The Second Republic

Tricoloured stuffs of 1848 Girondin mantles Open gowns Summer dresses Kasa-wecks and their derivatives Beaver bonnets velvet bonnets, and satin or crape drawn bonnets Cloches, Corn lie, Moldavian, and Jos phine cloaks mantles Isly green Opera cloaks Numerous styles of dressing the hair la Marie Stuart, la Valois, L da, Proserpine, and Ceres Marquise parasols Jewellery Straw bonnets Orleans and armure Work reticule or bag Chin s Pagoda sleeves Waistcoats basque bodices New and economical...

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The Revolution of July, 1830 Fashions in Louis Philippe's reign Microscopical bonnets, called bibis, cabriolets Variety of caps Fashions of the Middle Ages and of the Renaissance The stage Historic costumes Influence of Rachel, the actress Greek and Roman fashions Colours Various designations of materials Bedouin sleeves Bonnets and head-dresses Pamela bonnets Novel eccentricities Taglioni gowns, gathered la Vierge, laced la Niob , & c. The Sylvestrine Costumes to be worn on occasions of...

Chapter Xxviii

Fashions in i860 and 1861 Jeweller y Shape of Russian bonnets Nomenclature of girdles Different styles of dressing the hair The Ceres wreath Flowers and leaves for the hair Prohibition of green materials Anecdotes from the Union M dicale and the youmal de la Ni vre Cloth and silk mantles Braid and astrakan Four types of bonnet Morning bonnets Artificial flowers. Now that our task is nearly completed, we might, if necessary, appeal to the recollections of our readers, for we have reached the...

Reigns Of Louis Xviii And Charles X

Importation of foreign fashions in 1815 White dresses, white feathers, and fleurs de lys Emigrant ladies Russian toques Male and female dressmakers Ruchings Short sleeves and long gloves Herbault's homiets Chefs Anglomania in 1815 Green gauze veils spencers The canezou Lacroix, the stay-maker Dr. Pelletan and Charles X. Wasps The Ourika fashions The famous leg-of-mutton sleeves-Fashions l'Ipsibo , au Trocad ro, and la Dame Blanche Blonde caps and turbans Head-dresses Fashions, la giraffe the...

To 1867

Sunshades in 1862 Sailors' jackets, jerseys, and pilot-jackets Princess or demi-princess gowns Swiss bodices corset or postillion belts Lydia and Lalla Rookh jackets Vespertina opera cloaks 1* Longchamps is no more Bois de Boulogne Russian or Garibaldi bodices Paletot vest Empress belt 1885 patents for inventions regarding dress are taken out in 1864 Victoria skeleton skirts Indian stays train supporters Titian -coloured hair The Peplumin i860 Epicycloide steels aquarium earrings Description of...

Reign Of Napoleon

Ready-made mantles Talmas, mousquetaires, and rotondes The Second Empire reminiscences of the reign of Napoleon I. Marriage of Napoleon III. dress of the new Empress her hair dressed by Felix Escalier court mantle and train Four kinds of dress Opera dress in 1853-4 Bodices la Vierge, Pompadour bodices, and Watteau bodices Skirt trimmings A new colour, Th ba Light tints Social and theatrical celebrities The Eugenie head-dress and Mainnier bands End of the first period of Imperial fashions . . ....

Chapter Xxvi

Crinoline inaugurates the second era of Imperial fashions The reign of crinoline Starched petticoats Whaleboned petticoats Steel hoops Two camps are formed, one in favour of, and one inimical to crinoline Large collars Marie Antoinette fichus and mantles Exhibition of 1855 Cashmere shawls Pure cashmeres Indian cashmere shawls Indian woollen shawls Mouzaia shawls Algerian burnouses Pompadour parasols Straight parasols School for fans The fan drill The Queen of Oude's fans The Charlotte Corday...

Reign Of Henri

Opposition to the laws of King Henri III. on dress The wife of President N-. How both sexes evaded the edicts Gowns from Milan Mixture of masculine and feminine fashions Rage for perfumes Recognition of rank is demanded Costumes worn at Cognac by Marguerite de Valois in presence of the Polish ambassadors, and her costume at Blois Brantome's opinion Pointed bodices, puffed-out sleeves, and 44 bourrelets Remarks on hair Ridiculous dress of men Poucet, the preacher Satirical lines on Joyeuse Witty...

