T

Ord Chesterfield once described dress as the style of thought if that is true, then accessories act as punctuation, sometimes providing a point of exclamation, other times signaling a transition from one colorful phrase to another. Just as no serious writer undermines his prose by neglecting essential commas and dashes, no true elegante ignores the opportunity to better communicate his own style. Here's a Gallic character trying to get a leg up, in J J this case, two legs, on the competition....

Key C Lo S To C Mp Ex On

S.i Ijpo. iKwJ ,.J hair ) is iw 4r.nu WvcvWt * f l tWx< . > h VJ lv- *< t I* < > .mictiii . i Mr . M< .l > th jngM i W< il. li ,.,< > ,( - . TV< < r.,lfj i> T*> fi> n.-l i- . - . .Ill PJ. . , < V. .4 fcb.1 f ii i iWco w,ri .hMit. - J li Vb.IINIMKihirti IVntiRtT iWiuiMra*CM fRwii tftri (Wk Cw . 11 u 1 f*r i.-.lv. wwwfe* in ter II, .1., yV. lo CW .1.1. l< nmwj M I aim Magazines keyed fashion color stories to different complexions. THE ABC'S OF A PERSONAL COLOR...

J

Dress Shirt Company Names

Hilc a dark sport jacket can make any man look more professional, dress down business casual removes the protective w rapping of such tailored refuge to reveal what's underneath Built on the foundation of the sport shirt and trouser combination, this category varies in dressiness from a high quality cotton dress or sport shirt atop dark wool trousers to a pair of well pressed khakis or crisp jeans below a fine gauge, long sleeve, cut and sewn knit shirt. s long as classic fabrics and patterns...

A

Bullying Because Skin Color

I though less graphic in content, the muted or toned visage demands more vigilance and skill to enliven. Due to its lower tolerance for too noisy or overly quiet color mixes, the muted facial type invites anonymity if not handled with appropriate care Just as watercolors need a lighter frame to complement what they enclose, so does John's low key frontage. Without a contrasting dark hair shade to counterbalance the opposition underneath. John's muted complexion is bullied into...

F

.rom hnr crca.sc ro rrouser cuff, the art of male habiliment can be divided into a series of mini-portraitures, the most southern being the rendezvous of trouscr. hose, and shoe. To effect a permanently smart aesthetic below one's knee, certain rules of proportion must be respected. Once again, it is the body rather than fashion that should take the lead the general rule of thumb being that the rrouser bottom should cover about two thirds of the shoe. Narrow trouscr bottoms make large feet loom...

Info

The color and pattern of a man s hose are the sartorial syntax that can conn* i thev tw o textural outposts. By reiterating at floor level a color or pattern found near the face thi sil houette s upper and lower zones begin to network with each other, prompting the vievw r is to take in the whole picture. lew artists captured Manhattan's cafe MKriety with a> much wit u d stylishness as Peter Arno. so it is no surprise that he knew how to emplov the vertical line tor optimal el feet. I le s...

Modernizing The Suit

Fashion Designing Necklines Sketches

Classic necklines of the round tee and Vneck sweater. Dressing up the dressed down neckline In the rush to expand the sartorial boundaries of the suit certain guidelines get tram pled upon. For instance, trying to make a suit jacket double as a sport jacket generally leaves sou with neither Suit coats tend to retain their dressy probity by irtue of their fabrics' smooth sur faces and their flatter, polished buttons. The exceptions to this rule would be the classic cotton gabardine or the larger...

Soles of comfort

. he first shoes were little more than soles, constructed from leather or wood Roughh shaped w ithout designation to the right or left foot, they were secured by straps or similar fas tenings thai kept them from falling off I earlier proved durable, readily available, and more pli able than wood. When shoes became enclosed, leather's prominence increased because it was one of the few coverings that allowed air to circulate w hile affording the foot maximum protection against the elements. I...

Formalwe

Sketches Mens Dress Shirts

Trousers, with one exception a slightly wider single decorative band replaces the formal trousers two small strips on its outer leg seams. If the jacket's lapel facings are satin, the texture of the trousers' side trim must follow suit. I lowever, if the jacket's lapels are trimmed in grosgrain a matching grosgrain or a slightly narrower band w ith a raised rib effect are equally correct Like the tailcoat trouser. its bottom is never cuffed. T he I red Astaire Ginger Rogers movie Sluill c )mce...

