Jean Enos Fashion Colletion Vogue Style Wear

Page numbers in italics refer to illustrations of the subject or, in the case of designers and photographers, of their designs or photographs.

18th-century influence, 46-7,55,64

Agnes hats, 114

Alai'a, Azzedone, 310-11,313

Amies, Hardy, 72,174

Antwerp Six, 259, 332, 377

Arden, Elizabeth: cosmetics, 129,135

Armani, Giorgio, 259,260

Arrow Collars and Shirts, 16,56

art and design courses, 142,167, 223,

251,260 Art Deco influence, 70,84, 86 Augustabernard, 107 Austin Reed clothes, 117

Balenciaga, Cristobal, 121,147,191, 218,220

Ballets Russes: designs for, 9, 34

Balmain, Pierre, 360

Banks, Arthur, 176-7

Barneys adverts, 260,302,324-5

beachwear, 45, 95-9,212-13,234,340

Beardsley, Aubrey, 353

Beatles, 167-8

'Bergfalter' fabric, 23

Bergstrdm, Martin, 370-1

Berkertex clothes, 206

Bianchini-Ferier textiles, 50,51

bias cut, 71,103

Biba, 167,168,240-1

Blake, Peter, 168

Bloomingdale's adverts, 270

Blum, Alice, 8

Bolan, Marc, 169

Borea, Vera, 178

Boudicca designs, 345

Bowie, David, 169

Boy boutique, 327

Brevitt shoes, 209

Burberrys clothes, 43,149, 359

Butterick, 8

C&A adverts, 256-7 Capezio, 253

Capucci, Roberto, 219,283

Cardin, Pierre, 166,230-1

Carnaby Street, 167

Carnegie, Hattie, 72,151

Cartier jewellery, 319

Castillo, Antonio Canovas del, 179

Central Saint Martins, London, 223, 251,

260, 264, 268, 280, 298 Chadwick, Luie M„ 80 Chanel, Gabrielle 'Coco : 1900-24,11,27, 40-1; 1925-49, 70, 73,89,122;

1950-74,207; accessories, 376; Lagerfeld at, 367,375 Charles, Caroline, 227 Chase, Edna Woolman, 71 Chloé, 258, 289,328, 352-3, 354 Churchill tailoring, 143 Clive clothes, 226 cloche hats, 11,85 cocktail dresses, 193 Cocteau, Jean, 8, 70, 71 Coddington, Grace, 252 Colin family, 7 Colsenet, 237

Comme des Garçons, 259,336 computer graphics, 260-1, 366 Constructivist influence, 9,66, 67 Cooper, Gladys: designs for, 164 corsets, 8,14,136,197

350; men's, 331 Costelloe, Paul, 308 Courrèges, André, 166,219,221 cruise wear, 78,116

Daks suits, 188-9 dance crazes, 28 Day, Corinne, 260 Demeulemeester, Anne, 259,332 Dior, Christian: 1950s, 184; 1960s, 219; A-line suit, 190; hats, 159; New Look, 73, 73,152-4,156,158; other designers at, 258, 318,372-3; perfume adverts, 168,233; ready-to-wear, 166 Directoire style, 9,12 Dolcis shoes, 72,208 Dorville designs, 242 dressmaking, home, 8,15, 72

Eastern influence, 13,55-6

Egyptian influence, 11, 68

Elms, Robert, 258

Enos clothes, 112

Esquire, 116

Estrava clothes, 194

Evangelista, Linda, 369

exercise and aerobics wear, 259,286

fabrics: first synthetic and knitted, 11; gabardine, 43; towelling, 213; 1960s, 234, 235, 237,242-3; 1970s, 169 Fairchild, John, 166,169 fans, 22,61 farthingales, 64