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Steven Stipelman Illustrations

Never out of fashion it is too valuable to the dressmakers, as a means of increasing the amount of their bills. Simultaneously with the introduction of the fancy garments I have just mentioned, gowns were very prettily made, with bodices either slightly pointed, or with waistbands or long sashes, or else princess shape or demi-princess. Swiss bodices were also worn, and Cf corslet and postillion belts. The above designations need no commentary the elegant appearance of such costumes can be...

Reigns Of John And Of Charles V

The States of Languedoc A young French lady in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries Low dresses Saying of a mercer Demoiselles Garn ches and garde-corps Le Parement des dames Social distinctions High character is worth more than gilded belt Precious stones The castles and other dwellings of the middle ages Splendid furniture Humble abodes of the poor Evening assemblies. Notwithstanding the efforts of legislation, extravagant expenditure on dress continued as great as ever, while the large...

Chapter Xxxiii

FASHIONS OF THE PRESENT DAY (CONTINUED). The International Exhibition of 1878 Foreign countries Japanese fans The little lace-makers of P niche Retrospective exhibition of costume in France Consid rations sur le V tement des Femmes, byM. Charles Blanc Historical Exhibition at the Trocad ro Comprehensive glance at the curiosities of that exhibition The Movement in 1879 Merveilleuse, Niniche, and other bonnets Plush Gown-stuff at a hundred francs the yard Scarfs, casaques, and various bodices...

Chapter

Painted faces Reply of a Turkish ambassador Ineffectual criticism Mme. Turcaref's < c pretintailles Mme. Bonnet's law-suit Brocaded materials iC Andriennes Criardes Return of hoops and paniers A sailor's leap Actresses' paniers, and the Greek head-dress Mme. de L tori res D'H le arrives frozen at the Caf Procope Waterproofs Finishing touches Fans and fan-makers in the seventeenth century What Mme. de Sta UHolstein thought of fans Transition 143

H

It is to a Venetian ambassador, an observer of French fashions towards the time of Charles the Ninth's death, that we are indebted for the above interesting details. He adds French women have inconceivably slender waists they swell out their gowns from the waists downwards by stiffened stuffs and vertugadins, the which increases the elegance of their figure. They are very fanciful about their shoes, whether low slippers or escarpins. The cotillon (underskirt), which in Venice we call carpet ta,...

K

Ic Langl e, director of the royal sports, says Mme. de S vign , cc gave to Mme. de Montespan a gown of gold upon gold, embroidered in gold, bordered with gold, above which was a band (frise) of gold, worked in gold mixed with a particular kind of gold and forming the most divine material that can be conceived. All women, including the queen-mother, had made use of masks until the year 1663. This fashion passed away as political adventures gradually ceased. But in 1695 it still prevailed. With...

Chapter Xxvl

Crinoline inaugurates the second era of Imperial fashions The reign of crinoline Starched petticoats Whaleboned petticoats Steel hoops Two camps are formed, one in favour of, and one inimical to crinoline Large collars Marie Antoinette fichus and mantles -Exhibition of 1855 Cashmere shawls Pure cashmeres Indian cashmere shawls Indian woollen shawls Mouzaia shawls Algerian burnouses Pompadour parasols Straight parasols School for fans The fan drill The Queen of Oude's fans The Charlotte Corday...

Chapter Xxvii

Sea-bathing and watering-places Special costumes Travelling-bags Hoods and woollen shawls Convenient style of dress Kid and satin boots high heels Introduction of the several and the Ristori w Expensive pocket-handkerchiefs Waists are worn shorter Zouave, Turkish, and Greek jackets Bonnet-fronts Gold trimmings universally used Tarlatane, tulle, and lace. Fashion does not assert itself only in the ordinary round of life. It frequently enlarges its domain in consequence of some new custom, or, at...

Reign Of Napoleon I

Fashions under the Empire Sacks Personnes cossues A saying of Napoleon's White gowns Valenciennes lace Ball dresses walking dresses Polish toquets and flowers Wenzel's manufactory -'The Offspring of Imposture, Campenon's verses Parisian ladies, as sketched by Horace Vernet Stays Cashmeres Protest by Piis Ternaux assists in establishing the manufacture of cashmere shawls in France Cotton stuffs Richard Lenoir importance of the Rouen manufacture Violets during the Hundred Days The eighteen folds,...

Reign Of Charles Ix

The wars of religion The fashions of Italy are brought across the Alps, and are welcomed in France Effects of the expeditions into Italy Articles from Venice and Genoa are very fashionable- A cloud of sugar-plums, and a shower of scents Effeminate style of dress Charles IX. and his Edicts against extravagant display Fashion rebels against sumptuary laws Women of high rank, bourgeoises, widows, and spinsters Wedding dresses Observations of a Venetian ambassador ' Corps piqu Drawers Paint...