Users

Postwar Prosperity

In the period following World Wnr 1. discharged veterans thronged to department stores and haberdashers to make up for the deprivation suffered in the distant trenches of Europe.' flie era of flaming youth was unfolding, and never before was the American man more inclined to try something new and different. I lie postwar obsession with sports and outdoor activities encouraged fashion experimentation. with the main arena being sports clothes. The New York elegance ol the period meant looking...

Dinner jacket dogma

Oleg Cassini Tuxedos

S the direct descendant of the tailcoat, the single-breasted dinner jacket with upward sweeping peaked lapels invests all men with prominence and height. With only one waist button to fasten, it necessitates a waistcoat or cummer bund to cover the trousers' exposed waistband. I or those who don't object to wearing their jacket buttoned. the double breasted dinner jacket offers equal distinction while dispensing with the additional layer of a waistcoat or cummerbund. Flanked by two of cafe...

Tfb

T the beginning of the twenties, the term sport jacket, or odd jacket, was still not in popular usage. The bulk of the male population wore for leisure the jackets, and often the vests, of their business suits with white flannel trousers and white shoes. Whereas the well-dressed man might have secretly hankered for something sartorially more exciting than a suit jacket, most men had simply not progressed to the point where they expected comfort from their clothes. In fact, it was not until 1923...

The suit trouser

JLhe most fortuitous development in recent trouser fashion occurred in the eighties, when pleats and suspenders returned dress trousers to the flattering sanctuary of the mans natural waist. Whether plain-front or pleated, forward- or reverse-pleated, narrow- or full-legged, should a suit trousers' rise be so low that their waistband is obliged to rest between the wearer's natural waist and hip, the ideal balance between suit jacket and trousers will be doomed. Although plain-front trousers...

Mating Two Checks

Fashion Plates From The 17th Century

Don't wear two checks that are similar in scale. tylishly combining two checks requires a bit more savoir faire than combining two stripes. I lowever the risk can be held in check by once again imposing a healtln dose of contrast between the scale of each player, following closely in Mr. Lauren's footsteps (above left) Mr. Agnelli (above right), another men's style innovator of established legend, takes no chances on his two checks clashing, keeping them about as different in size as a hat is...

S

Aiir trousers should extend the line of the jacket. Fuller-chested jackets require fuller cut trousers, just as more fitted jackets mandate slimmer fitting trousers. The proportions of today's average suit have recovered from the hip-hugging jeans mentality ol the sixties and the tighr. low-waisted seventies fashions of the Pierre Cardin era. Today, most suit trousers are pleated (or comfort with a longer rise, allowing them to reside at the wearer's actual waist, and fuller ar the knee than...

E N T S

J uring the last quarter of the twentieth century, men lavished more money on their attire than in any other period of modern history. A stroll down any upscale shopping street would take you past a host of seductive men's emporiums brimming with clothes for every occasion, mood, or taste. Top men's designers became publicly traded global conglomerates. Mens fashion now competed with women's as hig business. With entrepreneurs and self made millionaires in prodigious supply the time had never...

Formula For Handkerchiefs

Kindly suggest colors and designs of handkerchiefs (dress) to wear with combinations of plain color white, blue and brown shirts with blue and white vertical stripe with wide light brown stripe on white and with solid color brown suit grey suit (dark) or with a sport combination of unmatched coat and linen trousers. Breast pockct handkerchiefs may be of similar shade to either the tie worn, its background color, or the colors of its figures or stripes. Alternatively, it may be of a similar...

B

Ecause the straight point collar was the collar shape gracing most military-issued dress shirts si'nee W W I. it has lone been the foundation of the modern man's dress shirt wardrobe. As the most stvlisticalh neutral of all collars, the straight-point collar can be worn with any kind of suit or sport jacket. Ideally, its collar points should finish between 2V4 inches and inches in length. I he narrow opening between its points favors a rounder, oval shaped face, rather t han a narrow one. 1...

