Rib and Basket Weave

Changing the size or number of certain filling and/or warp yarns allows the creation of other variations of the plain weave. When several yarns are grouped together or larger yarns are used, a straight raised ridge called a rib or cord is formed. Poplin is a cotton or polyester fabric with very tiny ribs in the filling direction. This added thickness makes the cloth very crisp. Taffeta and faille, made of silk or a synthetic material such as acetate, are crisp fabrics with a slightly larger rib. Taffeta is often used to make ball gowns because the ribs make an elegant swishing sound when the fabric rubs together. Gros-grain ribbon is another fancy material with ridges in the filling direction. Bedford cord is a heavy fabric made as a lengthwise ribbed weave that resembles corduroy and is used for pants. Rip-stop nylon is a very strong fabric with noticeable ribs in both the filling and the warp direction. In this case, the ribs help prevent the fabric from tearing. Rip-stop is often used for sports gear such as windbreakers and athletic shoes.

Basket weave fabrics are made by having one or more filling yarns go over, under, over, ... more than one warp yarn at a time. This can be used to create a fabric that has a better drape and luster than standard plain weave, but the exposed yarns are more likely to be snagged. Oxford cloth, a popular fabric for men's dress shirts, is a basket weave that has one filling yarn going under and over two warp yarns at a time. Heavier basket weaves, such as canvas and sailcloth, have been used for shoes and outdoor clothing such as jackets and overalls for construction workers, sailors, and hunters. Monk's cloth, a very soft basket weave fabric that is easily damaged, has four yarns running together in both the filling and the warp direction.

See also Batik; Calico; Chintz; Crinoline; Dyeing, Resist;

Ikat; Muslin; Silk; Tartan; Tweed; Weave, Double;

Weave, Satin; Weave, Twill; Weave Types; Weaving;

Yarns.

Plain Weave

Plain Weave

Rib Weaves Structure
= warp thread going over a filling thread

| = warp thread going under a filling thread

Plain weave. The most basic structure for producing cloth, the plain weave technique is known to have been in use as long ago as the Late Stone Age.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Encyclopedia of Textiles. 3rd ed. Englewood Cliffs, N.J.: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1980.

Kadolph, Sara J., and Anna L. Langford. Textiles. 9th ed. Upper Saddle River, N.J.: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 2001.

Tortora, Phyllis G., and Robert S. Merkel, eds. Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles. 7th ed. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1996.

Heather Marie Akou

WEAVE, SATIN Along with plain and twill weave, satin is one of three basic weave structures that have been in use since ancient times. Associated with luxury, romance, and sensuousness, satin and sateen fabrics are made of fine silk and cotton yarns as well as manufactured fibers such as rayon, acetate, and polyester. Satin weaves have a smooth, lustrous surface and possess the best draping qualities out of all the weave structures. The pattern of a satin weave is similar to a twill, but the floats (yarns that go over multiple warp or filling yarns before they dip under the surface) are very long—covering up to eleven other yarns. Satin must be woven on a loom with at least six (and more commonly eight) harnesses. Instead of having diagonal lines, the floats are usually staggered to make the surface look as smooth and seamless as possible. This property is enhanced by packing the floats very close

Satin Weave

I

m

I

I

m

= warp thread going over a filling thread

1

= warp thread going under a filling thread

Satin weave. The staggered floats in the satin weave help to create a seemingly smooth surface, with a structure that can be difficult to see even under magnification.

Satin weave. The staggered floats in the satin weave help to create a seemingly smooth surface, with a structure that can be difficult to see even under magnification.

together. Even under magnification, it can be difficult to see the structure of a very tight satin weave.

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