Fashion Design Drawing Course By Caroline Tatham Julian Seaman Copyrighted Marterial

Professional Fashion Design

Become a Professional Fashion Designer

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Principles, practice, and techniques:

the ultimate guide for the aspiring fashion artist

Caroline Tatham • Julian Seaman

BARRON'S

Fashion Illustration For DesignersSingapore Fashion Designers

Introduction How to use this book Assessing your work

6 10 11

FINDING INSPIRATION

ILLUSTRATING FASHION

Fashion Design Drawing Course

Inspiration file: Where to start 14

Unit 1 : Visiting a museum 16

Unit 2: Investigating architecture 20 Inspiration file:

Afresh look at the familiar 24

Unit 3: Mood boards 26

Unit 4: The traditions of India 30

Unit 5: Fine art and graphics 34 Inspiration file: Small details, big ideas 38

Unit 6: Designing fabric ideas 40

Unit 7: Starting with embroidery 44

Inspiration file:

The human body in proportion 50

Unit 8: An exercise in figure drawing 52

Inspiration file: Experiments with media 56

Unit 9: Drawing from life 58

Unit 10: Exploring collage 62

Unit 11: Drawing from your wardrobe 66

Unit 12: Not just pencil 70

Inspiration file: Laying out your page 74

Unit 13: Illustrating bold print 76

Fashion Design

PLANNING AND DESIGNING

Inspiration file:

Creating a cohesive collection 82

Unit 14: Learn to love your roughs 84

Unit 15: Planning a range 88

Inspiration file: Designing to a brief 92

Unit 16: Customer focus 94

Unit 17: Occasions, seasons, budgets 98

Inspiration file: Color and fabric 102

Unit 18: Color palettes 104

Unit 19: Structuring fabric 108

COMMUNICATING YOUR VISION

Inspiration file:

Clarity and communication 114

Unit 20: Working drawings 116 Unit 21: Real garments for your portfolio 120 Inspiration file:

Presenting your work 124

Unit 22: Practicalities of presentation 126

Unit 23: Choosing a presentation style 130

Unit 24: Presenting with flair 134

A QUARTO BOOK

First edition for the United States, its territories and dependencies and Canada, published in 2003 by Barron's Educational Series, Inc.

All inquiries should be addressed to: Barron's Educational Series, Inc. 250 Wireless Boulevard Hauppauge, New York 11788 http://www.barronseduc.com

Copyright © 2003 Quarto Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, by photostat, microfilm, xerography, or any other means, or incorporated into any information retrieval system, electronic or mechanical, without the written permission of the copyright owner.

ISBN-13: 978-0-7641 -2473-0 ISBN-10: 0-7641-2473-0

Library of Congress Catalog Card No. 2002115978

QUAR.FDDC

Conceived, designed, and produced by Quarto Publishing pic The Old Brewery 6 Blundell Street London N7 9BH

Project Editor: Fiona Robertson

Senior Art Editor: Sally Bond

Designer: Julie Francis

Photographers: Colin Bowling, Paul Forrester

Text Editor: Jan Cutler

Proofreader: Anne Plume

Indexer: Pamela Ellis

Art Director: Moira Clinch Publisher: Piers Spence

Manufactured by Pica Digital PTE Ltd., Singapore

Printed in China by

Midas Printing International Ltd.

Fashion resources 138

Glossary 141

Index 142

Credits 144

Moira Clinch ArtFashion Inspired Nature Drawings

< Borrowing inspiration

You can borrow motifs from paintings to create print patterns—these prints are Inspired by the work of Duty.

Moira Clinch Art

Use your sketchbook to explore your first ideas about a design. Don't be too critical of your roughs—just let the ideas flow and you will be surprised at the vitality of the work you produce.

Fashion is, by its very nature, an ever-changing art. ) Oscar Wilde remarked that "Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months," but It is this continual evolution,' the constant reinvention of old trends and the creation of new ones.^hat lends the fashion industry its excitement ancTglamor.

Fashion Design Drawing Course is aimed at aspiring fashion "designers aTTd illustrators/and -anyone with an interest in the fascinating world of style. The book is modeled around the fashion courses offered by colleges and universities, with twenty-four units each containing a project to lead you step by step through the process of Illustrating terrific designs. You don't need to know all about the big fashion names to take this course, nor do you need to be a genius with a paintbrush or sewing machine. The aim of this book is to unravel the mystique surrounding fashion, and to show how designs can be created through a systematic process of research and development, and the use of a range of illustration techniques. All you need to begin is enthusiasm and a willingness to express your own unique view of the world.

► No experience required

You don't need to be a sewing expert to create great fashion designs. You can explore the behavior of a made-up garment simply by draping fabric around a dressmaker's stand, and then incorporate ideas about pleating and gathering Into your illustrations.

