List of Illustrations

Figure 2.1 Advertisement for the Marvel Fringe. Lady's Pictorial,

14 December 1895. 17

Figure 2.2 Miss Marie Studholme, Miss Gabrielle Ray, Miss Zena Dare.

Postcard. London. Own collection. 21

Figure 2.3 Miss Vesta Tilley, actress. Postcard. London. Own collection. 27

Figure 2.4 Miss Vesta Tilley, actress. Postcard. London. Own collection. 27

Figure 2.5 Miss Marie Studholme, actress. Postcard. James Bacon and

Sons, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Own collection. 35

Figure 2.6 Isaac Snowman, painting. Windsor Magazine, 10 June 1904. 37

Figure 2.7 John Singer Sargent, Lady Agnew, 1895. Reproduced by permission of the Scottish National Gallery. 39

Figure 2.8 Miss Ethel Oliver, actress. Postcard. London. Own collection. 40

Figure 2.9 Miss Marie Studholme. Postcard. London. Own collection. 41

Figure 2.10 Penryhn Stanslaws, illustration in the style of Charles Dana

Gibson. Windsor Magazine, June 1904. 42

Figure 2.11 Miss Camille Clifford. Postcard. London. Own collection. 43

Figure 3.1 Women war workers at Darlington Railway Plant and

Foundry, 1915. Reproduced by permission of Darlington Borough Council. 51

Figure 3.2 'These Women are doing their bit. Learn to Make

Munitions'. Poster designed by Septimus Scott. Reproduced by permission of the Imperial War Museum, London. 65

Figure 3.3 'All Easy to Make', Home Chat, 5 September 1914.

Reproduced by permission of the British Library. 67

Figure 3.4 'Summer frocks', Home Chat, 20 May 1916. Reproduced by permission of the British Library 68

Figure 3.5 Women farm workers wearing breeches, Home Chat, 18 March 1916. Reproduced by permission of the British Library. 71

Figure 3.6 Viscountess Errington, Vogue, early February 1917.

Reproduced by permission of the British Library. 73

Figure 3.7 Front cover of English Vogue, Christmas 1916. Reproduced by permission of Conde Nast Publications Ltd. 75

Figure 4.1 Women at the North East Coast Exhibition,

Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 1929. Reproduced by permission of Newcastle Libraries and Information Service. 88

Figure 4.2 Women workers at Pease's Mill, Darlington, mid-l920s.

Reproduced by permission of Darlington Borough Council. 89

Figure 4.3 'Our New Electorate', advertisement in Britannia and Eve,

June 1929. Authors' copyright. 90

Figure 4.4 Lily Robinson, Jean Dawson and Elsie Hogg (left to right), out walking in Tynemouth, mid-l930s. Reproduced by permission of Pat Maher 91

Figure 4.5 The actress Nita, starring at the Phoenix Little Theatre in 1936. Reproduced by permission of Darlington Borough Council. 96

Figure 4.6 A Lyons' Teashop 'Nippy' at a dance, Picture Post, 4 March

1939.* 101

Figure 4.7 Women machinists at Henry Price's Fifty Shilling Tailors Ltd, Middlesbrough, 1937. Reproduced by permission of the Dorman Museum, Middlesbrough Borough Council. l05

Figure 4.8 Page from the catalogue of James Coxon & Co. Ltd,

Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 1924. Reproduced by permission of Beamish, the North of England open air museum. 110

* It has proved impossible to identify copyright ownership of this, despite all reasonable efforts. The authors would be pleased to hear from anyone who could help with this.

Figure 4.9 'Fashion takes a new route with Country Coats and Suits', illustrations from a fashion feature in Britannia and Eve, August 1929. Authors' copyright. 111

Figure 4.10 Fashion feature with Norma Shearer; Vogue, 13 November 1935. Reproduced by permission of Conde Nast Publications Ltd. 112

Figure 4.11 Fashion feature with Norma Shearer; Vogue, 13 November 1935. Reproduced by permission of Conde Nast Publications Ltd. 113

Figure 5.1 Hilary Fawcett married in Ossie Clark dress, Sunderland,

August 1970. Own collection. 124

Figure 5.2 Girls drinking on the Quayside, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, December 1998. North News and Pictures, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. 135

Figure 5.3 Girls on the town. Newcastle-upon-Tyne. North News and

Pictures, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. 136

Figure 5.4 The window display in Top Shop, Eldon Square,

Newcastle-upon-Tyne, December 1998. 144

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