The author is grateful to the editors of this collection for allowing the republication of this chapter. It originally appeared in Fashion Theory Volume 2 Issue 4 (1998). The response of students and staff from Kingston University to its arguments made an important contribution to its final form.

37. Harvey, John, Men in Black, London: Reaktion, 1995.

38. Taylor, Lou, "Men in Black", Journal of Design History, Vol. 9.4, 1996.

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