Men Vest Back Strap

P roportiox rugging the jacket's hip and pulling the rear vent(s) open Back vents should hang in a straight line perpendicular to the floor.

The jacket sleeves should also hang straight, with no horizontal wrinkles or breaks forming on the upper arm. I fa man carries his arms either too much to the front or back ol the coat, the sleeves will not lie smoothly, and they should be removed and rotated accordingly A good tailor will recommend such an alteration (and charge you for it). The jacket's sleeve should taper to the wrist bone, with a bottom opening measuring around six inches in diameter, or no larger than to frame the shirt's cult.

Most men wear their jacket sleeves too long, either because of recent fashions or their tailors lack of sophistication. As tor the correct length, a mans arms ought to be his guide. The jacket sleeve should extend to where the wrist breaks with the hand. If the arms are on the short side. Vz inch of shirt cuff can peep out below the coat sleeves; il longer, like Gary Cooper's. inch to I inch will give the arm a better proportion. I lie band of linen between sleeve and hand is one ol the details that define the sophisticated dresser.

Dressing the hand:

no less than a half-inch of shirt cuff should show below the jacket cuff. most men wear their coat sleeves too long.

60 dressing

THE M/l iV

Sleeves Too Long

Wa istcoat The fitting of any tailored waistcoat should be done with its back strap fastened-. The adjustable rear belt gives shape to the vest's waistline and discourages the vest from riding up the torso during the course of wear. The waistcoat's chest should be full enough to allow its wearer to sir comfortably with no hint of looseness at the waist. Only a small segment of waistcoat, revealing no more than the top button, should be visible above the jacket (see page 32).

The vest must be long enough to cover the trousers' waistband, stopping in iront before its points extend below the hipbone. A delicate balance must be forged between the trousers' waist and the depth of the vest's "V points: the whole edifice would crumble should it expose a patch ol shirt or belt buckle.

Suspenders are the recommended antidote for the gap that typically develops between suit trouser and vest. They raise the trousers' waistband so it remains covered by the vest, while bringing the trousers' pleats and vest's points into better harmony with each other. Vests and belts should choose different dance partners. A strip of leather encircling the stomach adds more bulk to an already layered waistline, and belted trousers also tend to slide down the hip. frequently revealing the undesirable presence of a belt buckle.

Top-quality waistcoats have slits on either side, the back vents extending below the front so as to keep the trousers' rear waistband from showing when its wearer bends forward. 1 ligh-class tailor-made waistcoats have slightly curved fronts, echoing the rounded shape of the single-breasted coat's fronts (see page is?) The vest's button stance is designed so that its bottom button is left undone, a custom dating back to the eighteenth century, when Ldward VII. a corpulent sovereign, forgot to button his alter an unusually vigorous repast, with the oversight ultimately taken and handed down as a style indicator.

TROUSERS When fitting trousers, the cardinal rule is to wear them as high 011 the waist as comfortable. 1 lip-positioned pants will make the crotch hang too low and look sloppy. Moreover. the curvature of the hip tends to spread pants pockets and pleats. Like the jacket's arm hole, the trousers' fork should lit as high as hospitable il it is to facilitate niON enient comfortably.

With pleated trousers, the hip and thigh must be cut full enough so that the pleats lie flat and do nor pull open when standing. The function of the pleat is to respond to the natural widening of the hip and seat when sitting dow n. If you are not prepared ro wear trousers with a more generous front, stick w ith the plain-front trouser. When one is standing, the trousers' front leg crease should bisect the kneecap and finish in the middle ol the shoe. Irouser creases should err toward the inside of the knee: those falling ro the outside create the illusion of breadth, something most men prefer to avoid.

If ir is ro be worn on occasion with suspenders, make sure the trouser is fitted with them, since suspendered trousers can change the fit of the waist, back rise, and inscam. Try rliem 011 in the standing, sitting, and legs-crossed positions. Trousers intended to be worn exclusively with suspenders should allow more room in t he waist so that they can "suspend" from the shoulders.

Today there are several schools of thought on the length ol a trouser. In the States, they are often worn ro rest with a slight break, or "shiver. 011 top of the shoe. In this case, they should be long enough ro cover the hose when a man is in stride, w ith a width that conceals the shoelaces. Plain-bottom trousers should slant downward from front to back so as to not fly away at the heel when rhe man is walking. If cuffed, their width should be neither so narrow nor so wide that ir calls at ten rion ro itself. For time-honored balance, the proper width of trouser cuffs should be 1 V% inches for a man under 5 feet, to inches, and 1 Va inches if taller.

Another approach is that of the Luropeansor. more specifically, the Milanese, who wear their trousers narrow cut and a little on the short side, even show ing some sock. In this case, the pants sir just lightly on the shoe. Signor Luciano Barbera. head of an Italian menswear company thar bears his name, calls it the "mid-Atlantic solution." since ir is halfway between Europe and America. Although lie doesn't want to see \ our socks, he does want to see your shoes.

on the v/aist. mot below.
Trousers For Corpulent Figure Tailormade

The trouser crease should intersect the middle of the knee and 3isect the middle of the shoe.

The trouser crease should intersect the middle of the knee and 3isect the middle of the shoe.

Cuffed bottoms should rest with a slight 8reak on top of the shoe.

Cuffed bottoms should rest with a slight 8reak on top of the shoe.

The mid-Atlantic solution.
Mid Atlantic Solution Pants

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  • Hilda
    How to fastened waistcoat back straps?
    8 years ago
    Do men wear their jackets open with a vest?
    8 years ago
  • demsas sayid
    How to wear the back strap of a vest?
    8 years ago
  • Oili It
    How to waistcoat back strap?
    8 years ago
  • furuta
    How long should a vest be?
    7 years ago

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