Fashion Institute of Technology, New York,

169, 260, 332,339 Fashions for All, 15 Fath, Jacques, 162-3 Feraud, Louis, 243

Ferre, Gianfranco, 318

fetish wear, 258, 295,322,326-7

Les Feuillets d'art, 60

First World War fashions, 10-11,34-43

Fortnum &. Mason clothes, 112

Fratini, Gina, 238

Fulham Road Clothes Shop, 229

furs, 75,252

Futurist influence, 9,87

Galliano, John, 258, 288, 298-301, 363, 372-3 Garbo, Greta, 72

Gaultier, Jean-Paul, 259,290-1,295,315,343

Gazette du bon ton, 10

Gerson, Hermann, 61

Gigli, Romeo, 306, 314

Givenchy, Hubert de, 184, 258, 259

glam rock, 169

Gré Cosmetics, 109

Gregory, Anthony, 326

grunge, 260

Gucci boots, 377

hairstyles: bobs, 11; Eton crops, 88;

long hair, 148; shingled, 107 Hamnett, Katherine, 260 handbags, first use, 14 Harella clothes, 138-9 Harlech, Amanda, Lady, 357 Harper's Bazaar, 10, 71; covers, 95,108,115 Harrods adverts, 14, 81,130,150,157,174-7 Hatakeyama, Takashi, 68 Hepburn, Audrey, 184 hippies, 167-8, 169,244-5 Hirshleifer's clothes, 308 holiday clothing: rise of, 71; see also beachwear Hollywood's influence, 72, 91,148 Horrockses dresses, 180-2 Hulanicki, Barbara, 167,168,240-1

International Textiles, 173 Ironside, Janey, 167

Jacobs, Marc, 377 Jacqmar clothes, 195 Jaeger clothes, 148,186-7 Jantzen swimwear, 96-7 Jones, Stephen, 288 Jordan, Donna, 249 Joris, Victor, 236

Journal der Luxus und der Moden, 6

Kawakubo, Rei, 259,336 Kayser Bondor lingerie, 196 King, Muriel, 151 Knights of the Bracelet, 19, 28 Kuppenheimer clothes, 17,57

Lacroix, Christian, 258, 293, 362,369,374

Lagerfeld, Karl, 289, 357,367

Lancton catalogues, 226-7

Lanvin, Jeanne, 46, 70, 94,179

Lanvin Castillo, 179

Lauren, Ralph, 259

Lee Jeans, 137

Legroux hats, 171

Lelong, Lucien, 70, 73, 78,155,156

Lenglen, Suzanne, 70

Levi Jeans, 347

Lichtenstein, Roy, 236

lingerie and underwear, 79,136,169,196-7,

246; as outerwear, 258-9 London, 'Swinging', 167,168 Lopez, Leslie, 271

McCardell, Claire, 72, 253 McCartney, Stella, 258, 261,354-5 McQueen, Alexander, 258, 259 Madonna, 259

magazines: 17th—19th centuries, 6; 1900-24, 8, 10; 1925-49, 71-2; 1950-74, 168-9; 1975-, 260; teenage, 169; see also individual magazines by name Mainbocher, 72 Margiela, Martin, 259 Marilyn, 271 Maxwell Fabrics, 228 Maywald, Willy, 153 Le Mercure galant, 6

miniskirts and dresses, 167,222, 224-5, 238,

240-3, 366-7 Mitchell, Donna, 237 Miyake, Issey, 259, 306 La Mode en peinture, 305 La Mode illustre'e, 8 Molyneux, Edward, 72,129,146 Mondi clothes, 296-7 'Mondrian' dress, 166-7 Monet, Claude, 7 Moser, Koloman, 23 Moss, Kate, 343 Mugler, 312

Najaar designs, 365

'new romantic' look, 258

Nipon, Albert, 302

Noten, Dries van, 259,377

O'Connor, Erin, 368

L'Officiel de la couture et de la mode, 184

Oldfield, Bruce, 269

Olympic clothes, 91,127

Ozbek, Rifat, 321

Panda Footwear, 142-3 Paolozzi, Eduardo, 182 Paquin, Madame, 22,32 Paraphernalia, 168 Paray, Lucile, 103