The businesscasual sport jacket

Loincloth Skirt

Ith comfort dictating office decorum, the classic sport coat must become more than a vessel of male respectability it needs to combine sweaterlike comfort w ith businesslike proto col Whereas you can update the traditional suit by pairing it with a rurrleneck or T-shirt, trying to recycle those straitjackcts from the seventies or eighties undermines the entire enterprise, because their padded formality belies today's modern casualness. I he most versatile and contemporary jacket sty le is the...

M

This book is a I Ioyle's, a Fowler's, a Webster's, a Baedeker's, a Machiavelli's. a von Glausewitz's guide to men's dress. Alan Flusser provides all the answers most men arc dying to have but wouldn't be caught dead asking for He also provides some lively history and sharp insights into well -dressed folks* ways and mores. P BjL y Beau Brummel was a late-nineteenth-ccntury figure, a famous dandy who r * was considered to be the most stylish and best-dressed man in London society. If Beau were...

Mca Model Shirt Images

Artist Steven Stipelman

A few English lads soak up America's swing music between races. Both the Cambridge and Oxford crewmembers sport their colors atop Oxford bags while the chappy on the right opts for the updated reefer blazer. With blue and white as the imperatives of nautical dress, navy blazers and w hite trousers made a dashing sports out it for the wealthy American man o the 1920s. Being class-conscious, he adopted it as another means ol distinguishing himself from the masses. Whether in a solid color and...

Ben

Reddish Maroon Dress Combination

Nother classic male complexion is fair skin crowned with golden blond hair. Once again, the surest way to ensure your visage its rightlul due is to buck it up with the relevant pageantry, as exemplified by these two fashion plates (right), whose sport jacket and suit ensembles clearly publicize their gilded crowns. Likewise. Alex, who has built his dressing style around his distinctive coloring, makes sure at least one item in each ensemble reflects his gold toned complexion. In his first...

Dress Shirt Aesthetics

n addition to Flattering the wearer, the dress shirt should type w ith an outfit's style and level of formal it) While differing collar styles connote varying degrees of dress up. so do certain shirt fabrics. The sophisticated dresser would not normally pair a sporty button-down with an elegant navy suit nor would lie mate a soigne dress shirt w ith contrasting white collar w ith a casual tweed sport jacket. Although the laissez-faire attitude of modern men's fashion has obfuscated many of...

Fitting The Dress Shirt

Dress Shirt Drawing

Should have no tie space and points long enough to be covered by the jackets neckline. should have no tie space and points long enough to be covered by the jackets neckline. nth the exception of the Italians, who border on t he fetishistic relative to the fit ot their dress shirts, most men wear theirs too tight in the neck, too short in the sleeve, and too full around the wrist. The explanation for this is rel ariveh simple successive washings shrink the collar size and sleeve length, while...

Piecing together the dressup businesscasual

Surrogates Jacket

He dress up business-casual wardrobe revolves around two jacket-oriented scenarios the three piece separates ensemble and the nontie suit outfit Since most men have less e peri ence dressing down a suit than teaming up a sport jacket, let's start with the dark colored sport jacket worn with a cut and sew n or collared knit shirt and a pair of w ell pressed dress slacks IV cause it covers the largest portion ol the body, the jacket sets the color direction for thi rest ol the team. As sport...

Mixing Three Patterns

Onvcntional taste has guided us safely to this vantage point, but scaling the next peak of patterning will require a bit more sartorial rope from this point onward, reward and risk go hand in hand. The safest route to the happy rendezvous of three patterns within one ensemble is where each design differs from the others. Following the same trail that helped us unite unlike patterns, we again rely on the medium of scale to safeguard our footing. Observe Tyrone Powers strategy opposite . By...

Telling tai ls the history

.he modern tailcoat was inaugurated by the famous George Bryan Beau Brummell While other gas dandies of his day wore colorful coats and breeches for evening the eminent lr Brummell donned a navy blue swallowtail coat, black breeches, white waistcoat and shin along w ith a w hire neck cloth and a 6 inch starched collar of his ow n invention Near the end of his reign as the dand definitive, all Londoners turned to somber clothes and haven't looked back since. I he tailcoat has changed very little...

Jlg

-JL Ja s recently as ten years ago, men still spent the majority of their clothing budget on fall-weight suits. Nowadays, courtesy ol high prices and ears ol global warming, it is the mid-weight, eight -month two -piece that monopolizes most of their funds. Perhaps the single largest beneficiary ol recent textile and manufacturing advances is the three-season suit, the workhorse of the male suit wardrobe. Whether untouched by human hands or completely hand-tailored, today's 750-and-up suits are...

