Pinned Collars

t one point during the 1930s, nearly half of all American men reportedly wore their dress shirt collars pinned. Today, it \\ ould be surprising to find one man in a hundred so appointed Some men find the pinned collar fussy: most men are simply intimidated by its obligatory rigging.

Considered by many shirt savants to be the pinnacle of collared carriage, this is not neck trapping to hide behind. Unlike the cutaway or button down, the pinned collar s stylish ness rises or falls in relation to the skill of its execution Wearing it with panache demands a lit tie practice, some manual dexterity, and a bit of patience.

Functioning much like the tab. the pinned collar raises the tie knot up 011 the neck, short ening the long neck. The straight points' vertically w ork to counterpoint the rounded or oval con toured head or chin. Back in their heyday in the thirties, straight-point collars were finished at between $ inches and y/i inches long, making them natural candidates for pinning up. The most common apparatus was a plain gold safety pin: next w as a sort of spring loaded slide mech anism: w hile the aficionado used a bar with shaped ends that unscrewed to lit through specially made collar eyelets The next step in such collar accou trement was to acquire one decorated with a sporting motif such as a golf club, polo mallet, or riding crop.

Follow ing the same principle of stylish neck rigging, the pinned club collar transports one quietly out of the ordinary I astening snugly beneath the tie knot, the rounded collar elevates the wearer's collar height, and its

Philip Miller

left:

Saks Fifth Avenue's former chairman, the ever elegant Philip B. Miller, donning his signature long-point collar secured by a simple gold safety pin.

Richard Merkin

IAJH&

Richard Merkin, pinned to perfection softer, rounder outline harmonizes particularly well w ith the square or angular jaw line. With no points to curl up. bend over, or go askew, the rounded pin collar remains trim and tid\ throughout the day. \rnst writer, and well-known New York toff Richard Merkin pins his collar to perfection (right).

Richard Merkin Fashion

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