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Clothes English Empire 1500

REIGNS OF LOUIS XI., CHARLES VIII., AND LOUIS XII. Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XI. La grand'gorre, or sumptuosity The troussoire Allegorical and moral costumes Trains Head-dresses Collets rebrass s Wigs and false hair Some results of the war in Italy Italian fashions Sollerets and slippers Gargets Garters Jean Marot writes against novelties-Anne of Brittany Pins Menot the golden-tongued A Parisian in the time of Louis XII. Coat l'Italienne Manufacture of stuffs. The Empire of Fashion...

I270 To 1350

Steven Stipelman Drawings

Severity of feminine costume Long gowns and guimjbes Marguerite of Provenee Fermaux Reappearance of splendour in dress Eastern customs The priests of fashion Haberdashery and peacoelc-feathers Female embroiderers Taste for embroidery Continual temptations Earliest sumptuary laws Furs St. Louis's opinion on dress Prohibitions by Philippe le Bel speech made by his wife Crepine. Owing to the influence of the Crusades and the predilections of St. Louis, the dress of women assumed much of that...

To 1814

Fashions under the Empire Sacks Personnes cossues A saying of Napoleon's White gowns Valenciennes lace Ball dresses walking dresses Polish toquets and flowers Wenzel's manufactory The Offspring of Imposture, Campenon's verses Parisian ladies, as sketched by Horace Vernet Stays Cashmeres Protest by Piis Ternaux assists in establishing the manufacture of cashmere shawls 111 France Cotton stuffs Richard Lenoir importance of the Rouen manufacture Violets during the Hundred Days The eighteen folds,...

Reign Of Francis I

Fashion Illustration Egyptian

A speech of Charles V. The king's liberality Order of the Cordeliere Word-paintings of the fashions of the day, Ly Rabelais Costumes of the hoche-plis or vertugadin Mme. de Tressan saves her cousin's life Satires and songs Mdlle. de Lacepede Conte-nances Silk shoes with slashes Head-dress called a passe-filon Increase of love of dress The bean-flower Artistic head-dresses Twists of hair called ratraprenades Ferronieres Coaches in Paris their influence on the fashions....

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Byzantine Clothing

The art of flower-making has made some progress since 1738 and 1802, and it may be said that artificial flowers are indispensable to an elegant costume. The Empire was the period of toquets in embroidered tulle. Horace Vernet, the great painter, although very young in 1813, has portrayed Les Dames de Paris in the reign of the first Napoleon. Nothing seems to us more hideous than their hats and feathers, their sleeves tight to the wrist, and the embroidery on their gowns. Mme. de Stael's Corinne...

Chapter Ii

Byzantine Clothes For Women

Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the Franks Customs of the latter The Merovingians Costumes of skins and felt cloaks and camlets The coif, the veil, the skull-cap, the guimpe, the cape Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn themselves with flowers Various articles of dress The suint Young girls dress their hair without ornaments St. Rad gonde The hair of married women. The influence of political events on costume is more decisive than is generally supposed. Caesar's conquest of...

Reign Of Francis Ii

Byzantine Clothes For Women

The earliest queens of fashion Mary Stuart's costumes her jewels Description of bodices and sleeves of that period Crosses The loup or small mask Coiffure en raquette An anecdote concerning high heels Regulations respecting fashion Remark of a lady of our own day on distinctions in dress Exordium of the Edict of July 12,1549 Maximum of marriage portions The first knitted silk stockings. Women of celebrity exercise a great influence on dress in general and certain historical personages of the...

Fashions Of The Present

Byzantine Empire Black People Art

Dinner, casino, and ball dresses in 1875 Importation of false hair Manufacture in France Modification of waterproofs Estelle bonnets Tunic aprons Cuirass bodices Montespan sleeves 1 'Saut-du-lit Shoes of past times Bonnes-femmes pockets Henri III. plumes Inez veils Ribbons and flowers Heavy style of dress Pouf petticoats Composite fashions of 1876 Armenian toques Ophelia bonnets Danichef bonnets Mdlle. Bettina Rothschild's wedding trousseau A splendid parasol Gondolier hair-nets 41 Baby sashes...