Loincloths For

Loincloth For Men Eygpt

The African-American man to get the most out of his clothing combinations, he should approach the enterprise as a medium-to high-contrast complexion, the degree of which is dictated by his individual face's relative depth of color. Ralph Lauren didn't put the black model l son Beck-ford opposite in this highest of high-contrast mantles because of his bland countenance. Beckfbrd's extremely dark skin produces tremendous contrast with any clothing color. Therefore, the brighter and more dramatic...

Neckwear Styles

Butterfly Bow Tie Nineteeth Century

Ascot rhe ascot is the most formal type of necktie known lis name derives from England's Ascot races, held annually in April since r i Although it adheres more close to die earlier types of neckwear than the four in-hand, the ascot still belongs to the genre that tills m the coat front. Worn specifically with formal day clothes the ascot is frequent found in rich silks of subdued colorings and. incidentally, affords the gentleman who wishes to indulge in a display of jewelry the...

Shoes Socks Neckwear

Egyptian Loin Skirt

s mentioned previously, the best dressed men look upon accessories as comrades in the struggle against sarrorial mediocrit Whereas hosier has long fulfilled its hygienic rcspon Nihilities iv .1 guardian of the ankle, it took some time before it could develop into its secondary role .is 1 harmonizer of apparel. The sophisticated man of the 1930s w as accustomed to coordi natinghis headgear with his footwear With this precedent in place, why couldn't hosiery's var ied colors and patterns also...

The blacktie dress shirt

Loincloth For Men Eygpt

Hero are two equally correct genres of dress shirts for the black tic ensemble. I he first and more formal is the white tie evening shirt with starched wing collar, as described earlier The second is the unstarched turndown collar shirt w ith soft pleated fronts and double cults, vet another sartorial contribution from the Prince of Wales. While either formal shirt does just ice to the four classic dinner jacket models, the w ing col lar s high starched points harmonize particularly well with...

Dressing The Hand

V_lure cult design usually evolves along with collar styles, and during the nineteenth century, cuffs and collars shared many features. I ike the blunt, square collar, the shirt cuff was rectangular and stiffly starched. I he cuff could also be single or double, but it was the latter form that came to signify- formality. Separate cuffs, like the detachable collar, could be reversed w hen one edge w as soiled. In the nineteenth century, the cuff was often left unbuttoned at the side and could...

The Foundation

Inappropriately scaled clothing is the root cause lor the contemporary man's current lack of sartorial distinction. Obsolescence in menswear is built upon the manipulation of the classic proportions, sometimes in ways that do nor flatter, as flared bottoms, overly shouldered jackets, and square-toed shoes attest. It is said that the quality of a chef can be judged by his consomme, l ikewise, a man's dressing skill rests on his ability to wear the simplest clothes to individual perfection. This...

I

Lobb Slippers

The Crocodile Shoe The first crxxodilc leather shoe for men was introduced in the spring of 193 . courtesy of one of London's better known boot makers. It met with instant success among well-dressed Englishmen, w ho adopted it tor resort and informal tow n wear. Many Americans visiting I ngland brought the shoe back home to inaugurate the fall fashion season. Like the brow n buckskin shoe, crocodile leather in a dark honey tone affords versatility. Whether in a monk-strap model tor the weekend,...

Dressing down the suit

Checkered Dress Shirt With Suit

K. -A gt cicry s smart set has been sporting suits without ties for many years, as we observe both Car Grant Mow and lack Homier, Jacqueline Kenned Onassiss father opposite , acquitting themselves w ith characteristic aplomb Such a vogue had previously been confined to the 11011 business arena of resort or spectator sportswear however, once Italian designer Giorgio Armani unhitched the suit from its unbending box of a business uniform in the 1980s, wearing it without a tie became both a logical...

The Suit Jacket

Head Shoulder Proportion

Liilo fabrics and patterns usually attract the eye first, the suit's proportions anchor it in time. A suit extreme in silhouette is more likely to go out of style before it falls apart. In assessing a suit jackets potential life span, five elements of design require particular attention these arc the garment's bones. Should the coat s architecture conflict w itli that of the wearer or dev iate too far from the archety pe, the coat s stay ing power will be significantly weakened. the jacket...

