Suit Jacket Detailing

Suit Jacket Pockets Early suit pockets were jotted, or flapless. In 1921 the Prince of Wales started yet another trend by reverting to flaps tor his suit coat's lower pockets. Although lie was not the first to wear them, his adoption sanctioned their vogue for his legions of follow ers. Regardless of their style or size, the jacket s side pockets (or the top edge of the flap) generally line up with the bottom button 011 the coats front.

Flapped pockets add a layer ol fabric to the jacket, therefore making it less sleek and dressy. This is why top-pedigreed tuxedo jackets feature jetted rather than flapped pockets. Better quality flap pockets are "double-besomed," a tailoring term for a narrow welted edge sewn above and below the pocket's slit opening. Not only is this the most expensive type of pocket flap construction, but also should the wearer decide to tuck his flaps inside the pockets, these two welts give the pocket a more finished appearance.

Alternatively, flap pockets are dressier than the sewn-on patched variety. As such, the open or flapped style ol patch pocket can usually be found astride the sportier two-piece or light-colored solid suit. Since patch pockets add another layer to the jacket's surface, they are con sidered t he most casual of the three classic suit pockets. Were a navy or dark pinstriped dress suit adorned w ith patch pockets, it would be frowned upon as a sartorial oxymoron. I leresa trio sported by the White I louses only president to do time in the menswear business, haberdasher I larry Truman.

The extra change pocket situated above the lower hip pocket, whether flapped or jetted, has always been a detail signifying a suit's custom tailored genesis. Mo\ ie stars such as Fred Astaire had many of their 011-camera suits made with them, thus introducing the ticket pocket to the male viewing public. As a rule of thumb, the flapped cash pocket diminishes a suit's dressiness, while the besom style heightens it. Years ago, if a customer wanted a cash pocket added to a ready-made suit, most better mens stores were equipped to accommodate him.

Jetted Pocket Suit


Side pockets line up with the bottom button on the coat'sfront. Sotice the pocket's D-tackfinishing.


Side pockets line up with the bottom button on the coat'sfront. Sotice the pocket's D-tackfinishing.


Patch pockets are considered the most casual of the three classic suit pockets.

Sketches Mens Dress Shirts

Suit Fabrics fall

Fabrics Suit
Navy Worsted Chalk S~n de

Medium-weight BiaCk-and-White Glenurouhart Plaid with Blue Overcheck

Unless indicated, all suitings are constructed with fine merino wool yarns and two ply fillings.

Egyptian Loin Skirt

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