S

Sabrina, 4: 784 Sack gown, 3: 572 Sack suit, 4: 683-84

Safeguards, 3: 478

Sahag, John, 5: 1002

Saint Laurent, Yves, 5: 910-11,

911 (ill.), 920, 926, 929 Sainte-Marie, Buffy, 5: 909 Sakkos and sphendone, 1: 142 Salville Row, 4: 786 Samite, 2: 262-63, 270 Samoa, 2: 341 (ill.) Samurai, 2: 208-9, 209 (ill.), 215 Sandals, 1: 46-47, 46 (ill.), 65 (ill.), 66-67, 157-58, 158 (ill.). See also Footwear 1919-1929, 4:773 African, 2: 443 Birkenstocks, 5: 957, 958-60,

959 (ill.) Egyptian, 1: 46-47, 46 (ill.) Greek, 1: 157-58, 158 (ill.) Mesopotamian, 1: 65 (ill.),

66-67 Native American, 2: 385 Oceania, 2: 349 platform, 4: 833 prehistoric, 1: 13 Roman, 1: 198, 198 (ill.) T-strap, 4:774-75, 777, 777 (ill.); 5: 1015 Sant'Angelo, Giorgio di, 5: 909 Sardou, Victorien, 4: 758 Sari, 1: 87-88, 88 (ill.) Sarongs, 4: 801-2, 802 (ill.) Sassoon, Vidal, 5: 941-42 Satin, 4: 726, 730 Saturday Night Fever, 5: 919, 919

Scarification, 2: 343, 345, 433,

Schiaparelli, Elsa, 4: 766, 787 Schick, Jacob, 4: 819 Schwarzkopf, Norman, 4: 690 Seals, Fobs and, 3: 648 Sears and Roebuck, 4: 687, 708,

729, 784; 5: 849 Seasonal clothing, 1: 167. See also specific clothing

Sebastian, John, 5: 931 Seersucker, 4: 728 Sellers, Peter, 4: 690 The Seven Samurai, 2: 209 Seventeenth century, 3: 505-50 body decorations, 3: 535-36, 535 (ill.), 537 (ill.), 538 (ill.), 539 (ill.), 541 (ill.) clothing, 3: 511-28, 514 (ill.), 518 (ill.), 520 (ill.), 523 (ill.), 524 (ill.), 525 (ill.), 526 (ill.) culture, 3: 505-9 footwear, 3: 545-50, 548 (ill.),

549 (ill.) headwear, 3: 529-30, 529 (ill.) 77 Sunset Strip, 5: 875 Sewage, 3: 494

(ill.); 4: 679-80 Sex in advertising, 5: 978 Sex Pistols, 5: 946 Shang dynasty, 2: 206 S-shape silhouette, 4: 665, 682,

686, 687 (ill.) Shaving. See also Beards

753 (ill.) 1930-1945, 4: 817-18 Africa, 2: 429 Egyptian, 1: 37 India, 1: 92

Native Americans, 2: 369-70 Oceania, 2: 341 Shaw, George Bernard, 4: 689 Shawl, 1: 56-57 Sheherazade, 4: 807 Shields, Brooke, 5: 985 (ill.), 986 Shingle, 4: 760-61, 760 (ill.) Shirts.

1900-1918, 4: 726 1930-1945, 4: 798 bases, 3: 473, 473 (ill.) eighteenth century, 3: 555 mandarin, 2: 230-32 polo, 4: 797-98 sixteenth century, 3: 472 sweatshirts, 5: 994-95

T-shirt, 4: 808-10, 809 (ill.); 5: 851, 898, 903, 930-31, 970

Shirtwaist, 4: 664, 685-88, 685

(ill.), 687 (ill.) Shoe decoration, 3: 549-50, 549 (ill.)

Shoes. See Footwear Shoes (book), 4: 837 Short hair for women, 4: 761-62,

761 (ill.) Sideburns, 3: 638-39 Signet ring, 1: 195-96 Silhouettes, 4: 665, 682-83, 686,

687 (ill.) Sikh religion, 1: 93, 94 Silk, 2: 226, 262-63, 270, 414; 3:

451, 555; 4: 726 Silver, 2: 269, 378 Simpson, Wallis, 4: 793 Sinatra, Nancy, 5: 964 Singer, Isaac, 3: 601 Single White Female, 5: 886 Sixteenth century, 3: 465-504 body decorations, 3: 493-99,

498 (ill.), 499 (ill.) clothing, 3:469-86, 470 (ill.), 473 (ill.), 475 (ill.), 479 (ill.), 480 (ill.), 483 (ill.), 485 (ill.) culture, 3: 465-67, 466 (ill.) footwear, 3: 501-3, 501 (ill.) headwear, 3: 487-91, 488 (ill.), 489 (ill.) Siyala, 2: 441-42 Skin cancer, 5: 955 Skirt, 2: 366-67