Woven Neckwear

Thomas Dean Shirt And Tie

J cause it allows for highly detailed motifs w hile pro idiiig an incomparable richness of hand, the woven silk tie is regarded as the ne plus ultra of male plumage The weaving process tempers a color's innate brilliance by incorporating it into a complex surface interlacing niak ing the woven four in hand the dressiest of all necktie silks Although wxnens represent .1 small percentage of the total neckwear produced each year, they have returned to favor along with hand tailored clothes and...

Coloring up your dressup business wardrobe

Dress Shirt Company Names

Tering fabrics I he easiest way to pull together unmatched separates is through the medium of color good rule of thumb w hen harmonizing three different separates is to keep two pieces in he same color family This approach simplifies the melding process and usually yields a more contemporary image. I or example, pairing this navy corduroy sport coat and navy knit shirr strikes .1 more modern mood left than taking the same blue jacket and wearing a different-color shirt right w ith its gray...

Hmw

X JL Irhough pure white has traditionally been the color of choice for a basic dress shirr medium blue actually flatters more men's faces than white. Pure white can drain away what little natural color men exude. Television producers w ill advise male guests to don a blue dress shirt to compensate for the studio's strong lighting, which tends to flatten and weaken the complexion lust as a mahogany table lends a more expensive aura to the items placed on it medium blue enlivens all men's skin...

Play Your Best Line

Sketches Man Tailored Collars

No of rhe most important but least understood functions ol male attire is to lead the viewer s eye toward the face. Understanding the subtle balance that should exist between a man's most visible and expressive body part his face and the clothes that lead up to it is a prerequisite of fine dressing. B virtue ol its proximity to the face and its configuration of angle, scale, and mass, no article of male apparel is better equipped to enhance a man's countenance than the appropriately shaped...

Accessorizing the dressdown businesscasual outfit

Irh so few garments to help convey a dressed up bearing, each accessor bec lt that much more important. Because of the belted waistline's isibility. relating it in either mood, color, or texture to the footwear below immediate advances the outfit's overall harmony 1 ike wise, echoing ones hair tone in the choice of accessories can also promote the cause Given cloth nigs role in leading the viewer to the observed s communications center, his face reiterating one's hair color at the waistline and...

The Rounded Co Lear

Rounded Club Colar Shirt

He short, still round collar has boon an obligator part of the I ton school uniform siiuc the mid nineteenth century. Originally a separate stiff white collar that attached to .1 banded collar shirt bod , early on the collar signified membership in one of the world's most 1 clusiu-j male clubs, hence its moniker, the club collar The famous rrow collar ads in thecarK twen tieth century helped to elevate this st le of collar to the pantheon of classic dress shirt collars 11 Man As a soli attached...

Duke Windsor Tweed

Oxford Bags

Y the early twenties, the odd trouser had established itself as an essential part of every well- dressed man's wardrobe. However, in 925. American college men vacationing in England were confronted by voluminous pantaloons worn by the Oxford and Cambridge undergraduates to camouflage their knickers, which were not allowed in the classroom. With pleated waistline, baggy knees, and bottoms measuring from 22 to 26 inches, the Oxford bag ignited a fad that swept the country in the space of a year....

Fashion Correctness Of Blue Suit And Black Shoes

Thile black dress shoes have always been considered de rigueur tor dark dressy suitings dark brow n offers equal refinement, if not superior style. Regardless of their luster, black dress shoes will alway s lack the antiqued brow n's deep patina and changing highlights lust as am arti cle placed on a polished mahogany tabletop immediately acquires an expensive aura top qualm brown leather shoes invest all fabrics with an intangible richness In 1936, the leather antiquing process was finally...

The Buttondown Collar

Button Down Dress Shirt With Collar

I nitialh popularized by American sportsmen and Eastern university men during the 1920s and 1930s the oxford button-down is Americas sole contribution to the lexicon of permanent dress shirt fashion Since World War II. European enthusiasts have descended upon the doorstop of its shrine. 346 Madison Avenue, to load up on this unique American classic. Until recently, no elegant male could unfurl his stripes without at least one Brooks Brothers pink oxford gracing his closet. With designer...

