Oxford Shirts

Design Shaped For Oxford Shirt


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1—4. Four ideas for pockets centred over vertical seams. 5—8. Variations of plackets with pleated yoke sections. 9. Stripe placket section. 10. Deep rounded cuff. 11. Placket incorporated into seam.

oxford shirts



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1. Tab on pocket buttons onto yoke. 2. Pen tab extends from centre front and buttons onto pocket 3. Pocket partially concealed by yoke. 4. Pocket is seam. Contrast patches. 5—8. Front -plackets with two styles. 9—12. Button ideas in metal and wood.

Fancy Piping Yoke SeamFancy Piping Yoke SeamOxford Shirt

poplin shirts

1—3. Fancy shirt plackets. 4—6. Fancy stitching on pocket tops. 7. Pleated cuff placket 8. Top-stitched cuff. 9. Stripe on placket cut in different directions. 10. Buttoned tab at top of placket

Fancy Piping Yoke SeamInverted Pleat Fly Placket

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Inverted Pleat Fly PlacketInverted Pleat Fly Placket Bartack Detail

1. Bartacks on fly front 2. Button and loop held by bartack. 3. Half fly front 4. Tucks either side of placket 5. Contrast strip on shirt front extends onto pocket flap. 6. Striped piping inset into seam. Contrast behind inverted pleat on pocket 7— 9. Placket and cuff variations.

Pleat Variations

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1. Large tab inside shirt 2. Stitchline around buttonhole. 3. Striped binding at inside neck. 4. Embroidery on placket 5. Cutaway section on placket 6. Contrast facing of shirt placket 7. Contrast under-plaeket and half concealed buttons. 8. Close up of fly detail on placket 9—11. Braid trimmings on cuffs and plackets.

Inverted Pleat Fly Placket

I. The bar is constructed from striped ribbon. 2. Contrast sections applied onto collar and placket 3. Contrast collar sections. 4. Self-coloured, embroidered motif. 5 + 6. Elaborate yoke sections. 7. Zig-zag edging on yoke. 8. Pleat is held down by elaborate stitching. 9. Contrast section is concealed on placket 10. Zig-zag stitching on placket

II. Striped placket

Placket Drawing

1. Top-stitched band at yoke.

2. Bartacks either side of centre front hold down inside facing. 3—6. Variations of diagonal breast pockets. 7. Contrast gusset at neck. 8. Pleats held down by wide bartacks.

200mm Breast WideCentre Front Placket Shirt DetailingShirt Below Breast

1. Zip fly front 2. Zip teeth extend down collar point 3. Wide stitching on collar and placket 4. Buttoned tab concealed under collar. 5. Asymmetric shirt front extends to button under collar. 6. Stitching between each button. 7. Double buttons. 8. Stitching emphasises button-down collar. 9. Decorative top-stitching. Printed stars on back inside collar.

casual shirts

Asymmetric Detail Shirt

1. Asymmetric satin stitching on shirt front 2. Ruched front section which extends to button under collar. 3. Zip front shirt 4. Complex front shirt fastening — zip fly section above normal button front 5. Extended shirt front buttons under collar. 6. Heavily top-stitched, sectioned shirt 7. Top-stitched elbow patch.

Button Collar Shirt Layout TemplateShirt Collar Variation

1. Crab motif can either be printed or embroidered onto shirt front 2. Padded coliar and yoke for added warmth. 3—5. Padded collars. Shirt front variations. 6 + 7. Ideas for contrast back pleats. 8. Cross stitch holds back panel at yoke. 9. Large label attached below yoke.

Disappearing Nine Patch VariationsVariation Shirt Collar

1. Stitched collar. Stitched through bib. 2. Small collar. 3. Plain edging on collar and shirt front 4. Double breasted front Zig-zag under collar. 5. Tie tab at yoke. 6+7. Stitching ideas hold down pleats. 8—11. Square patch pocket variations.

Shirt Pocket Variations

1. Print under collar. 2. Print collar stand. Tab below yoke for key ring. 3. Print undercollar. Label attached between placket and pocket 4. Complex double pocket 5. Zip pocket in seam. 6. Tucked welt pocket below seam. 7. Label attached onto top-stitched pocket 8 + 9. Side shirt tail ideas. 10+11. Partial fly fronts shown at the lower edge.

Martel Shirt

Military Shirts

Military Shirt TuckTypes Shirt PocketsShirts Pocket Drawing

1 —4. Complex back sections are emphasised by top-stitching. 5. Loop and button attaches pocket to shirt 6. Bartacks at lower pocket edge. 7. Rounded bellows pocket 8. Stitched through pocket bag. 9—11. Back pleat variations.

1. Treble stitching. Eyelet under the arm. 2. Contrast underarm section. 3. Epaulette passes through loop. 4 + 5. Collar point variations. Large military labels on back yoke. 6—9. Cuff and placket ideas.