The Carlovingian Period

Reign of Charlemagne The women of the tenth eentury wear two tunics Judith's belt -A veil is obligatory Miniatures in the Mazarin Library Charles the Bald's Bible Shoes Dress of Queen Lutgarde Dress of Rotrude and Bertha Gisla and other kinswomen of the Emperor The successors of Charlemagne Cannes Adelaide of Vermandois The dress of widows. The reign of Charlemagne, and the passing away of the first race of our kings, to be succeeded by the second, made no essential difference as to dress. We...

Reign Of Henri Il

Goffered Headdress

The ruff A satirical print of the time Catherine de M dicis eats soup The Italian taste Regulations for dress Crimson Who shall wear silk Lines on velvet, by Ronsard Rotonde Collet mont Spring-water Style of gowns and head-dresses Wired sleeves Girdles Caps, bonnets, and hoods The touret de nez The coffin roupies Shoes A quotation from Rabelais. Th e taste for display had received an irresistible impulse dress was a fascinating pursuit, and one well adapted to our...

Introduction

Various definitions of fashion The grave side of its history Quotations from the poets-Character of Frenchwomen The refinement of their tastes and fancies Paris the temple of fashion The provinces Mile. Mars' yellow gown The causes of fashion A saying of Mine, de Girardin's A remark of Mrs. Trollope's The dress of actresses Earliest theories of fashion The Gynseceum of Amman First appearance of the Journal des Dames et des Modes Latnesangere Other publications An anecdote concerning dolls Plan...

La Poule D Inde En Falbala

Mesopotamia Clothing Palaces

Painted faces Reply of a Turkish ambassador Ineffectual criticism Mme. Turcaret's pretintailles Mme. Bonnet's law-suit Brocaded materials Andriennes Criardes Return of hoops arid paniers A sailor's leap Actresses'paniers, and the Greek head-dress Mme. de L tori res D'H le arrives frozen at the Caf Procope Waterproofs Finishing touches Fans and fan-makers in the seventeenth century What Mme. de Sta l-Holstein thought of fans Transition. The women of this district Versailles ' writes La Bruy re,...

The Third Republic

The years 1870 and 1871 The siege of Paris General mourning Simplicity and economy Parisian velvet and pekin A concert costume A cloth costume Alsatian bows and costumes Soirees at the Presidency Marie Stuart and Michael Angelo bonnets Hunting stockings Rabagas hats The years 1872 and 1873 Fan parasols Leopold Robert bonnets The year 1873 Return of luxury Regent belts and sovereign costumes The burning of the Opera House Sale on behalf of those made orphans by the war The ball for the Lyons...

Reign Of Louis

Louis XIV. commands Court luxury and pleasure disguises The Temple jewellery Fashion and etiquette Successive fashions Royal edicts The Tombeau du sens commun Dress of La Valli re Of Mme. de Montespan Costume of a lady of rank in 1668 The chelles de Mme. de la Champagne, the hair-dresser Female hair-dressers Hurluberlus and Mme. de S vign Moustaches for women patches Palatines Slippers high heels Corsets fans sweet lemons Dog-muffs Hair dressed la Fontanges English style of dressing hair Esther...

Chapter Xxix

Sunshades, en-tout-cas, metis, in 1862 Sailors' jackets, jerseys, and pilot-jackets-Princess or demi-princess gowns Swiss bodices corset or postillion belts Lydia and Lalla Rookh jackets Vespertina opera cloaks Lungchamps is no more Bois de Boulogne Russian or Garibaldi bodices Paletot vest Empress Delt 1885 patents for inventions regarding dress are taken out in 1864 Victoria skeleton skirts, Indian stays, train-supporters Titian -coloured hair The Peplum in 1866 Epicycloide steels aquarium...

Reigns Of Henri Iv And Louis Xiii

Destined Reign Images

Universal mourning on the death of the Guises intolerance of showy dress Vertugadins, espoitrement, corps espagnole Diversity of colours The pearls, jewels, and diamonds belonging to Gabrielle d'Estrees and to the queen Dress of Marguerite de France Low-cut bodices Head-dresses of hair Various styles -Venetian slippers Edicts of Louis XII. Caricatures Pompe funebre de la Mode Words and fashions Ribbons or galants Dress of widows Demi-ceint girdles Gloves of all sorts Patches Masks their use...

The Gallic And Galloroman Period

Unsupported Hypothesis

Gallic period Woad, or the pastel Tunics and boulgetes 1 Mavors and Palla- Cleanliness of the Gallic women The froth of beer or kourou The women of Marseilles their marriage-portions Gallo-Roman period 1The Roman garment The stola -Refinement of elegance Extravagant luxury of women Artificial aids A vestiaire or wardrobe-room of the period Shoes Jewels and ornaments The amber and crystal ball Influence of the barbarians. We learn with horror from ancient writers that certain women of Gaul were...

