Kiki Peterson affixed the FUBU name on...

Miriam Haskell

For connoiseurs of costume jewelry, Miriam Haskell's pieces are among the most coveted. Made of the finest faux pearls, brass filagree, and handmade glass beads, her designs were beautifully intricate and perfectly executed. Haskell began her career in the early 1920s as the manager of a stylish boutique in New York's McAlpin Hotel. Reportedly inspired by Chanel's innovative imitations, as well as her exposure to the chic items sold in the hotel shop, she founded her own company in the...

Ossie Clark

August 6, 1996 Birthplace Liverpool, England In the late 1960s and early 1970s, when London's Chelsea neighborhood was the center of world chic, one designer was at the center of that world. Ossie Clark, along with his wife, Celia Birtwell, famous for her tuned-in textiles with psychodelic prints, helped define the moment. Born into a working-class family, Clark took courses at a technical college and studied art at a local college. He ultimately attended London's Royal...

Yves Saint Laurent Yves Mathieu SaintLaurent

Yves Saint Laurent Trouser Suit 1960

Awards Third Prize, International Wool Secretariat, 1953 First Prize, International Wool Secretariat, 1954 International Fashion Award, Council of Fashion Designers of America, Yves Saint Laurent 25 Years of Design, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur, 1985 Yves Saint Laurent began designing in the 1950s, an era when women were expected to conform to a traditional feminine ideal. As he continued to design, women's roles began to change as women fought for civil,...

Madeleine Vionnet

Chilleurs Aux Bois Madeleine Vionnet

Birthplace Chilleurs-aux-Bois, France Awards Three Women Madeleine Vionnet, Claire McCardell and Rei Kawakubo, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, 1987 Retrospective, Mus e de Marseille, 1991 Madeleine Vionnet was born along the Swiss border of France. She showed a prowess for math at an early age, but she quit school at the age of twelve to apprentice with a Parisian seamstress. At seventeen she moved to Paris and worked as an assistant at the House of Vincent. In 1895 she moved to...

Oilily

Award National Retail Federation's Retailer of the Year, 1999 Oilily originated in Alkmaar, Netherlands, in 1963 and was founded by Marieke and Willem Olsthoorn after the arrival of their twins. The Ol-sthoorns wanted exciting clothing that contained vivid colors and interesting prints and textures for their children, but they found very few options on the market. Following this design concept, Marieke developed fabrics and designs for children's clothing containing elements that capture the...

Claire McCardell

Claire Mccardell

Merit Award, Mademoiselle Magazine, 1944 De d'Or Award Golden Thimble , 1946 Neiman-Marcus, Distinguished Service in Fashion, 1946 Sports Illustrated, American Sportswear Designer, 1956 Coty Hall of Fame, 1958 Claire McCardell was born on May 24, 1905 in Frederick, Maryland. Her father, Adrian Leroy McCardell, was the president of the Frederick County National Bank, and a state senator, and her mother, Eleanore, was born in Jackson, Mississippi, where she was raised to be a proper lady. Her...

Fredericks of Hollywood

Fredericks Hollywood

Frederick's of Hollywood originated as a New York mail-order company which specialized in intimate apparel. Frederick Mellinger, called Mr. Frederick, began the business in 1946. He opened his first store on Hollywood Boulevard to take advantage of the glitz and glamor that surrounded movie stars. Much of Frederick's initial success can be attributed to Mellinger's inclusion of black lingerie. This European-style lingerie was quite a departure from the standard white undergarments worn by most...