Finishings And Trimmings

Becoming a Professional Fashion Designer

Become a Professional Fashion Designer

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Drawing Pattern Fashion Design

Technically by elements of finishing we understand all of those features that characterize the pattern (pleats, flounces, crimping, drapes, necks, pockets). By trimmings we understand the individualization of particular features and accessories which make the item of clothing distinctive and elegant (buttonings, lapel facings, seams, buttons, appliqués, etc.).

In the following pages various types of patterns of finishings and trimmings both basic and sophisticated are shown,

The examples are presented in technical diagrams that are very clear and easily used for creating any sophisticated pattern.

Once you have assimilated the concepts that govern portrayal, you will be able to visualize what is necessary, emphasizing either the item of clothing or the details with the correct graphic technique.

Always define your patterns precisely with the correct technical terminology,

A novice fashion designer will have a little difficulty in arranging the various elements of finishing in a harmonious whole. Normally the tendency is to simplify the item of clothing, reducing it to something simple and basic or to exaggerate the dimensions and the details, thinking that the more complicated an item of clothing is the better the final result will be. Nothing could be further from the truth,

Years of application and work are necessary in the attempt to understand the essence of the design, to deepen the meaning of style and to understand the creations of the greatest stylists of today and of the past, Therefore moderation, taste and a great deal of study should be your companions in this wonderful world of fashion.


Flat pleats





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TUbiform accordion pleats

TUbiform accordion pleats

Plissé pleat



Box accordion pleat

Movement pleats in persp.

Movement pleats in persp.

Pleats Flat DrawingFunction Accordion Pleats
Flat pleats

1 i 1

A - Background pleat. BC - Strips of fabric which when folded opposite each other create a pleat behind. D - Depth of the pleat.

Accordion pleats

Pleats have the function of collecting the fabric around the body in modular geometrical patterns and are also used as trimming on a garment.

They are formed by one line of a fold, one of depth and one of support (A-B-C-D).

There are various types of pleats, and depending on their application, pleasing and variegated effects can be obtained.

They can be set at quite a distance, plissé, pressed or left loose, backstitched or with the inside made up of another fabric.

The best effect for pleats in dressmaking is that created by pleats which follow a straight line, because they follow the texture of the fabric.

A - Background pleat. BC - Strips of fabric which when folded opposite each other create a pleat behind. D - Depth of the pleat.

frills and flounces

Flounces For SketchingFlat Sketch Box Pleats

Double frill, flounce with crest

Mirror flounce with box pleats and waistband, double flounce

Frills and flounces, like pleats, have the function of collecting the fabric in decorative motifs, conferring more femininity and sweetening the cut. They are motifs suitable for a romantic and sophisticated style.

Gathers Draping


Circular flounce


\ \ \ \ y / /1 The circular flounce is much used around the neck, over-

\ \ \ y / I laid with gentle fabrics it becomes very charming and

\ \--^y / Gathers underline the figure in a striking and decorative

N/V. —way. Technically they are small parallel crimps: it is better

^-to use an elasticated fabric to make them.

Draping is the form assumed by a fabric when it is draped upon the body. Due to its pliant nature, it caresses the figure providing a sensual accompaniment to the movements of the person who wears it in a choreography of seductive rhythms.


Open zip, with backstitching, covered, casual for coats, concealed and elegant


Elegant cuffs: Edged with frills, with cuff links, with layered fringes

Stitched cuffs: Rib stitched, stitched with cuff, stitchcd joining the sleeve, stitched turned back

Polo Zip Flat DrawingDrafting Lapeled Collar

Left to right: Basic, neckhole, flat collar

Left to right: Mandarin, classic, classic 1970s shirt collars

Drafting And Cutting Flat CollarsBasic Tailored Shirt Flat Drawing


Left to right: Tailored, turtlencck, polo-neck

Tailored Shirt Flat Drawing

Left to right: 5hawl, V-shaped, high ribbed with buttons

Basic Tailored Shirt Flat DrawingPolo Style With Triangular Insert

Left to right: Polo style with triangular insert, high cross-wound, funnel-shaped

Left to right: Bomber, cross-wound, cardigan

Polo Style With Triangular InsertDrawings Elegant Crosses

Left to right: Lace-up, double cambered, with flood


Three-quarters Profile

Heart Shaped Ribs Drawing

Flat collar

Classic Figure Drawings

Classic collar

Classic Fashion Design Figure DrawingsCollar Drafting

This schema is useful for drawing any kind of collar that you can think of.

By changing the height and width you will also be able to visualize the most unusual collars.