1919-1929, 4: 725, 725 (ill.) 1946-1960, 5: 847, 848 (ill.) A-line, 4: 685, 685 (ill.);

5: 901 bases, 3: 473, 473 (ill.) hobble skirts, 4: 667, 676-77,

921 (ill.) Native American, 2: 366-67 peg-top, 4: 682-83

Slashing, Dagging and, 3: 452-53

Slavery, 1: 63; 2: 331 Sleeves, 3: 484-86, 485 (ill.) Slippers, 3: 597, 654, 656-57, 656 (ill.) Smith, Alfred E., 3: 634 Smoking, 4: 727

Social Contract, 3: 553 Soldier dress. See Military dress Solea, 1: 203-4 Song dynasty, 2: 212, 217 "The Song of Hiawatha," 2: 384 Songhay empire, 2: 408 South America, 2: 329-31,

389-406 Southeast Native Americans, 2: 352 Southwest Native Americans, 2:

352, 378 Soviet Union. See Union of Soviet

Socialist Republics Spain, 3: 466

Spandex, 5: 978, 992-94, 993 (ill.) Spartans, 1: 116, 131, 155 Spats, 4: 773, 775-77, 776 (ill.) Speakeasies, 4: 724 Spears, Britney, 5: 913, 914, 978 Spectator sports style, 4: 728,

741-42 Sperry, Paul, 5: 886 Sphendone, Sakkos and, 1: 142 Spices, 1: 153 Spinning jennies, 3: 600 Spirit of St. Louis, 4: 742 Spoon bonnets, 3: 639-40, 640 (ill.)

Sports bras, 4: 672 Sportswear, 4: 728, 744-45 athletic union suits, 4: 691 bloomers, 4: 669-70, 669 (ill.) knickers, 4: 681 spectator, 4: 741-42 tennis costumes, 3: 628-30, 629 (ill.) Spread collars, 4: 674 S.S. Panzer Nazis, 4: 788 St. Laurent, Yves, 2: 416

Standing bands, Falling and, 3: 519-20

Stanley, Edward, 4: 756 Star Wars, 2: 209 Steel, Valerie, 2: 213; 5: 860 Steeple headdress, 2: 312,

317-18, 318 (ill.) Stetson, John B., 3: 614 Stevens, Connie, 5: 875 Stewart, Rod, 5: 914 Stiletto heel, 5: 883, 885-86, 885 (ill.)

5: 972, 978 Stockings, 4: 803-4, 803 (ill.); 5: 927-28. See also Hose and breeches; Nylon stockings Stola, 1: 176-77; 2: 261, 262 (ill.), 265 (ill.), 266 Stomacher, 3: 524-26, 525 (ill.) Storm coats. See Trench coats Strauss, Levi, 3: 613 A Streetcar Named Desire, 4: 809 Subarctic Native Americans, 2:

352, 353 Subligaculum, 1: 177 Suede Buc, 4: 837-38 Sugar-loaf hats, 3: 457 Sui dynasty, 2: 231 Suits

Armani, 5: 980-82, 981 (ill.) gray flannel, 5: 857-58, 858 (ill.)

857-58, 858 (ill.) sack, 4: 683-84 tailored, 4: 747-49, 748 (ill.); 5: 972

63, 66 Summer, Donna, 5: 914 Sumptuary laws, 1: 162, 166; 3:

484, 507, 515 Sundback, Gideon, 4: 692 Sunlamps, 5: 955

Sunless tanning lotion, 5: 1011

Sutherland, Lucy Christiana, 4: 704 Swanson, Gloria, 4: 784 Swastikas, 4: 789 Sweatshirts, 5: 994-95, 994 (ill.) Swim trunks for men, 4: 805-6 Swimwear, 3: 608-10, 609 (ill.); 4: 745-46, 746 (ill.), 805-6; 5: 853-55 Swiss soldiers, 3: 451

Tabard, 2: 309-10, 309 (ill.) Tabis, 2: 252-53, 252 (ill.) Taffeta, 4: 730 Tahiti, 2: 331 (ill.) Tailored suit for women, 4:

747-49, 748 (ill.); 5: 972 Tailor-mades, 4: 685-86 Tailors, 2: 298-300; 4: 794 Taj Mahal, 1: 70 (ill.) Takada, Kenzo, 5: 979 Tang dynasty, 2: 231, 247 Tanning, 5: 953-56, 954 (ill.), 1011

Tattooing, 2: 244-46, 343, 343 (ill.), 346-47, 346 (ill.), 377-78, 381-82; 5:1012-13, 1012 (ill.) Asian, 2: 244-46 henna, 1: 99 Mayans, 2: 401 Native American, 2: 377-78,

381-82 Oceania, 2: 343, 343 (ill.), 346-47, 346 (ill.) Taylor, Charles H. "Chuck," 4:

715-16 Taylor, Elizabeth, 5: 886, 953 Tebennas, 1: 171 (ill.) Teeth, 3: 584 Telegraph, 3: 602 Television shows. See specific shows

Temple, Shirley, 4: 785 Temple of Juno, 1: 115 (ill.) Tennessee top hat, 5: 1001 Tennis costume, 3: 628-30, 629 (ill.)