What Is A Gros D Afrique Dress

Tricoloured stuffs of 1848 Girondin mantles Open gowns Summer dresses Kasawecks and their derivatives Beaver bonnets velvet bonnets, and satin or crape drawn bonnets Cloches, Cornelia, Moldavian, and Josephine cloaks mantles Isly green Opera cloaks Numerous styles of dressing the hair a la Marie Stuart, a la Valois, Leda, Proserpine, and Ceres Marquise parasols Jewellery Straw bonnets Orleans'' and armure Work reticule or bag Chines Pagoda sleeves Waistcoats basque bodices New and economical...

1848 Revolutions Fancy Dress

The Revolution of July, 1830 Fasnions in Louis Philippe's reign Microscopical bonnets, called bibis, cabriolets Variety of caps Fashions of the Middle Ages and of the Renaissance The stage Historic costumes Influence of Rachel, the actress Greek and Roman fashions Colours Various designations of materials Bedouin sleeves Bonnets and head-dresses Pamela bonnets Novel eccentricities Taglioni gowns, gathered k la Vierge, laced lt h la Niobe, amp c. 'The Sylvestrine Costumes to be worn on occasions...

Reigns Of Charles Vi And Charles

Costume Designer Ancient Egypt

Taste in dress becomes purer Heart-shaped head-coverings, the cornette, and the hennin in the reign of Charles VI. Husbands complain Preachers denounce Thomas Connecte declaims against the diabolic invention Brother Richard tries to reform it The hennin gains the victory Costume of Jeanne de Bourbon EscofTion An absurd figure Gravou re Isabeau de Bavi re Gorg aset s Tripes Splendour of the court Agnes Sorel Coiffe adourn e diamonds the carcan Walking-sticks. It is a curious fact, of more...

Q

Native American Loincloth

Crinolines, were ready to wear starched and flounced petticoats, less ungraceful indeed than horsehair, but extremely inconvenient. The essential point was to increase the size of the figure, to conceal thinness, and, above all, to go with the stream. Some very fashionable women invented a whaleboned skirt, not unlike a bee-hive. The largest circumference was round the hips, whence the rest of the dress fell in perpendicular lines. Others preferred hoops arranged like those on a barrel. The...

The French Republic

The year 1789 Masculine style of dress The double dress vanishes Caps la grande pr tresse, la pierrot, and la laiti re The pouf n bonnet - Paint and powder disappear Prediction by the Cabinet des Modes Anonymous caps Cap lt c la Charlotte Corday Trinkets la Bastille Mme. de Genlis' locket Cap la Bastille Federal uniforms Claims to equality in dress Reaction under the Directory Incroyables and merveilleuses Coiffures la victime and la Titus Blond wigs and black wigs The H tel Th lusson Which is...

Reign Of Louis Xv

Costume Louis

The Regency War is declared against paniers The Oratorian Duguet Opinion of the Journal de Verdun Various publications against paniers Lines by Voltaire Whale-fishery company Paragraph from the Journal de Barbier Mmes. Jaucourt, De Seine, Del isle, Clairon, and Hus Lines in praise of corsets New bodices Coloured prints are forbidden Perses or Persiennes Bagnolette Adjuncts of dress necklaces, ridicules, and poupottes Contents of a patch-box A sermon by Massillon Les mouches de Mas sillon, or...

Louis Xvi Fashion

The influence of Marie Antoinette on fashion Letter from Maria Theresa L onard and Mdlle. Bertin Various styles of head-dresses Pouf The Journal de Paris Reign of Louis XVI. Male and female hair-dressers Plumes Hair worn low The queen's puce -coloured gown shades of colour in dresses Oberkampf and the Jouy prints Expensive satins Trimmings, their great number and importance Gauze, blond, tulle, and ribbons Some kinds of ribbons A dress worn at the opera . .161

Louis Xiv Costume

Louis XIV. commands Court luxury and pleasure disguises The Temple jewellery Fashion and etiquette Successive fashions Royal edicts The Tombeau du sens commun Dress of La Val lie re Of Mme. de Montespan Costume of a lady of rank in 1668 The chelles de Mme. de la Reynie1' Transparencies Manufactures Champagne, the hair-dresser Female hair-dressers Hurluberlus and Mme. de S vign Moustaches for women patches Palatines Slippers high heels Corsets fens sweet lemons Dog-muffs Hair dressed la...