In the first chapter, "Finding inspiration," you will learn that creating a design is not a mystical affair but simply about researching, developing, and reinventing an inspiring theme. If you look at your surroundings through the eyes of a designer, you will see that inspiration is everywhere—museums, art galleries, the seashore, the city streets, even your familiar home and garden can provide you with raw material. This chapter will show you how to identify and research a source of inspiration, and how to use inspiration to guide your designs, through the use of mood boards for example. It will also give

< Borrowing inspiration

You can borrow motifs from paintings to create print patterns—these prints are Inspired by the work of Duty.

Capturing the mood ►

A free representation of a figure can capture a pose just as well as a very detailed one. You don't need

Figure Drawing For Fashion Design

some suggestions about how to put your own special spin on an idea, perhaps by enlarging scale to explore the unseen details of an ordinary object, or by bringing the patterns and shapes of a painting or a building into a new context, or by using your source to inspire a fabric design that will be the focus of the garment.

Once you have developed some great design ideas you need to be able to represent them on the page. The second chapter, "Illustrating fashion," will give you the confidence to expand your drawing technique to include methods such as collage and mixed media. A mistake students often make is to believe they must develop a personal drawing style early on, and then stick to it. This book encourages plenty of experimentation—if you keep pushing the boundaries, your ideas will always be fresh. Experiments don't always work, of course, but you must have the courage to fail—this is part of the learning process.

One important point to keep In mind while working through this course is that the final aim of any fashion

4 Design flavor

These presentations of garment designs reflect their Arctic source in aspects such as the Inuit-styie figures and the snowflake knit pattern. Developing designs from one source produces distinctive work.

design is to produce a real garment that can be worn on a real human body. An article of clothing drawn on a figure that is wildly out of proportion will lack authority because no one will be able to imagine actually wearing it. The second chapter therefore explains an easy paper-folding method that an inexperienced designer can use as a guide for creating fashion figures. During this part of the course you will learn to observe carefully and to hone your representational skills, as you practice drawing people and

Capturing the mood ►

A free representation of a figure can capture a pose just as well as a very detailed one. You don't need

▼ Having confidence

Learning how to fill the page boldly is an Important aspect of becoming a fashion designer. When you show confidence In your designs you will be well on the way to convincing tutors, clients, and employers to have faith in them too.

garments from life. You will also learn how to be bold in your designs, filling each page with drawings that show conviction.

The third chapter, "Planning and designing," takes your design work into the wider context of the fashion industry. Being a successful designer is not about producing flamboyant one-off pieces but about developing your inspiration into a cohesive range of designs that share a strong look while offering as much choice to the customer as possible. This chapter will teach you how to work to a brief, to take into account considerations such as budget and seasonal requirements, and to build a collection aimed at a target customer whose tastes you might well not share yourself.

The final chapter, "Communicating your vision," looks at how all these wonderful ideas can be best shown off to colleagues, tutors, employers, and clients. When it comes to presenting your concepts, remember that clarity is key—there is no point in

T Going wild

Designers need to be practical in focusing their work on a target customer, but sometimes it's good to let yourself go wild—this Hussein Chalayan skirt was designed around a coffee table.

Chalayan SkirtHussein Chalayan Coffee Table

T ► Communicating your ideas

Present your designs in an appropriate style: these jewel-like illustrations capture perfectly the sophistication of the garments. If you are studying at college, you could even take your presentation a step further by photographing your designs at the end-of-year fashion show.

Fashion Design Idea Drawings

▼ Focusing on fabrics

Sometimes a fabric idea that you have developed will be the focal point of the garment. An uncomplicated silhouette shows off a complex textile to best effect.

▼ Focusing on fabrics

Sometimes a fabric idea that you have developed will be the focal point of the garment. An uncomplicated silhouette shows off a complex textile to best effect.

► Maximum impact

You should try to present your designs with maximum creative impact. This dress was inspired by film and theater posters from the 1940s, and the concept is reflected not only in the dress itself but also in aspects such as the dancing pose of the figure and the spotlight effect created by spray paint used in the background.

T Competitive business

Recently graduated fashion students have to vigorously promote their designs at shows in the hope that one of these events will catapult them to catwalk stardom.

How Draw Flats For Fashion

creating superb designs if no one can understand the illustrations. This chapter explains how to support your creative Illustrations with flat working drawings and how to build a professional-looking presentation board. It also shows how every aspect of the presentation—from the style of drawing to the poses of the figures—can work together to communicate your vision with maximum impact.

Working through Fashion Design Drawing Course will give you the tools you need to create and illustrate designs, as well as the confidence to set off on your career as a fashion designer. Your most important assets are an open mind and a pair of fresh eyes; and remember, as you venture into this highly competitive yet rewarding business, that fashion design should above all be fun.

The inspiration file gives an overview of the topic of finding inspiration.

Where to start

Fashion Designers Sketches Step StepFashion Design Drawing Course Fashion Designers Sketchbooks

"The process" provides a step-by-step guide to completing the project.

Pages from designers' sketchbooks show how ideas are developed.

Final illustrations by other designers suggest ways in which you could have approached the project.

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