That Girl, 5: 940 That Touch of Mink, 5: 856-57 Thatcher, Margaret, 5: 972 Theater, 2: 209, 239-40, 241-44,

242 (ill.), 251 Theodora (Roman Empress), 2: 265 (ill.) Theodosius (Roman Emperor),

Thimmonier, Barthelemy, 3: 601 Thinsulate, 5: 908 Thirty Years' War, 3: 505 Thomas, Marlo, 5: 940 Thompson, E. A., 2: 277 Thoth (Egyptian god), 1: 18 Three-piece suits. See Sack suit Tie-dye, 5: 930-31, 930 (ill.) Ties. See Neckties Tilak forehead markings, 1: 98 Tilden, Bill, 4: 744 Titus cut, 3: 580-81 Toga, 1:166, 166 (ill.), 178-80,

178 (ill.); 2: 261 Tokugawa shogunate, 2: 209—10, 224

Toltecs, 2: 394

Tombs. See Burial sites

Tonsure, 2: 318-19

Top boots, 4: 678

4: 678 Top-Siders, 5: 886-87 Townshend, Pete, 5: 895 Trade

Byzantine Empire, 2: 258 India, 1: 71-72 industrial revolution, 3: 600, 602

Native Americans, 2: 378

sixteenth century, 3: 465, 469 Trainer shoes, 5: 1015, 1019-22, 1021 (ill.) Travel, 3: 602

Tricorne hat, 3: 532-33, 532 (ill.) Troop trainers, 5: 1021 Trousers, 3: 572-73. See also Pants 1919-1929, 4:726 eighteenth century, 3: 572-73 Gauls, 1: 165, 168, 173 Middle Ages, 2: 298 nomads/barbarians, 2: 282 Persia, 1: 55 Rome, 1: 173 women's, 4: 806-8 Trousers for women, 4: 806-8 Troy, New York, 4: 673 Tse-tung, Mao, 2: 207-8, 214 T-shirt, 4: 808-10, 809 (ill.); 5:

851, 898, 903, 930-31, 970 T-strap sandals, 4: 774-75, 777,

777 (ill.); 5:1015 Tunic, 1: 29-30, 29 (ill.); 2: 397 Byzantine Empire, 2: 261 Doric chitons, 1: 124-26 Egyptian, 1: 29-30, 29 (ill.) eighteenth century, 3: 571 Mayan, Aztec, and Incas, 2: 397

Middle Ages, 2: 297-98, 299 nomads/barbarians, 2: 282 prehistoric, 1: 6 Tunica, 1: 166 (ill.), 180-82 Turbans, 1: 60-61, 60 (ill.), 92-94, 93 (ill.); 2: 268, 268 (ill.); 4: 726 Tutankhamun (King of Egypt ), 1: 19-20, 22 (ill.), 33, 33 (ill.), 41, 47; 4: 763, 769 Tuxedo Park, New York, 3:

UCPA (United Cerebral Palsy

Association), 5: 983 The Unbelievables, 3: 571, 583 Underwear. See also Bloomers; Brassiere Calvin Klein, 5: 977 for men, 4: 690-91 subligaculum, 1: 177 undershirts, 4: 785 Underwear for men, 4: 690-91 Union of Soviet Socialist Republics, 5: 842, 843, 889, 969, 971 Union suits, 4: 690 Unitas, Johnny, 5: 871 (ill.) United Cerebral Palsy Association

(UCPA), 5: 983 United States. See specific time periods

Universal Fastener Company, 4: 692

Universities, 4: 722-23, 727. See also Oxfords Urban Cowboy, 5: 1017 Usuta, 2: 406

Utility clothing, British, 4: 799, 800

Uttariya, 1: 89-90

Valentino, Rudolph, 4: 759; 5: 972

Vallee, Rudy, 4: 740 Van Der Zee, James, 4: 740 Vandals, 2: 275 Vanderbilt, Gloria, 5: 986 Vanity Rules, 5: 881 Vedder, Eddie, 5: 989 Veils, 1: 61-62

driving and, 4: 675 fifteenth century, 3: 457 Mesopotamian, 1: 61-62 Muslim, 1: 62, 84, 85, 86 Velour, 5: 932 Velvet, 4: 730 Versace, Gianni, 5: 906 Vests, 4: 684; 5: 906-8, 907 (ill.) Victoria (Queen of England), 3:

