The Civil Costume

of this short but busy reign differs in no visible degree from its immediate precursors. The long and short gowns, with sweeping sleeves, fancifully indented at the edges, or the pokys or bagpipe sleeves, mentioned by the monk of Evesham, formed the general upper garments of high and low, according to their own goodwill and pleasure, and in contempt of all parliamentary enactments.

A peti orpettite coat of red damask is mentioned as remaining amongst the apparel of Henry V.; and as it is described to have had open sleeves, there can be no doubt it was but a little coat, and that the garment had no affinity to its highly honoured namesake. The mention of gowns, houppelands, chaperons, &c. in the same inventory, proves the duration of the fashions of the last reign. Heukes of scarlet cloth and camlet, and pilches of grey fur, are novel articles. The first was no doubt a cloak similar to that still called a heuke by the Moors of Barbary and Morocco. The latter word is a corruption of the Latin pelliceus, or the Saxon pylce, and was an outer garment of fur used in cold or bad weather. Chaucer says,

M After grete hete comith colde, No man cast his pilche away."

Gallages or galloches occur in the same inventory; and Henry V.'s partiality to short boots or buskins, called by the French housseaulx and bottines, is proved by an anecdote in Monstrelet's Chronicles.

" When the rumour of Henry's death had reached the French court, Messire Sarazin d'Arly inquired of a relation, who had just returned from Picardy, if he knew any thing relative to the decease of the King of England; to which he replied in the affirmative, and said that he had seen the body of that monarch lying in state in the church of St. Offram at Abbeville. 'But are you sure,' said Sarazin,c that you have not been deceived V 6 Perfectly sure,' replied the other. £ But will you swear that he had not his buskins on his legs V 1 Truly, he had not,' said his relation. i Then, by my faith !' exclaimed Sarazin, c I will not believe he is dead if

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