Midnight Blue Mohair Dinner Jacket

Lee Radziwill House London

The SB. dinner jacket with peaked lapels OPPOSITE Cole Porter and Doug Fairbanks Jr. in D.B. dinner jackets. in sarin or grosgrain. w ith either shaw i or peaked lapels, per manent fashion is assured. Dinner jacket models that deviate from these four classic archetypes or boast such informal embellish incurs as notched lapels or flap pockets devolve into sar torial oxymorons, convoluting both the forms aesthetic logic and its promise of timeless elegance The w hole idea of a formal suit is to...

The blazer

List as the fancy-back sport jacket was reaching its peak of popularity, the burgeoning appeal rof the plain-back blazer loomed on the horizon. The overwhelming acceptance of the blazer marked the decline of the fancy-back jacket, and by 1938 the plain-back jacket became the lead ing odd jacket style. The first blazers had been part of English cricket club scenery as well as other sporting environs since the t88os. These sport jackets were customarily decorated with stripes in the club's...

The Tab Collar

Tab Collar

He Prince of Wales is generally credited with introducing the tab collar to high society. 1 oming into its own during the late 1920s and early 1930s, it flirted briefly with fashion once main m the 1960s lthough it gt popularity has waned due to the inexorable casual i at ion of male fashion, the tab collar remains a favorite of those seeking that extra nuance ol nattiness. I he tab collar must be designed perfectly for the tie knot to rest comfortably in its open in g Npecial tabs fasten to...

The Shirt Monogram

Monogram Shirt European Style

Hen laundry w as first sent out of the home, the monogram w as used to authenticate ownership. In the heyday of men's fashion, monogrammed braces, initialed belt buckles, and embroidered pocket handkerchiefs were popular gifts from grooms to ushers, while regarded as tokens of affection from the fairer sex. Today, some men consider the display of one's initials somewhat pretentious, w hile others appreciate its as a sign of individuality and quality. Since the dress shirt was considered...

The Suit Waistcoat

Garment Fashion Drawings Suit

.11 tailored men's vests descend from the original postboy waistcoat of nineteenth-century England. Worn by the postboy, or postilion, who rode as a guide on one of the pairs of horses attached to a coach, the garment was intended mainly to provide warmth, so it was usually made of a woolen fabric, front and back, and cut high under the armholes. The waistcoat is technically the most challenging garment to construct satisfactorily. As a high point ol the tailor's craft, it is required to lie...

The pocket handkerchief

Mens Light Color Hankies

From the 1930s right up to today, pockct handkerchiefs remain symbols oj sartorial gentility. 11 Ma 1957 Apparel, rts. the men s fashion bible, declared the pocket handkerchiefs index of fashion change. In other words, w hen elegance periodically returned to the forefront of men s fash ion, so did the pull of pattern in man's breast pocket. As with other artifacts of sartorial polish, like I rench cuffs or a collar bar. the jacket's chest handkerchief adds a finishing touch to the- ensemble...

How To Draw Fashion Sketch

Man Face With Bow Tie

The bow tie should finish within the outer edges of a man s eyes and the outside unes of his face lb wear a bow tie stylishly, two issues should be considered. I irst. its width should not extend beyond the outer edge of a person s face, and definitely not beyond the breadth of his collar. As w ith other neckwear, the shirr s collar should frame the tie's knot Button dow gt w ith some roll or longer straight point or softer semi spread collars w ill happih accommodate the average size bow tie....

And foot

Renaissance Hair Styles And Headgear

He formal shoe is as distinct from other male footwear as the dinner jacket is Irom a suit. I.ike other validations of white or black tie gentility, the formal shoe must imbue the dress trouser with a certain swank while affording the foot enough lightness and comfort to help dance the night away Sometimes shiny, sometimes appointed with a silk bow. yet always appearing more like a slipper than a shoe the formal shoe is the only appropriate way to finish off the formal ensemble. s a vestige of...

The Odd Waistcoat

The Tattersall Vest

Rher rhnn coming upon an odd postboy languishing about one of London's antiquarian men's emporiums, the last time anyone spotted he genuine odd waistcoat tor sale on American shores was back w hen Brooks. Chipp. . Press, and Triplers still basked in Madison Avenue glory. The odd waistcoat was one of the chromosomal WASPs trump cards in his former days of peacockery. A cursory survey into this American tradition begins in 1928. the Gatsby era. with a linen waistcoat in pastel shades of tan....