601, 608-9; 4: 826 Viet Nam Generation, 5: 942 Vietnam War, 4: 829, 836; 5:

Vionnet, Madeleine, 4: 726, 787 Visconti, Simonetta, 5: 849 Visgoths. See Goths Vivier, Roger, 5: 885 Vogue, 3: 512; 4: 792, 807; 5:

845, 896, 924 Vogue History of 20th Century

Fashion, 4: 825 Voigtlander, J. F., 3: 650 Voltaire, 3: 553 Vreeland, Diana, 5: 933

Walgreen drugstores, 4: 723

Walker, Colonel Lewis, 4: 692

War of the Spanish Succession, 3: 553

War Production Board, 4: 798, 800

Warner Brothers Corset Company, 4: 671

Watches, 3: 585-86, 583 (ill.), 648; 4: 709-11, 710 (ill.)

Wealth, 1: 161-63; 3: 469-71 Weatherproof clothing driving clothes and, 4: 674-75 trench coats, 4: 688-90 Weaving, 2: 337 Weejuns, 4: 839 Weismuller, Johnny, 4: 806 Welch, Raquel, 5: 855 Western dress. See also specific Western countries Africa, 2: 411, 411 (ill.), 443 Native Americans, 2: 358 Western Europe, 2: 277 (ill.). See also Europe, fifteenth century; Europe, Middle Ages Whisk, 3: 527-28 White bucs, 4: 833 White-collar workers, 4: 674 White rands, 3: 545-46 White tie occasions, 3: 620 Whiteface makeup, 2: 241-44,

242 (ill.) Whitney, Eli, 3: 600 Who (musical group), 5: 895 Wigs, 1: 31, 32, 35-36, 35 (ill.), 188-89; 3: 529, 529 (ill.), 533-34, 534 (ill.), 642-43. See also Hairstyles Egyptian, 1: 31, 32, 35-36, 35 (ill.)

eighteenth century, 3: 576

nineteenth century, 3: 642-43 Roman, 1: 188-89 seventeenth century, 3: 529,

529 (ill.), 533-34, 534 (ill.) sixteenth century, 3: 488 The Wild Affair, 5: 941 Wilde, Oscar, 4: 753 William III (King of England), 3: 506

William the Conqueror, 2: 294 (ill.)

Wing collars, 4: 673

The Wizard ofOz, 4: 784 Women. See also specific items of clothing and time periods Babylonians, 1: 84 hats, 4: 702-4, 703 (ill.) Muslim, 1: 75 (ill.), 76-78, 77

761 (ill.) suits, 4:726, 747-49, 812-13 trousers, 4: 806-8 veils, 1: 61-62 Women's dresses, 4: 729, 810-11, 810 (ill.) Women's hats, 4: 702-4, 703 (ill.) Women's movement, 4: 660-61, 666; 5: 890 1919-1929, 4:722, 723 (ill.),

725-26, 725 (ill.), 737 bras and, 4: 672 Gibson girl and, 4: 686 Women's suits, 4: 726, 747-49,

Woodstock Concert, 5: 903 Wool, 1: 121; 2: 278, 281-82,

297-98 Woolley, Linda, 4: 837 Working classes, 4: 659-60, 674.

See also Working women Working women

Gibson girl, 4: 686-88 wartime, 4: 666, 720, 722, 807, 808, 820 World Trade Center, 5: 971 World War I, 4: 659-62, 666 body decorations after, 4: 762 causes of, 4: 783 hairstyles after, 4: 761 post, 4:721, 727, 773 trench coats, 4: 689 World War II

atomic bombs in, 4: 783

effects of, 4: 781, 787 fabric shortages, 4: 790, 792, 799

House of Chanel, 4: 767 military boots, 4: 835, 836 rationing, 4: 821 uniforms, 4: 796 U.S. entry into, 4: 798-801 Worth, Charles Frederick, 3: 606, 607

Woven fabrics. See also Cloth Ghana, 2: 414 Greece, 1: 121 Incas, 2: 393 India, 1: 76

industrial revolution, 3: 602 Native Americans, 2: 360 nomads/barbarians, 2: 282 Wrap dress, 5: 933-34, 933 (ill.) Wreaths, 1: 143-44, 143 (ill.) Wristwatches. See Watches

Xi Ling-Shi (Empress of China), 2: 226 Xia dynasty, 2: 206, 212

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