Parsons School, New York, 260, 309, 340 Patou, Jean, 70, 76, 78, 88, 219 Patterson, Ronald, 175 Paulette hats, 140 'peacock revolution', 167,216, 263 Pemberton, Muriel, 260 Pensee, Henry ä la, 178 Phillips, STan, 207

photography: and computer graphics, 260-1; relationship to illustration, 7; rise of, 71-2,123,168; the same designs illustrated and photographed, 23, 152-4, 166-7, 190, 352-3 Piaggi, Anna, 356 Piguet, Robert, 73,156 Piras, Fabio, 351

Pittsburgh Art Institute adverts, 142 platform shoes, 141,169,322-3 Poiret, Paul, 9-10,18-22, 25,30-1, 70 Pop Art, 167, 168

power dressing, 259-60,259,296-7 Prada, 334-5, 349, 376 Pringle knitwear, 182 psychedelia, 167-8,237,366 puffball 'pouf skirts, 258,275 punk, 258, 276-7

Quant, Mary, 167 The Queen, 8, 225

Rabanne, Paco, 166

Rauch, Madeleine de, 161

Reboux hats, 125

Redfern designs, 103

Rhodes, Zandra, 229, 244

Ribeiro, Clements, 376

Rodier, 53,101

Rosenstein, Nettie, 151

Royal College of Art, London, 167, 228,229

Rubber Ball, 326-7

Ruggieri, Cynzia, 282

Saint Laurent, Yves, 166,166-7, 270,275,292 Saks adverts, 378 Scheherazade: designs for, 9 Schiaparelli, Elsa, 70, 73,113,118-19,122 scrapbooks, 6, 7

Second World War fashions, 72-3,128-50 Sex Pistols, 278 Simpson, Adele, 151 Simpson, Wallis, 72 Simpson's clothes: 1925-49,126; 1950-74,188-9,202, 234-5,237, 250-1;

skiwear, 76,100-1, 235 Snow, Carmel, 153 Snyder, Maria, 280 sportswear, 53, 70, 77-8, 94, 237, 262; as everyday clothing, 259, 286; see also exercise and aerobics wear; skiwear Stephen, John, 167 Stevens, Jocelyn, 225 stilettoes, 208-9

street fashion, 169, 259,346; see also punk;

Westwood, Vivienne Styl, 60

sunglasses, 237-8, 343 Surrealist influence, 70,122,138-9 Sutherland, Graham, 182 Suzy hats, 124 swimwear see beachwear

Talbot, Suzanne, 106 Tatyana, 354-5

tights, 167, 247; T-shirt tights, 194 Toledo, Isabel, 303,317,339 TopShop's Atelier collection, 368 trouser suits, 221

trousers, and women, 10-11, 93,122,148,161

tunics, lampshade, 28,30

turbans, 22, 28,49; scarf turbans, 130

uniforms: First World War, 41-3 Utility clothing, 72-3,138-9

Valentino, 342 Vecellio, Cesare, 6 Versace, Gianni, 259,366 Vertice, 121

Vionnet, Madeleine, 68-9, 71, 88 Visionaire, 260, 261, 312 Vogel, Lucien, 10, 60 Vogue, 10, 46, 63, 71-2, 112; covers, 11, 58-9, 71, 83,119,123

war crinolines, 35

Watanabe, Junya, 348

Weissmuller, Johnny, 96

Weldon's Ladies'Journal, 8, 80

Westwood, Vivienne, 258,259,280-1, 322-3

Wiener Werkstatte, 23, 24, 25, 44

Wolsey clothes, 134

Women's Wear Daily (WWD), 169, 246, 279 Worth, 113

yachting wear, 92-3 Yamamoto, Yohji, 259, 307,337, 348 Yardley cosmetics, 135

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