Dress

Throughout most of the nineteenth century, all gentleman's underclothing wns made of linen. The word linen became a generic term tor a man's underwear. The dress shirt functioned exactly like the modern T-shirt by keeping sweat away from the outer garments while protecting the bodv from the coarse outerwear materials. 1 iowever, propriety demanded that only its collar and cull be visible, hence the term showing linen meant that w hite linen at the neck and hand w as a sign of gentility. As...

Suit Jacket Detailing

Sketches Mens Dress Shirts

Suit Jacket Pockets Early suit pockets were jotted, or flapless. In 1921 the Prince of Wales started yet another trend by reverting to flaps tor his suit coat's lower pockets. Although lie was not the first to wear them, his adoption sanctioned their vogue for his legions of follow ers. Regardless of their style or size, the jacket s side pockets or the top edge of the flap generally line up with the bottom button 011 the coats front. Flapped pockets add a layer ol fabric to the jacket,...

The fulldress waistcoat

Waistcoat With Tab For Pocket Watch

.onnal daws dictates a starched white birds-eye backle pique waist coat in either single or double breasted design. The most traditional model in the single breasted shawl collar with three button closure. The bottom edges of the dress vest's lapels can either be square, rounded, or blunted, with the front general ending in two symmetrical points, though there some flexibility here, as demonstrated by Mr. Top 11 at. White Tie. and Tails himself. Fred Astairc. I lere he sports a replica of the...

The Spread Collar

High Spread Collar Dress Shirt

He spread collar has been the keystone ol the English bespoke look since the double collar came to town during the early 1920s. Its introduction is widely attributed to the famous Prince of Wales, probably due to his alleged creation of the Windsor knot that was supposed to escort it In fairness, it was really his younger brother, the Duke of Kent, who tirst popularized it Because ol the spread's inherently dressy and elegant bearing, it has become today s most important dress shirt collar. As...

Proportion And Body Type

Suit Coats For Men Patron

_t short or tall, portly or slim, most men aspire to look like some idealized version of themselves. Although the model male fashion figure has changed over time, for the past eight or so years the principal goal has been ro affect a rail, broad-shouldered, slim waisted appearance. Therefore, that archetypal physique will serve as a reference point for the principles that follow. The rules for downplaying girth or maximizing height can be helpful, but rhev should always be viewed as a guide...

Pcd

X dolphe Mcnjou was once asked w he the r lie thought the dinner jacket would endure I le replied, ol course it would, since this last vestige of upper-class dress was a svmbol ofgra cious living that paid tribute ro the lady on your arm as well ro the evening's host As the name suggests, the earl dinner jacket was exactly that, a less formal dining ensemble worn in the privacy of one's home or club. The original design w as created during the latter nineteenth century at the request of the...

The odd jacket

Action Back Shirred

He term odd lor a sport jacket was not occasioned only by its lack of a matching trouser the word also Fits because of the garment's individualized detailing. In 1926, the outstanding sport coat at Palm Beach was the solid tan gabardine sport coat. Ushering in the fancy-back jacket era, here's another of the Brothers Brooks' many contributions to permanent fashion, their classic pleated back gabardine sport jacket, with a stitched belt across the back w aistline and four pleats above and below...

Pinned Collars

Philip Miller

T one point during the 1930s, nearly half of all American men reportedly wore their dress shirt collars pinned. Today, it ould be surprising to find one man in a hundred so appointed Some men find the pinned collar fussy most men are simply intimidated by its obligatory rigging. Considered by many shirt savants to be the pinnacle of collared carriage, this is not neck trapping to hide behind. Unlike the cutaway or button down, the pinned collar s stylish ness rises or falls in relation to the...

Men Vest Back Strap

Trousers For Corpulent Figure Tailormade

Rugging the jacket's hip and pulling the rear vent s open Back vents should hang in a straight line perpendicular to the floor. The jacket sleeves should also hang straight, with no horizontal wrinkles or breaks forming on the upper arm. I fa man carries his arms either too much to the front or back ol the coat, the sleeves will not lie smoothly, and they should be removed and rotated accordingly A good tailor will recommend such an alteration and charge you for it . The jacket's sleeve should...