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Oxford Shirt Sketch Patterns

1. Front tuck is buttoned. 2. Shoulder tab set inside patch on shoulder. 3. Cross of stitching on shoulder and pocket flap. 4. Tab on shoulder tucks under loop and back onto itself. 5. Cross CO of stitching and pointed end on front shirt placket 6. ' Wide facing stitched through one side. 7. Half concealed front placket 8. _

Exposed top button on fly fronted shirt Bartacks hold m down pleat 9. Stitchlines hold down tucks at cuff. 10. CO Multi-buttoned cuff and. placket 11. Fancy placket i

Placket Sketch

I. Needlecord coilarstand and inside placket 2. Check collar stand and inside yoke. 3. Brushed yoke which is quilted on inside. 4. Label attached by 4 bartacks. 5—7. Complex pockets and stud fastenings. 8. Rib storm cuff. 9. Button over cuff so buttons are concealed. 10. Rib cuff. Contrast triangle.

II. Back section of cuff is ribbed.

Cuffs Rib With Button HoleMartel Shirt

1+2. Top collar, yoke and pocket flaps are in contrast 3. Angled pocket below seam. 4+5. Pockets incorporated into yoke seams. 6. Contrast cuff. 7. Contrast gusset 8. Wide contrast patch. Bartacks hold down tucks. 9. Wide puckered placket


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Gusset Style Placket

pockets and hems

1+2. Pockets reveal patterned facings. 3. Pocket ideas. 4. Decorative flap over tucked pocket 5. Satin edge flap. 6. Double button feature. 7. Satin pocket top and loop concealed by flap. 8. Half fly front partially conceals buttons. 9—11. Variations on side gussets and slits.

Contrast Shirt Pocket Flap

1. Wide pen pocket 2. Contrast tape is applied on top of the pocket flap. 3. Piped pocket edge. 4. Small contrast section partially concealed under pocket 5. Pen pocket runs into side seam. 6. Pen holder idea. 7. Small pocket inside shaped pocket, which has elaborate stitchline. 8. Contrast reinforcement at side shirt

9. Long bar tack holds triangular patch at side hem.

10. Shaped shirt tails at side shirt 10. Contrast binding at hem.

Elbow Patch Shirt Sketch

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Tails And Plain FigureSheild With Diagonal StripesBinding Neck

1. Fine plain binding at neck.

2. Embroidered motif and shield applied on top of diagonal stripe. 3. Action figure embroidered onto pocket at centre front 5—7. Side slit variations. 8. Rib inset at side. 9. Contrast stripe laid over printed stripes. 10. Different width stripes on placket 11. Pocket at side hem.


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1. V neck double stitched into place. 3. Tucked front held in place by stitching. 3. Large zip exposed. 4. Narrow rib edging. Button and loop at neck. 5. Zip up side slit. Label attached above. 6. Side slit emphasised by stitching. 7. Side slit can be buttoned up. 8—11. Variations on rib and gusset hemlines.



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Shirt Placket Draw

1. Wide short placket. Rivet secures lower edge. 2. Exposed zip. Rivets reinforce patch. 3. Fine rib polo-neck. 4. Tuck and loop below wide placket 4. Narrow ribbed yoke and collar. 5. Flatlocked seam.

Embroidered motif follows curved line of yoke. 6. Contrast yoke and raglan sleeves. 7. Label attached below neckline. 8—11. Neckline variations.

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1. Wide box of stitching secures front opening. 2. Contrast collar. 3. Contrast collar, front edge and patch. 4. Printed wide diagonal stripe. 5. Printed panel below yoke. 6. Edge stitched yoke seam. 7. Lightweight drawstring hood attached inside neckline. 8. Shield attached to collar. 9. Piped raglan sleeve. 10. Placket has fine rib edging. 11. Printed motif on centred stripe.

Patch GussetMartel Shirt

1. Printed motif on high yoke. 2. Embroidered label incorporated into front section. 3. Ribbed gusset 4. Striped gusset. 5. Pointed logo on gusset 64-7. Elaborate gussets with airholes.

Shirts GussetCorner Rib Gusset Contrast Facing Shirts

1. Tag inset into shoulder seam. 2. Striped rib inset 3. Contrast follows line of armhole. Rib sleeves. 4. Rib gusset 5. Triangular label set into sleeve seam. 6. Deep flatlocked underarm panel.

7. Stripe section and embroidered logo on gusset

8. Contrast patch under the armhole.

Oxford Shirt Tag

I. Label attached to pocket top. 2 + 3. Fine rib welts with loop and button fastenings. 4. Bellows pocket with contrast inset 5. Pocket set into seam. 6. Rib pocket top has label in corner. 7. Zip between rib welts. 8. Embroidered initial on zip pocket 9 + 10. Sporty motifs on or above patch pockets.

II. Patch pocket set between 2 seams.

Square Patch PocketSingle Jet Pocket

1. Zip pocket Stitched through bag. 2. Jet pocket of different widths. 3. Ribbed zip pocket Decorative stitching. 4. Shaped rib welt with rivets either side. 5 + 6. Contrast yoke and pockets. 7 + 8. More variations on contrast pockets. 9. Angled rib welt 10. Faced zip pocket 11. Pocket set into vertical piped seam.

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100 Fashion Tips

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