Fashioning the Feminine

REPRESENTATION AND WOMEN'S FASHION FROM THE FIN DE SIECLE TO THE PRESENT Published in 2002 by I.B.Tauris & Co Ltd 6 Salem Road, London W2 4BU 175 Fifth Avenue, New York NY 10010 www.ibtauris.com In the United States and Canada distributed by St. Martin's Press 175 Fifth Avenue, New York NY 10010 Copyright Cheryl Buckley and Hilary Fawcett, 2002 All rights reserved. Except for brief quotations in a review, this book, or any part thereof, may not be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a...

Contents

Fashioning the Feminine Fashion, Gender and Representation 1 2 Fashion, Sexuality and Representation at the Fin de Si cle 16 3 'Dehumanised Females and Amazonians' Fashion, Women's Magazines and the Female Body During the Great War, 1914-18 50 4 Re-imagining the Feminine Fashion, Modernity and Identity in 5 'Doon the Toon' Young Women, Fashion and Sexuality 122 Select Bibliography 150 Index 154 For our children Leo, Kate, Tom and Anna

Fin de Sicle

Would you like to sin with Elinor Glyn On a tiger skin This chapter examines the relationship between femininity, fashion and fashion imageries in Britain between 1890 and 1910. The period has been described as a 'battlefield of representation',1 marked as it is on one side by an acceleration in the progress of feminism and its attendant imageries, and on the other by representations of extravagant femininity in the highly decorative and seductive arena of high fashion. The monumentality of the...

Acknowledgements

We would like to thank all the people and organisations who have helped with the preparation of this book. Almost everyone that we have encountered in libraries, museums, local authorities and private companies have given their practical help without question. There are several women who gave us their time talking about their lives and recounting the clothes that they bought, made and wore without their stories we could not have attempted to go beyond the abstract to examine the specific. There...

I6

This chapter attempts to re-evaluate the period in relation to women and fashion, and the way in which it pre-empts modernity. Much writing on the period has been dominated by debates concerning the issues of corseting and tight lacing and the role of the oppositional dress reform movement in countering what was considered to be restrictive and unhealthy dress for women. Although these issues are of considerable significance, this chapter will concentrate on other aspects of the subject. Its...

List of Illustrations

Figure 2.1 Advertisement for the Marvel Fringe. Lady's Pictorial, Figure 2.2 Miss Marie Studholme, Miss Gabrielle Ray, Miss Zena Dare. Postcard. London. Own collection. 21 Figure 2.3 Miss Vesta Tilley, actress. Postcard. London. Own collection. 27 Figure 2.4 Miss Vesta Tilley, actress. Postcard. London. Own collection. 27 Figure 2.5 Miss Marie Studholme, actress. Postcard. James Bacon and Sons, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Own collection. 35 Figure 2.6 Isaac Snowman, painting. Windsor Magazine, 10 June...

Fashioning the Feminine Fashion Gender and Representation

This book has taken rather longer to write than we anticipated. It has been worked on intensely and it has been set aside, depending on the time and space that we have or have not found. It has been slowed down by the usual things in women's lives busy jobs, dealing with young children and grownup ones, and coping with illness. Our original aims, written at the beginning of the last decade, seem rather grand now at the start of a new millennium. We planned a broad survey of fashion in Britain...

Notes On Chapter

1 A term used by Carolyn Steadman in her essay 'Landscape For a Good Woman', published in Liz Heron ed. , Truth, Dare or Promise Girls Growing Up in the 50s London, Virago, 1985 , pp.103 26. 2 Elizabeth Wilson, Adorned in Dreams Fashion and Modernity London, Virago, 1985 , p.12. Angela McRobbie has written extensively on fashion. Recent work includes British Fashion Design Rag Trade or Image Industry London, Routledge, 1998 . 3 Juliet Ash and Elizabeth Wilson eds , Chic Thrills A Fashion Reader...