Classic Suit Models

Anthony Eden Three Button

Gary Cooper demonstrates the classic ru toning of a three-button suit with its center button closed. The three-button suit with its top two buttons closed. Gary Cooper demonstrates the classic ru toning of a three-button suit with its center button closed. 30TT0M Jean Cocteau shows the larger V opening of the two-button suit. The Single-Breasted Suit The single-breasted two-piece is the mainstay of most men's suit wardrobes. Early single-breasted suits were usually three-button, mostly with...

Classic Odd Trouser Models

Daks Trousers

Most men's dress slacks are made with belt loops. While trouser waistbands and belt loop dimensions are not immune to fashion, those accommodating belt widths ranging from 1V4 inches to 1V2 inches will always remain impervious to obsolescence. Along with the traditional plain- and pleated-front trouser models, several lesser-known odd slack models continue to curry favor with the better-slippered buck. Whether narrow or full cut, the following waistband treatments have maintained their fashion...

Prince Of Wales

Prince Charles Military

Inn the sparest outfit, while on others lie will not be able to get enough decoration. Regardless ol the approach, the ability to switch from one mode to another is an essential skill in any man's dressing arsenal. On the practical front, a dexterity for harmonizing patterned clothes can lend versatility to a wardrobe of modest means as well as increase the number o combinations when The historv ol patterned lashions and their rise to sartorial sophistication has its ori gins in the early...

Ml Xing Two Patterns Of The Same Design

Cary Grant Uniform

Larrowing the working canvas to the interaction of the suit, dress shirt, and necktie greatly simplifies the pattern-coordinating tutorial. The first step toward pattern-mixing prowess is learning how to mate two I ike-patterned garments, such as a striped tie with a striped dress shirt, or a checked necktie w ith a plaid suit. When combining two patterns of the same design, the size of each should be as dillercnt from the other as possible, otherwise the similarity will produce an optical...

Www.fashion Desigi

Sketches Mens Dress Shirts

Don't mate two two stripes that are similar in size. with each stripe also enhances the overall ease 011 the eye. Ever the style setter and ever comfortable with his clothes, Fred Astaire was certainly no stranger to shuffling around different patterns. I lere he chooses the perfect dance partner for his four-in-hand his Brooks button-downs closer-set stripe arrangement has no difficulty following the lead of the repp tie's I a rge r -s paced - s t ri pe desigi i. Alternatively, here's a lesson...

K

High Contrast Complexion

-JL coping in mind that the face is the destination to which ones attire should escort rhe beholder's attention, il too much or too little repartee occurs between it and the surrounding colors, the viewer's eye is diverted and one's personal presentation is weakened. Two color techniques must be learned if the male's communication center is to be assured ol optimal ani marion and influence. The first involves the relationship between the complexion and an out fit's level of contrast. The colors...

Praise For Dressing The

In Dressing the Man, Alan Flusser confirms that personal style is not about fashion and a rigid set of rules it's about inspiration, and developing an individual sense of what is elegant and wearable. Using some of the great style icons like Gary Grant and the Duke of Windsor. Flusser offers a guide to modern, classic dressing that succeeds on all fronts.

Permanent

Alan Flusser Dressing Gary

Male adornment has blossomed, in part, because of the cultural shift toward personal expression and individuality that took place in the latter third of the twentieth century. During the 1950s, the typical businessman literal hid behind his gray flannel suit. The eras political climate mandated fashion conservatism and uniformity In some circles, men who dared to dress differently were viewed with derision, as outsiders. Fortunately for mens fashion, the tradition-toppling sixties provided the...

Alan Flusser Clothing Pictures

Alan Flusser

Douglas Fairbanks jr. popularized it in the United States, and V Alan Flusser. as a designer and a writer, has celebrated this elegant dressing to the nines. I 've known Alan for twenty years, know him well enough to bet my favorite Flusser skull and-bones tie that when lie looks in a mirror he sees an image of Gary Grant, tie perfectly dimpled, proper amount of shirt cuff showing, suit draping just so. This wonderful book is a summation of everything Flusser knows about style, and if...