Basic, tailored, on the shoulder, V-shaped, asymmetrical

Decollete NecklineFashion Figure Shoulder Drawings

Basic, tailored, on the shoulder, V-shaped, asymmetrical

Square, square and singlet, rounded, on the shoulder with oval slit, heart-shaped

American-style, asymmetrical, balcony, square, plunge

Types Hem FinishingsHeart Puff Square Pattern
V-shaped, overlapping, sophisticated, plunge
Sketch Revere Collar FashionTypes Collar Funnel Collar Drawing


Heart Puff Square PatternFlounces For SketchingHeart Puff Square PatternTechnical Drawing PlisseHeart Puff Square PatternHeart Puff Square PatternCardigan Technical Drawing8714 195 Gathers DrapingFashionstylization FiguresTypes Sleeves

PATTERN SCHEMAS types of basic sleeves

Pattern Schemas Types Basic Sleeves

Filled, broader fitting, fitted with crimping

Puff Sleeve Flat Drawing

T-shaped, puff sleeve with cuff, Raglan

Spec Drawing RaglanStraight Skirt Technical Drawing

Hammer, flared Raglan, kimono


Technical diagrams for obtaining pleats and flares.

Basic skirt:

1 - Flared

2 - 1/4 bias-cut circular

3 - 1/3 bias-cut circular

4 - Full bias-cut circular

Circular Skirt Variation

A - Basic miniskirt B - Knee length C-Midi D - Full-length

Technical Drawing Skirt Knife Pleats


Basic Skirts With Yoke Gathers And Flare

Close-fitting, straight, wrapover, flared, wrapover with yolk and pleats

Half bias-cut circular, puff, puff with fitted hem, plisse pleats

Sketch Skirt With Tiered Flounces

Tiered frills, tiered flounces, asymmetrical with flounces, straight with large pleat and accordion pleat

Half bias-cut circular with yolk, full bias-cut circular with yolk, full bias-cut circular with waist crimping, flared with inserts

Technical Drawing Type Trouse

Simple and elegant poses underline the cut and the details of the pattern.


Types TrousersTypes Hem Finishings

Tlicks asid pleat, jodhpurs, pantaloons

Hipsters, bell-bottom, Oriental

Drawing Dummy PosesTucks And PleatsGarments That Use Pleats TucksTechnical Drawing Skirts


Symbol Dressmaker

Above is seen a dressmaker's dummy from the four basic perspectives.

To mould the bodice or the costume around the body it is necessary to use tucks which reduce the fabric where it is at its roomiest and where the body is rounded, underlining the shape.

The First figure shows the basic bodice with the application of rotated tucks, both on the upper body and the pelvis. To bring an item of clothing closer to the body, more tucks which slope down from the top as far as the flank and from the shoulder-blade to the flank can be used. The tucks can be visible as in the basic version, inserted in the lengths of material or absorbed in the looseness of the design to confer more softness and linearity on the item of clothing.


Tucks Clothing


Pelvis Simplified DrawingRenaissance Shirt Template
I.rye shirt, Mandarin, romantic
Sketching For Tucks


Drawing Tucks Garments

Models wearing the designs on previous pages. The poses are simple and suitable for the interpretation of the pattern

Creases have been kept to a minimum and the outlines of the pattern are emphasized in the drawing.

Romantic Drawing Poses


Drawing Basic Dresses


Coat Technical Drawing
Bomber Jacket Technical SketchSpec Drawings Duffle CoatRaincoats Patterns DrawingsFinishings And Trimming

Bomber, denim backstitched

Denim Sketch

denim casual jacket. The simple and neat drawing style emphasizes the cut and the backstitches.



Bomber, denim backstitched

Casual with zips

The model assumes a decisive and youthful pose like the fashion that she is modelling. The arms spread wide emphasize the fitted sleeves and [he fullness of the denim casual jacket. The simple and neat drawing style emphasizes the cut and the backstitches.


Double Breasted Coat Technical DrawingFigure Drawing Model

Casual with zipt

Finishings And Trimming

The model assumes i and youthful pose like that she is modelling. Ti spread wide emphasize L sleeves and the fullness ot

The model on the opposite page is moving to stress the fullness of the cape, which is also accentuated by the raised arm.


Fitted Jacket Drawing

Double-breasted with lapels Flared with partial doubling

Close-fitting jackets with variations in cuts, finishing and trim mings.

Lapel Jacket Technical Sketch

Casual lighL coats and jackets sharing the same basic form, but varied in cuts and finishing and trimmings.

Plain coat with padded shoulders, coat with zip and hood, coat with casing

Padde DrawingCasual Figure DrawingFlat Drawings Bomber Jacket

Padded bomber jacket, quilted coat, quilted bomber jacket

7/Sths length coat, coat with double fastening and variation in pockets, coat with zip and double pockets and inside pocket

FOOTWEAR various styles and fashions

Collar Types

It is important to personalize a fashion plate with accessories which are suitable to identify a style or to play down an image that is too serious.

In these pages you will find many examples of footwear of various types which are suitable for the most varied fashions. The footwear is shown from a variety of perspectives.

I ll

Fashion plates are the primary means of visualising ideas and concepts in costume and fashion design. To give an accurate impression of what is in a designer's mind it is vital to have complete mastery of the rules of figure drawing. Here, realism and anatomical precision are the chief values, whereas for costume and fashion, stylization and exaggeration are ways of adding individuality and verve to a plate, and of focusing attention on specific elements.

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