were becomingly magnificent. The long tunic and mantle, varied sometimes by the cyclas, and the bliaus composed of rich stuffs 1 and lined with ermine and other costly furs, was the general costume of the court. Caps of various shapes, and a hat like the classical petasus slung behind to
1 The rich stuff called "cloth of tars" is mentioned in this reign. It was Latinized tarsicus and tartarinus, and we read of dalmatics and tunics of slate-colour, and light blue cloth of tars embroidered with branches and bezants of gold. Visitat Thesau. St. Paul, Lond. sub anno 1195, o 3
be assumed at pleasure, became frequent. (Vide figs, a, 6, c, in the engraving from the Painted Chamber.) Buttons closely set from the wrist to the elbow appear about this time (vide figure on horseback), and in a MS. poem, certainly not later than the year 1300, particular mention is made of this fashion:—
u His robe was all of gold beganne, Well chrislike maked I understande; Botones azurd (azure) everilke ane From his elboth to his handed
MS. Cotton, Julius V.
Gloves are more generally worn by noblemen and officers of state. Some are splendidly embroidered up the sides (vide fig. d, from the Painted Chamber) or round the tops. The hose are richly fretted with gold and various coloured silks (fig. e, ibid.).
The hair and beard are crisped and curled with great precision.
On the investment of the young Prince of Wales, afterwards Edward II., with the military belt of knighthood, purple robes, fine linen garments, and mantles woven with gold were liberally distributed to his young knight companions, who crowded in their glittering dresses the gardens of the Temple, which were set apart for their reception, and received much injury in this novel service.
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