Il A Ete Prime

Robe du soir

Javier Gojé, 'Il a Eté Primé', Gazette du bon ton, March 1914. Pochoir print. CSM Archive.

A satin evening ensemble consisting of a tunic over a skirt pinned into place with a large cabochon. Gojé was a Spanish artist who worked in Paris from 1900 and was a regular contributor to the Gazette.


Robes de Dœuillefc, Beer, Martial et Armand, Beer, Gliéruifc

Valentine Gross, 'Sa Lettre', Gazette du bon ton, 1915. CSM Archive.

Valentine Gross (Madame Jean Hugo) was also known for her depictions of the Ballets Russes. Illustration during the war often reflected current concerns while underlining the desirability of keeping up appearances. On the right, an elegantly dressed Parisienne reads a letter from the Front.

Ancient Bon Ton


Robes du soir de Premeé, BceuilR Paquin, Preme6, Callofc, fenny

Valentine Gross, 'Nous Partons', Gazette du bon ton, 1915. CSM Archive.

This and the illustration opposite feature the so-called 'war crinoline', a fuller, shorter skirt based on 19th-century styles. Though slightly more practical than the hobble skirt it replaced, it was short-lived.

1915 Skirt


Etienne Drian, 'La Marseillaise', Gazette du bon ton, 1915. Pochoir print. CSM Archive.

A series of four images with a patriotic theme demonstrates Drian's superb draughtsmanship. His confident, fluid style in the tradition of Boldini and Helleu gave his models an elegance evident throughout his long career.

Etienne Drian


Etienne Drian, 'En suivant les Opérations', Gazette du bon ton, 1915. Pochoir print. CSM Archive.

Layered scallops and flounces give volume to the new, shorter skirts.

Mesopotamia Clothing

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